Slightly diferent method for rear discs on D44 (tons of pics!)

[cbremer]

all done.. only took about 6 1/2 hours or so... not too bad!

ZJ disc bracket and dust shield, inboard view:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs01.jpg

donor axle shaft with new bearing, seal and TJ Rubicon retainer plate:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs02.jpg

:( the bracket won't fit over the bearing! (but you already knew that ;) )

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs03.jpg

one of these will make short work of the problem

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs04.jpg

see? now they fit!

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs05.jpg

another angle

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs06.jpg

comparison between regular TJ backing plate and Rubicon backing plate (see how the Rubi plate has a little turndown to hold the seal in place? use the Rubi plate, then you don't need a custom-machined spacer):

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs07.jpg

on to the good stuff... raise the rear (use jackstands!) and remove the tires and brake drums:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs08.jpg

pull the axle shafts:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs09.jpg

disconnect the brake line, disassemble the drum brake hardware, disconnect the parking brake cable, and remove the backing plate (it should basically fall off!) Brake fluid will want to drain out, so I connected the new caliper to keep fluid from dribbling everywhere:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs10.jpg

remove the bearing raceway:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs11.jpg

comparison between theTJ/ZJ pattern and the XJ axle:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs12.jpg

two holes need to be drilled and two need to be ovalled out a little:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs13.jpg

growing pile of junk :D :

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs14.jpg

clamp the TJ retainer in place and mark where the new holes need to be drilled/enlarged:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs15.jpg

done:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs16.jpg

file off the burrs and clean up the flange so the new stuff fits flush:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs17.jpg

bolt it up! everything fits...

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs18.jpg

install the axle shaft. i used a deadblow mallet to seat the new bearing. tighten the retaining bolts/nuts.

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs19.jpg

view of the new retainer plate/seal:

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs20.jpg

install the caliper. i didn't need to re-flare the brakelin; just re-routed it to fit a little better. i'll weld the tab to the axle tube in the near future.

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs21.jpg

not too shabby, huh?

http://trailbossoffroad.com/discs22.jpg

for now, I have no parking brake. i'm going to remove the parking brake cables and install ZJ cables in their place instead of welding to the parking brake actuator arm to enable the use of XJ cables. (if you weld to the arm, you won't be able to remove the actuator anymore.)

Tomorrow I will do the proportioning valve mod to restore proper bias to the brakes.

The part number for the TJ Rubicon retainer plates is 1-05083678AA. You'll need 2, and they only cost about $4 a piece. Much cheaper than having anything made at a machine shop :D

Thanks to Stu Olson for his informative website www.stu-offroad.com and to William for loaning me his D44 axle shafts to minimize down-time.

Chuck

[Handlebars]

Nice work, Chuck! Nice write up, too. Thanks!

[eric91xj]

nice looking set up, how much did it set you back for the whole conversion?

eric

[TC]

Good job! I like this set-up much better than the spacer, wish it was around when I did mine. TC

[offroadman83]

How did this mod work for you after all--------give us an update. I really want to do this now.-------Kyle

[cbremer]

OK an update :D i tweaked one of the seals (my fault) and it leaked gear oil all over the driver's side. cleaned it all up, popped off the bearing, put on a new seal, pressed the bearing back on and buttoned it all back up.

NOW, I must say that I wonder why I didn't do this sooner! I have WJ front brakes, so with the stock drums I'd get a lot of dive unless I was really light on the brakes. now it stops nice and level and very controlled. Even without different front brakes, i'd say this is a worthwhile mod due to the fact that it'll give you much more controlled braking when you're backing down that loose hill you couldn't quite make it up... as good as they are, the stock rear drums just have no braking in reverse. i know they're not designed to... but discs are. i'd do this mod again in a heartbeat.

chuck

[Slip Kid]

Nicely done. I think the word for that is "trick"

So it looks like those rotors have little mini drum brakes inside of them? I'm guessing those are the E brakes? I didn't know that's how they did that....

[RCP Phx]

Ive been looking at these photos and Stu's page also.MY model 20's used ball bearings but this uses tapered roller bearings.What holds the bearing in the housing???????

[cbremer]

there's a lip inside the housing that the bearing race rests against, and from the other side, the bearing is pressed on to the axle shaft (so it doesn't move) and the retainer and seal press the bearing, preloading it slightly.

[RCP Phx]

Yeah I know all that, but where/what applies pressure to the inner potion of the bearing.It seem all the rest just holds the outer race in place!

[stoneattic]

Could you list all the parts need for a simpleton like me? :)

Are the ZJ brackets and dust shields junkyard items?
Did they come from a D44 ZJ (Aluminum?)

TIA!

[xj4rocks]

There's a big ass retaining ring. above the bearing in his pics you'll see about a 1/2" th steel ring that is TIGHT on the axle. It's actually much tighter than the bearing itself. That holds the bearing on. The race just rests against the lip in the axle tube and the seal and 4 bolt retaining flange is the preload on the bearing.

[Lucas]

did you happen to buy those brakes off the boards?

[cbremer]

i actually bought them (brackets & calipers) on JU. i'm not sure if they came off a ZJ D35 or an aluminum D44- but, as far as I know, either one will work. all other parts were new (parking brake shoes, pads, rotors, bearings, seals)

$125 used brackets, stone shields & calipers
$60 new rotors
$25 new pads
$15 new parking brake shoes
$50 new bearings & seals
est. ~$45 new parking brake cables (still need to buy)
$20 TJ retainer plates, fluid, odds & ends

So you're looking at about $340 total

[XJJack]

I would think you would have a problem bleeding the air out, with that hose loop up right by the caliper, but if it working then great.

[Andy in Pa.]

Stoneattic--
I just did this change too, I am right down the road from you in West Bradford, Pa. If you want to check it out, hit me b-c. Pulled all of my hardware off a ZJ D44, but it can also come from a ZJ D35. I re-drilled the backing plate instead of the axle flange and had spacers made. Works just as well.

A.

[RCP Phx]

Ive got everything to get started except this spacer or bearing retainer(s).How did you make them?Also what about E-brake cables,the newer Xj's are different!

[BrettM]

nice lugnuts on the u-bolts :D

[wascobi]

I'm just finishing off this project. I had the brackets machined to fit my '87 D44 flanges and mounting plates. also clearanced to pass the axle assembly through. custom spacers are expensive! machine work was $325.00 CDN I love the way it "squats" down when you hammer the pedal instead of nose-diving now. I saw that most guys were welding a paw on the end of the e-brake lever to attach YJ cables or looping the end of the cable. didn't like the look of either plus it wont pass an inspection. working on a system using stock ZJ cables. re-locating the forward cable mount about 5-6 inches rearward. getting short intermediate cables made and connecting them with a brake cable union.