Quick Oil Question for HIGH mileage

I am getting ready to head to the store and pick up some stuff for an oil change, possible a diff. fluid change too...
I have been using synthetic oil in light of my mileage (195,000) on my 2000 and was thinking to myself what the best oil out there might be, and if anyone has had success or not with additives. Just a quick reply will suffice, thanks.

Geez - I'm still using regular 10W-40 in my 88 - with 247Kmiles. Haven't had any trouble yet.

Get Valvoline or Castrol, and Wix filters. No need to bother with all that high-dollar stuff, y'ask me...

5-90

I've been running Purolator filters and Valvoline for the last 120,000 of my rig's 262,000 miles. For giggles I tried Delo 400 15W40 this last time and the oil pressure seems to stay consistent longer versus the 20W50 I had been running. I'm going to stick with it for a few changes to see if anything good or bad happens. Regardless, I like the gallon jugs better. Who doesn't?

All in all, frequent changes are the answer more than anything else.

Pennzoil makes a 5W50 synthetic pretty good stuff but if you want a heavier weight at startup 20w50 is a choice but i havent seen it in synthetic yet. I run 15w40 myself

110,000 on rebuilt '97. been runnin' 10w40 mobil1 with the larger filter. don't forget to add the extra oil if you go big filter. (search the site if you don't know what i'm talkin about...) haven't ran anything else, so far everythings smooth (oil pressure), but i also let it warm up for a few before i drive. pretty cheap at Wal-mart.... under $35 for everything, filters I get somewhere else... changing it around every 6000 miles... still holds above spec pressure for each cylinder.... just checked at 100,000 miles....

If you're running a top quality synthetic you definitely don't need any additives. The oil will already have all the additives that your engine needs.
Me? I've done 23k miles on my stroker and I've been running 0W-40 Mobil 1 for the last 20k miles through cool winters and scorching hot summers.

I recommend the Motorcraft FL-1A, or Purolator. In my ranger I actually saw better, more consistant oil pressure, and faster pressure build up on starts after sitting overnight, with Motorcraft.... that was when I switched from Fram (use to be good, now crap). Use either Motorcraft, or Purolators, since about 98 with no issues.

Oil... I use to use alot of Castrol semi-syn...but I dont get the deals on it anymore... so its usually a good name brand 15w-40 dino (Havoline usually). Im open to suggestions on the best weight and brand.

StylerG said:

I am getting ready to head to the store and pick up some stuff for an oil change, possible a diff. fluid change too...
I have been using synthetic oil in light of my mileage (195,000) on my 2000 and was thinking to myself what the best oil out there might be, and if anyone has had success or not with additives. Just a quick reply will suffice, thanks.

Click to expand...

Mobil drive clean 5,000 best dino oil for the buck was 1.77qt @ Wal -Mart
and it keeps the inside very clean and leaves low deposit levels,not to mention it's heat breakdown levels.

I run 10w40 in the XJ - 2,500 miles
10w30 in My 1990 Ranger-3000 miles
5w30 in my Contour SVT-1500-2000 miles


Castrol non semi synth SUCKS,Castrol full Synthetic on the other hand= :thumbup: :cheers:

I'm running mobil drive clean 7500 5w30 on a 4.0 with 171,000 miles. Its a high detergent dino/synthetic blend and costs less than full synthetic. It seems to be eating the varnish off the rocker arms, and hopefully is cleaning the rotating assembly as well.

Who needs additives?

Really with a jeep having 195k i would use whatever you have been using. I personally use castrol gtx 10w30 and a purulator oil filter. Whatever u decide to do, stick with name brand oils (castrol, mobil, valvoline) and name brand filters (bosch, mopar, wix, purolator, napa) and u should be ok.

pete

I only have 154k miles on my '89, but I use 5w30 Mobile 1 full synthetic... My oil pressure at idle(warm engine) is usually between 40-50 psi, and sticks around 60 when accelerating.

Only problem was some valve tapping right after the change over, went away after an hour or so of driving.

Purolator makes motorcraft filter, but to slightly diff specs for Ford.

fordtech said:

I recommend the Motorcraft FL-1A, or Purolator. In my ranger I actually saw better, more consistant oil pressure, and faster pressure build up on starts after sitting overnight, with Motorcraft.... that was when I switched from Fram (use to be good, now crap). Use either Motorcraft, or Purolators, since about 98 with no issues.

Oil... I use to use alot of Castrol semi-syn...but I dont get the deals on it anymore... so its usually a good name brand 15w-40 dino (Havoline usually). Im open to suggestions on the best weight and brand.

Click to expand...

Im running straight Lucas!!!!!!!! No problems at all and dont have to do oil changes nearly as often, just change the filter.

Which Lucas are you using, the pure synthetic or the pure Dyno Petroleum version?

Dr. Dyno said:

If you're running a top quality synthetic you definitely don't need any additives. The oil will already have all the additives that your engine needs.
Me? I've done 23k miles on my stroker and I've been running 0W-40 Mobil 1 for the last 20k miles through cool winters and scorching hot summers.

Click to expand...

Is your cool winter like our hot summer?
Back to the oil topic. I run synthetics in my two Contours and I've run synthetics since the late '80s in other stuff. As long as you don't have leaks, then I wouldn't worry. From what I hear, the dino oils have improved a lot in the past few years. Their performance in getting close to synthetics. I wouldn't jump to run a thicker oil. You will/might loose a few MPG. Some engines don't like a thicker oil. My '96 Ford Contour with the 2.0 4cyl ran bad on 15W-50 Mobil 1. They run best on a 5w-30. I have used Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Pennzoil Platinum, NAPA synthetic(Valvoline I think) and Ammaco Ultimate. Engines can be particular in which brand they like. I haven't run synthetics in the 4.0L. So as far as which is best for your engine as situation, I can't really say. I have run the Mobil 1 in the rear diff. I haven't had any problems.
I favor NAPA Gold filters, which are made by Wix. Hastings, Wix, Baldwin and NAPA filters should be about the same. The Mobil 1 filters have a very good rep, but cost twice as much. Purolators should be good too. MotorCraft and GM/AC Delco are suppose to be OK also.
I have run synthetics to a 10K oil change in the 96 Contour. At 160K it used maybe 1/2 a quart in 9K. The engine was clean when I pull the valve cover at 156K and at 175K. I think this car/motor like Castrol and Pennsoil Platinum.
Since your down south, you might want to run the Mobil 1 5w-40. If you put a lot of milage on, then maybe a 5w-30 in the winter.
Mobil 1 change their formulation to a Group III. Red Line, Amsoil, Royal Purple, NEO are Group 4 and 5 formulations. My brother runs Amsoil and likes it. Also, there is a Castrol made in Germany thats suppose to be very good. You can only get it at AutoZone. I think its 0w-40. It will say made in Germany on the back in small letter.
When I run regular oil, I liked Havoline. It or TropArtic have a good reputation. I ran Shell Rotella 15w-40 in the 4.0L. Don't know it that was the best choice though.
I just bought a MB 240D and think about what oil to run. With a diesel, the options are bit narrower. One guy is running ELF 5w-30 in his. Sounds interesting. I think the german Castrol is diesel rated also.
Tom