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Daily Driver Alloys

Matt S.

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fresno, CA
Here within the next few months, I am going to try to get alloys into a jeep. I am not sure on what kind of aftermarket joints I can run. These shafts are going to see lots and lots and lots of road miles. With lots and lots of trail time. Oh and this is 44 shafts, but dont have hubs.

I have been looking at the Jantz joints, as well as the new 300M Longfields. I havnt been able to find "proof" that there is a non-stock joint that can handle extended road use. What have you guys done in the Dana Turdies?
 
I still see no need for alloys with your 31s... but I could never bring myself to discourage it if you got the money.

I would just run 760x joints with full circle clips. At least a handful of people have broken alloy shafts without breaking 760x joints, though the needle bearings is still a weakpoint, so be sure to check for slop from crushed needle bearings semi-regularly.
 
BrettM said:
I still see no need for alloys with your 31s... but I could never bring myself to discourage it if you got the money.

I would just run 760x joints with full circle clips. At least a handful of people have broken alloy shafts without breaking 760x joints, though the needle bearings is still a weakpoint, so be sure to check for slop from crushed needle bearings semi-regularly.

Ditto.

Mine have done just fine.

--ron
 
If you put hubs on there you can run whatever joint you chose for they will not see any road use. I am installing a set of yukons and longfiels as we speak. The longfields look pretty mean. They say not recomended for highway use. They do not have needle bearing or bushings and recomend that they be graese every other wheelin' trip. I will post in a new thread once they are installed.
 
I have the new Yukon super 44 joints that will be going into a set of Superior Evo shafts. They look nice and beefy but I have hubs on my 44 so they arent spinning on a daily basis. Since you are spending the money on this, I would probably go with the JE Reel joints since they still have needle bearings and are high strength. http://www.ok4wd.com/product.asp?id=654 They are cheap, high strength, and guaranteed against breakage.

AARON
 
with stock spicer joints lasting 100k if the super joints lasted half that you would be in good shape seeing as most are rebuildable. with regular greasing i see no prob with super joints lasting a very long time. rember the joint only sees movement when turning and even that movement is a slight back and fourth. how about this run the longfield ones if they go bad i'll buy them off ya:laugh3:
 
Kid4Lyf ran CTM's? in his turdy on the therory that they dont wear on the u-joint while on the street except while turning, and most highway, high speed driving is straight anyway...

might PM him as to his results if he doesnt chime in here....
 
It's always been my theory to have your joints as the weak point in your axles... easier and cheaper to replace one of those on the trail than A broken shaft... just a thought.
 
LilRedRover said:
It's always been my theory to have your joints as the weak point in your axles... easier and cheaper to replace one of those on the trail than A broken shaft... just a thought.

And a retarded thought at that.
I've NEVER seen a joint break and NOT take the shaft with it.
It's a much easier trail fix if you have entire spare axleshaft assemblies.
 
Jes said:
And a retarded thought at that.
I've NEVER seen a joint break and NOT take the shaft with it.
It's a much easier trail fix if you have entire spare axleshaft assemblies.
DING.. DING.. DING.. winner:laugh3:

thats why i would do away with a little longevity for the added strength in an super joint.
 
LilRedRover said:
It's always been my theory to have your joints as the weak point in your axles... easier and cheaper to replace one of those on the trail than A broken shaft... just a thought.


A joint will usually take out a shaft. It is best to carry a spare shaft (inner and outer) with a loint already installed for both sides. The shaft has to come out to replace a joint anyway so what is the difference? IMO I would rather have a strong joint on alloy shafts and move the weak point to the hub or the carrier. If you are weelin' something that will break the carrier you were probably doing something that you should not have been doing anyway.
 
The local 4x4 shop guy Has been running 760x's in his locked front d44 with 38" tires with no breaks for 3 years. I think they'll handle 31's and 25 bucks apiece isn't that bad.
 
goodburbon said:
The local 4x4 shop guy Has been running 760x's in his locked front d44 with 38" tires with no breaks for 3 years. I think they'll handle 31's and 25 bucks apiece isn't that bad.

wow a 44 with 38's and no breakage but it just keeps getting better it's locked:laugh3:. annnnd it has stock joints:wierd:. annnnnnnnnd its worked for 3 years :wow: this is just too good to be true.:bs:can he build me one of these indestructable axles for me?? come on does the guy run is super sloppy mud only or what?
 
bj-666 said:
wow a 44 with 38's and no breakage but it just keeps getting better it's locked:laugh3:. annnnd it has stock joints:wierd:. annnnnnnnnd its worked for 3 years :wow: this is just too good to be true.:bs:can he build me one of these indestructable axles for me?? come on does the guy run is super sloppy mud only or what?
250.jpg
 
right from the horse's mouth

CTM's are being used on daily drivers and they do not wear out prematurely as long as you grease them at regular intervals,we recommend at every oil change will be more than adequate to provide years of trouble free service,please call 949-487-0770 for answers to questions about "our" products and have a great day!....................Jack..............
 
no, stock joints would be the 5-297x

the 760, though made by spicer is forged, and considerably stronger than the "stock" cast u-joints.
 
XJ_ranger said:
Kid4Lyf ran CTM's? in his turdy on the therory that they dont wear on the u-joint while on the street except while turning, and most highway, high speed driving is straight anyway...

might PM him as to his results if he doesnt chime in here....

Those are Jantz joints and after seeing them up close, that's what I'll do when I feel the need.

The coolest feature is the spring in the trunion forcing the aircraft grade anti-seize into the places that need it.

Very cool joint!
 
goodburbon said:
the 760, though made by spicer is forged, and considerably stronger than the "stock" cast u-joints.

Is this fact or did you read that on the internet somewhere?
 
Yea, I'm running the Jantz Joints. They're the same as the Yukons (Carl Jantz developed them and licenced them to Yukon) except for one huge difference. Yukon removed the spring loaded grease feature to save $.
That feature allows grease to be constantly pressured into the cap and, to me, is the best feature of these joints.
They also are easy to grease with the wheels on. (One of the only aftermarket joints that are)
You can still buy the origionals straight from Jantz at the same price as Yukon sells them for.
Also, keep in mind, the yoke doesn't spin in the cap. When going straight there is almost no movement between the cap and yoke. Only when turning does it move and then only a small back and forth movement.
 
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