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custom steering pics

txredxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
PerrytonTX
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I'll give the drag link until the first pot hole.

Those bends in it, even with the gussets(?), are scary looking. My eyes aren't really good enought to see the rest, but I don't really want to look anyway.
 
i'm a sucker for clean lines and neat looking work that my friend is far from it. depending on your welds and strength of gussets it may hold but it looks like hell. take the time to redesign it please.
 
whats wrong with it? the bends are so the tie rod ends are at a semi neutal angle to prevent binding. all of it was welded with 45 wire pulse and the tubing is 1 inch 1/4 wall dom tig welded with a stainless filler. the steering drag link is 2 degrees from parelell with the track bar. the gussets are stainless 1/4 plate. what else is there to do? i didnt grind the tig welds for fear of losing strength but all the other wire feed was ground. is it cuz its not all painted up pretty? ive ran it for over 9 months and wheel all the time.
 
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txredxj said:
whats wrong with it? the bends are so the tie rod ends are at a semi neutal angle to prevent binding. all of it was welded with 45 wire pulse and the tubing is 1 inch 1/4 wall dom tig welded with a stainless filler. the steering drag link is 2 degrees from parelell with the track bar. the gussets are stainless 1/4 plate. what else is there to do? i didnt grind the tig welds for fear of losing strength but all the other wire feed was ground. is it cuz its not all painted up pretty? ive ran it for over 9 months and wheel all the time.

explain again why there are bends in the drag link?

you do know that drag link and trackbar parallel-ness come from the end points of the bars ONLY - nothing in-between matters...

it looks like there is a huge dead spot in the steering too, and the TRE at the draglink / tie rod is in the worst possible setup for the max angle...
 
most put the bends as far tward the end as possible to reduce the angle needed on the bend. it looks as though the tierod is very thin where the draglink connects to it, creating another weak point. to me if you are a capible welder there are soo many better options and ways to make this a cleaner/stronger setup.
 
XJ_ranger said:
explain again why there are bends in the drag link?

you do know that drag link and trackbar parallel-ness come from the end points of the bars ONLY - nothing in-between matters...

it looks like there is a huge dead spot in the steering too, and the TRE at the draglink / tie rod is in the worst possible setup for the max angle...

The bends place the tre's at zero degrees at ride height so they have full range of motion in both directions.
 
I don't think it's as bad as some have said here.
I like the thought behind bending the tubes to get the TREs at flat angles at rest.
Good in theory.
However...
Those bends add a lot of stress to the tubes and that is a real concern.
I've personally bent 1 ton Chevy TREs pushing against the rocks without hydro assist.
Having your drag link collapse or break will ruin your whole day.
 
Yeah, it will work, and the bends are gusseted well so the drag link will probably hold up, but why? There's no design or performance advantage to that setup, and it looks like hell. You have less ground clearance than the stock design, just better angles at the joints on the drag link. In mud and dirt it might be OK, but in rocks that tie rod is very exposed and weak where the drag link connects.

I don't get why you wouldn't go over the knuckle to gain ground clearance and better angles, especially if you're a welder and can do it however you want. Sorry you're getting some negative comments, no one wants to hear that about what they've built. However, your design leaves a lot to be desired and there have been much better designs posted regularly around here.

You asked what we think. :)
 
txredxj,

I know you're a newbie around here with 15 posts and all, so don't get discouraged at the negative tone to your thread.

For the most part, the criticizm you're getting is being given by guys that are concerned about the safety and design issues your set up creates for a lifted XJ.

No one wants to see anyone duplicate a lesser design when there's solid, proven examples out there.

Search using some terms like "over the knuckle", "OTK", "tie rod flip", "high steer", "over axle bracket" and you'll find hundreds of posts with pictures that will help you understand the criticizm your getting.

Welcome to NAXJA - tough love and thick skin prevails here.
 
Dirk Pitt said:
The bends place the tre's at zero degrees at ride height so they have full range of motion in both directions.

i know that, but they can be less degree bends closer to the joint...

2261630_1_full.jpg


it looks like he tried to match the bends in both units...
 
rokjeep said:
I love booty fab.....it makes me feel better about the crap I build.

Good! :)

:laugh:
 
txredxj said:
ive ran it for over 9 months and wheel all the time.


I don't understand....if you wheel it, and are happy with it, what is the point of this post?
 
i bent the drag link like the track bar cuz i figure it would be a good way to go. i am new and asked what people thought and all i got was they didnt like it. another reason i did this was to retain my alignment better because with the stock set up my toe changes depending on load and i cant aford to wear out my tires fast. this was done on the cheap for 70 dollars. i really didnt think of moving out the bends, i thought if i had the bends close to the center and gusseted making a sort of an X i would utilize the gussets better. i didnt go over the knuckle because of lack of information. i know people bore out the hole and do heims but i didnt want to do heims cuz there not sevicable. i did do this set up before i knew about this site and all the info i could get on cherokees.
 
ehh live an learn. if it only cost ya 70 or so dollars run it for a while and research other ideas and come up with one ya like better.
 
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