Rocker arm oil problem

More ongoing problems with my HEEP. It developed a "chirp/squeak"
from the front of the motor, up to 2000 rpms, then no noise. Hoped it was a belt / pulley problem, took off belt, nope still sqeaks, pull off valve cover, #1 intake rocker arm is bone dry. This might explain the broken ra bolt / worn vale tip on #2 intake on head I replaced last weekend. When I rev it up ONLY the last 2 cylinders have any significant oil squirting out of the the ra's pushrod hole. I ran it without 2 front pushrods, lifter seemed to pumping some oil. Minimum oil pressure: 20# idle 40# 2500rpm hot, 10w 30 in Florida, engine temp about 200deg. Cleaned tops of lifter to keep crap out when I replaced the head. Where are the oil passages to the lifters located, can you unscrew a plug to clean out the lifter gallery like alot of other motors? Any ideas? I drive 80-100 mi a day for work.

Decided to add 1qt atf and drive and get rid of the fram filter.

hello, new guy here armed with many dumb questions. what will the atf do? help you clean it all out? thanks

atf hopefully will clean out oil passages/lifters.

There are also products made especially to clean motors. I think one is called "motor sludge" or something like that. I'd run that for about 4 or 5 hundred miles, then change oil and filter and run regular oil for another 40 5 hundred ... then change oil and filter again.

And definitely get rid of the fram filter ... that's half the reason it got clogged in the first place

Hmm... my '89 just developed a funny squeek that kind of sounds like belt squeel, but a tad quieter than I'm used to. And I use Fram oil filters... Maybe I should pull off my valve cover and get a look see. Good excuse to replace the leaky gasket too.

Better pull off the vc quick before something breaks!

A little trick to get the lifter pumping again: First, make sure the pushrod isn't clogged. Then, tap the rocker gently while the motor is running. (downwards on top of the pushrod end) That usually dislodges the crud and gets oil happening again in a couple minutes.

Never thought of tapping on the ra's

montanaman said:

There are also products made especially to clean motors. I think one is called "motor sludge" or something like that. I'd run that for about 4 or 5 hundred miles, then change oil and filter and run regular oil for another 40 5 hundred ... then change oil and filter again.

And definitely get rid of the fram filter ... that's half the reason it got clogged in the first place

Click to expand...

Here's one that actually works: http://www.rislone.com/engine.htm ..........Hans

I've used rislone in the past I'm sure dextron atf detergent properties are at least as good and I know parts will still be properly lubricated.

I have had great results with Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO). Had an engine (Pont. 400+ci) that was so bad that it was "popping" back thru the carb and no power, valvetrain prob. Changed oil and added1 qt. of MMO, ran it for a week, repeated process, got much better,repeated process one more time, all was back to normal and never had a prob with it again....well at least not 'til that telephone pole leaped put in front of me,,lol