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Submitted for your Approval. . . .

ZomBrady

ZomBrady

Chubby Chaser Extraordinaire
NAXJA Member
Location
Albuquerque
Okay, here's the deal. I have a 96 XJ Sport, AW4 4.0L.

I've rebuilt and stroked the motor and down various other engine performance upgrades.

Now the plan is to move on to the drivetrain and suspension. Thus far I've collected 3" Rancho coils, an extra spring pack for a franken-pack lift in the rear, Procomp LCAs, upgraded braking, Bilstein 5100s for all four corners and some armor.

The final plan is for a 3" franken-lift, 31 or 32" tires, front and rear 410s, a dana 44 w/a trutrac in the rear, a SYE installed, and front hub conversions installed.

How does it sound?
Any suggestions?
Any parts you're willing to donate/sell to the cause?

Thanks
 
Call me neurotic. . . .

I grew up in the desert with my ol'man and anything that increased the likely hood of coming home despite broken parts was always looked upon highly. I really like having equipment and vehicles that don't strand me becuase of inherent design weakness.

We drove back from Az to Ca once on front wheel drive in his F 100 because he broke a driveline.

Anyway, the rational of the front hub conversion, is that if I don't need 4 lo but would like to be in 2 lo, I can. Plus, strengthening the front hubs lessons the likelihood of hub failure out in the boonies. Yes, it's not a d44HP, but d30s are still plenty strong if trussed and braced for 32 to 31 inch tires. And if I really get going wholehog, it'll force me to install 5 on 5.5, which thenmeans that my tires and rims will be interchangeable with my old f-100 PU. Another side benefit.

If your opinion differs, please says so. I am WAY open to advice.

But before I do the front, I need to replace the rear d35. Grrrr. I really don't like non-floating or semi floating axles. . ..
 
Last edited:
Sounds like some heavy duty turd polishing to me! I run 35's on a 44R/30F set up. I upgraded the front axle shafts to the 297x shaft and carry the old shafts as spares. It's about a 20 minute trail swap. I figure that I don't want to dump a whole lot of money into the turd 30. Someday I will convert to a front D44 or if I have some money to burn F/R Pro Rock 60's. I guess if you are really into turd polishing you could truss the heck out of it like you said and do the 30 spline shaft conversion. I think that it is only available in a Detroit and an ARB right now. I heard that they were doing it in an OX Locker, but I haven't seen that one yet. I haven't broken any front axle junk yet, but I don't run Johnson Valley either. Just my 2 cents.


Neil
 
So we have two for, 'waste of money on hub conversion. . .."

Anymore? I think I am almost convinced that it's a waste of time and money.

Plus, I really apperciate any advice that saves me money.
 
make that three!

those hubs are only rated for 32's, the stock hub assemblies dont start giving out until your on 35's (i was blowing a hub a month on 35x16 boggers)

if your doing everything else right, get a full leaf pack
 
For 2wd low range in a 231 t-case (not sure what you have) get a Tera 2Low kit and save about $650 over the hub kit. If something broke in the front you should have spare shafts anyway. And if it were the carrier, you would take it out.
 
Yea... i just dont see the need in doing that. You wont be able to get the recomended use out of it. Waste of money UNLESS you plan to go bigger later, in which case i would recomend the hub conversion later. Anyhow, i wouldent do it now.

I agree with teal, get the full springs.
 
John90XJ said:
For 2wd low range in a 231 t-case (not sure what you have) get a Tera 2Low kit and save about $650 over the hub kit. If something broke in the front you should have spare shafts anyway. And if it were the carrier, you would take it out.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, I will have to research th Tera 2low kit. . . and figure out what tcase I have. I think this is a good idea, thanks.

As for full leaf packs, my budget just said I could manage that since there won't be a hub conversion. But now I ask you why you suggest full leaf packs vs a franken-pack?
 
SBrad001 said:
Hmmm, I will have to research th Tera 2low kit. . . and figure out what tcase I have. I think this is a good idea, thanks.

As for full leaf packs, my budget just said I could manage that since there won't be a hub conversion. But now I ask you why you suggest full leaf packs vs a franken-pack?
Click to expand...


I am at 6.5" with a "franken-pack". They worked well for a while. I am going to have to replace them soon though, actually I probably should have replaced them last year. Why? you ask. They are sagging unevenly and the main spring is bending near the eye. There are a lot of options and I am currently shopping for the best "bang for your buck" Some people have had the franken-pack work well for them. For me, it was a temporary way for me to get to 6.5" until I could afford a set of leaf packs.

