• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

steering on a 7" lift - a little help or experience

RWKHausSupply

NAXJA Forum User
Well I am do a 7" LA up front and before I removed the front crap I noticed that the front steering was holding the axle up from coming down any further and it was at only about 9" of droop. Well at 7" of lift and a 3" drop pit arm I still think that with the pass side up and drivers down while articulated, the steering is going to be the limiter.

My question's are in a few directions...

I searched for any specifics on the currie HD setup pitman end tie rod to see if its a higher rotational type end? nothing though was mentioned. anyone know if it allows more rotation then the stock end? If it does I am inclined to just fab the adjuster sleeve area for now and get the one TRE from them and use it till I do a more costly and better setup.

Do I even need to worry about that end at all? At 7" of lift and a long arm setup it is going to flex more then the short arm, so will it limit flex/droop with the tie rod end? If so thats gota be very unsafe?

what is the most common fix to this? Just fork out the 600$ for a phatjeeps setup?
 
I am at 7.5 on my MJ with a TNT Ylink. I spent the money right the first and bought Rockkrawlers X Factor steering. The stock stuff will never work right for you.
 
with 7" of lift, you'll be running big enough tires to warrant a dana 60, find one with king pin knuckles, use high steer arms off those and you won't have a problem :D
 
brent said:
with 7" of lift, you'll be running big enough tires to warrant a dana 60, find one with king pin knuckles, use high steer arms off those and you won't have a problem :D

yeah some portals or MOG's would also work great.. But I have never (yes never) had a problem with a HP30 with 35's... you just have to keep on top of the ujoints and not just expect something like the ujoints to last forever and spend the whoping 15$ at the earliest sign of wear..

Well since I dont really like anything rockkrawler, old or even new now. I will just get the phatjeep setup I guess when the $ is there.

PS why the F would I do a 60 up front when theres such better choices, like a 9" shaved or even just a D44 with 1ton outers?
 
bigwhitey said:
Tera high steer 500

Well a buddy did that conversion and had to relocate the sway bar tabs I thought?

bigwhitey said:
Flip inserts, RHD draglink and tierod of choice 200-300

still have to relocate swaybar?

bigwhitey said:
Build or order your own 1 ton inverted-T setup <300

I looked in to this but to run a tierod over a 1.125 x 188Wall I read all over the place that the swaybar tabs and track bar brackets hit, not to mention you need a reamer at 55-80$.

120+ for tre's
65 in tube inserts
50-100 in DOM
80 - reamer

hard to say less then 300 but yeah its cheaper.
 
bigwhitey said:
Flip inserts, RHD draglink and tierod of choice 200-300

I'm intrigued. Are you saying that if you ream the knuckles and pop the TRE's in the top all you need is a RHD draglink to get a cheap high steer on a LHD XJ?

Hmm... I've got a RHD XJ and TJ going to CT in August that will probably be shedding their RHD draglinks for a custom built setup. I thought the RHD draglinks would be going in the scrap pile!
 
Look, any steering set up that will work GOOD with over 6"s of lift you're going to have to relocate the anti-roll bar mounts and quite possably the panhard bar mount.
 
Vince said:
I'm intrigued. Are you saying that if you ream the knuckles and pop the TRE's in the top all you need is a RHD draglink to get a cheap high steer on a LHD XJ?

That's not high steer. That's over the knuckle steering.
 
Please excuse my ignorance. Can you briefly explain the difference between high steer and over the knuckle for me or point me to a URL. I have mistakenly thought they were the same for some time!
 
OTK is exactly that move the mount over the knuckle I.E. flip inserts.
High steer has a second arm at the top for the draglink to attach to I.E. tera high steer.
 
Phatjeeps uses mounts you bolt to the knuckles to push the steering outwards much like ORO steering but beefier. This is the only way not to change the sway bar mounts. How ever don't forget you'll ned to relocate the tracbar mount on the axle to keep it paralell with the draglink so cutting and welding are inevitable.
 
bigwhitey said:
High steer has a second arm at the top for the draglink to attach to I.E. tera high steer.

I wouldn't call a Tera knuckle high steer either since only the drag link is up high, the tie rod is still in a low steer or a OTK configuration.
The only way to have true high steer is with flat top knuckles...
picture.JPG
 
Hey Robert, if you want to check out a Tera knuckle up close, let me know. It's sitting in a friend's house right now, but I think he's decided to use WJ stuff so it'll be coming back to my garage soon. If it's something you want to do, for $100 you can have the Tera Knuckle and a YJ knuckle (driver side) that are already reamed for under the knuckle 1 tone ends.

I just finished my WJ swap if you want to check that out too.
 
jonboy said:
Hey Robert, if you want to check out a Tera knuckle up close, let me know. It's sitting in a friend's house right now, but I think he's decided to use WJ stuff so it'll be coming back to my garage soon. If it's something you want to do, for $100 you can have the Tera Knuckle and a YJ knuckle (driver side) that are already reamed for under the knuckle 1 tone ends.

I just finished my WJ swap if you want to check that out too.

You know I may just be interested in that setup if its avail. I have to have this as well as Sooo may other things done in the next 2 weeks, so let me know when I can check it out.

Thanks
[email protected]
714-875-2414
 
comancheon33 said:
I am at 7.5 on my MJ with a TNT Ylink. I spent the money right the first and bought Rockkrawlers X Factor steering. The stock stuff will never work right for you.
hows that X factor? can you really drop it out
 
I used the Terra knuckle but reamed the arms to mount the tie rod and draglink on top. For the tie rod I used WJ TRE's with the ORGS/JKS WJ tie rod. The WJ TRE's have a slight bend in them so the TR clears the diff cover and coil buckets. The sway bar links will need to be relocated if you run one. The track bar needs to be raised above the axle. Again I used the JKS bracket and track bar kit. I had to raise the bracket a bit (and reinforce it) to get the track bar parallel with the draglink. Used the RE TB bracket at the frame end and a ZJ pitman arm. I had a local shop make up a beefy draglink. I have 7.5" lift and the steering is perfect. No bumpsteer or binding at flex and much tighter than the stock junk. It's a lot of coin to spend on a D30 but it's a great solution until I change axles.
 
If you want to see exactly what needs to be done to fit a OTK setup, just check out my write up on my site that I just put up a few days ago. It includes templates for the swaybar brackets, trackbar and steering stabilizer mounts.

www.go.jeep-xj.info
 
jonboy said:
Hey Robert, if you want to check out a Tera knuckle up close, let me know. It's sitting in a friend's house right now, but I think he's decided to use WJ stuff so it'll be coming back to my garage soon. If it's something you want to do, for $100 you can have the Tera Knuckle and a YJ knuckle (driver side) that are already reamed for under the knuckle 1 tone ends.

I just finished my WJ swap if you want to check that out too.

Ill take that stuff, that would solve my issues, as I have to add 2 inches more lift in the front of my setup!!
 
ROBERTK said:
PS why the F would I do a 60 up front when theres such better choices, like a 9" shaved or even just a D44 with 1ton outers?
$

but what do I know your the F in expert
 
Back
Top