Neil
 
I also vote to not do the hub conversion. Just no need for it. The D30 will hold up fine to 31s or 32s with 760 or even 297 ujoints. There are many XJs, YJs and TJs that run 35s all day long on them with no problems. Put the hub money towards a winch.
The frankenpack will be fine also. It may take some fine tuning to get the height and ride the way you want it though.
I would ditch the procomp arms. I think they have poly bushings. The poly will hold up well over time but will ride harsh and will be hard on the control arm mounts. Look around for a set of arms with rubber bushings.
You should also think about a trackbar solution also. Not needed but nice to center everything up.
 
i have a 96 sitting at a true 4.5" and in no way shape or form do i need an sye a t-case drop is more than adequate. The 96 has a longer slip yoke. At 3" you'll be wasting money bigtime on a SYE.
 
boomhauer said:
i have a 96 sitting at a true 4.5" and in no way shape or form do i need an sye a t-case drop is more than adequate. The 96 has a longer slip yoke. At 3" you'll be wasting money bigtime on a SYE.
Click to expand...


This one I would argue with. The security of being able to hobble home on Front Wheel Drive, is well worth cost of a SYE in my opinion. The SYE is by no means for driveline vibes, strictly for 'my' piece of mind. You know what I mean? :D
 
Ray H said:
. . .I would ditch the procomp arms. I think they have poly bushings. The poly will hold up well over time but will ride harsh and will be hard on the control arm mounts. Look around for a set of arms with rubber bushings.
You should also think about a trackbar solution also. Not needed but nice to center everything up.
Click to expand...

I relatively sure at some point in the future I will switch out the Procomp arms, but the price was right for now.

I plan on either a trackbar or a adjustment bracket for the stock trackbar. Just waiting on finding one that's a good deal.

What do you think of SkyJackers LCAs?

And also, do you think upper adjustable control arms would be a good idea to correct the camber? It is only 3", but even that does affect camber to a certian degree, but is it worth the price of upper control arms?

Thanks for the input thus far guys! I'm really indebted to you for your input.
 
SBrad001 said:
This one I would argue with. The security of being able to hobble home on Front Wheel Drive, is well worth cost of a SYE in my opinion. The SYE is by no means for driveline vibes, strictly for 'my' piece of mind. You know what I mean? :D
Click to expand...

Prepare, you will be chewed up and spit out for this comment. I will explain.
96 and newer XJs may have a slip yoke at the output shaft but the output shaft has a seal, unlike 95 and older XJs and YJs, where if you took the rear driveshaft off, you would lose fluid. Its fine to drive a newer XJ without the rear shaft.
 
SBrad001 said:
I relatively sure at some point in the future I will switch out the Procomp arms, but the price was right for now.

I plan on either a trackbar or a adjustment bracket for the stock trackbar. Just waiting on finding one that's a good deal.

What do you think of SkyJackers LCAs?

And also, do you think upper adjustable control arms would be a good idea to correct the camber? It is only 3", but even that does affect camber to a certian degree, but is it worth the price of upper control arms?

Thanks for the input thus far guys! I'm really indebted to you for your input.
Click to expand...

Actually the Skyjackers dont look too bad. I dont see a point in the double flex arms though. The only thing they would accomplish is a very harsh and noisy ride.
BTW, your adjustable arms fix CASTER not CAMBER. XJs have a caster adjustment built into the lower control arm mount that is enough for 3" lift.
 
Ray H said:
Prepare, you will be chewed up and spit out for this comment. I will explain.
96 and newer XJs may have a slip yoke at the output shaft but the output shaft has a seal, unlike 95 and older XJs and YJs, where if you took the rear driveshaft off, you would lose fluid. Its fine to drive a newer XJ without the rear shaft.
Click to expand...

WOW?! No SH*T!? Well, see! This is exactly why I had this post up. The something new everyday and maybe even save some money too!

Thanks!
 
Ray H said:
Actually the Skyjackers dont look too bad. I dont see a point in the double flex arms though. The only thing they would accomplish is a very harsh and noisy ride.
BTW, your adjustable arms fix CASTER not CAMBER. XJs have a caster adjustment built into the lower control arm mount that is enough for 3" lift.
Click to expand...


Castor, camber, always get the two term bass-ackwards. :D

Castor is corrected by rotating the axle forwards or backwards though, correct? And castor is the angle that runs thru the hubs front axle/hub joints and angle that it makes runs down to the center of the front tires foot print? If this angle sharpens too much do to lifting, what exactly does it affect in the steering system? Don't we want to keep that imginary line as close to the center of the tire's footprint so that the tires 'want' to come back to center?
 
I wont say you will or wont need a SYE at 3"s. I will say that Im ready for one when I put my 3"s on. I think its more likely you will want one than not. Its not the end of the world if you do, nor is it the end of your budget. Search front driveshaft SYE, hack and tap and so on. It can be done for less than $200.
 
Ray H said:
I wont say you will or wont need a SYE at 3"s. I will say that Im ready for one when I put my 3"s on. I think its more likely you will want one than not. Its not the end of the world if you do, nor is it the end of your budget. Search front driveshaft SYE, hack and tap and so on. It can be done for less than $200.
Click to expand...


Yeah, kits really aren't all that expensive. It's installation isn't a problem with anything on this list except for the re-gearing of the front and rear. I won't touch that one. Everything though. . . I ain't payin' no one to do.
 
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