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Procomp front axle arms

A

Amund2

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Norway
Hi, I've got an XJ with 31x10,5 MT/Rs and they rub the lower radius arms when turning (of course). I've got an offer on a couple of arms from a ProComp 4" kit, do they fix the rubbing? Or do they just allow more drop? On the pictures I've seen they seem to bend away from the axle brackets to allow more drop, but I don't know if the bend away from the wheel to allow full turning. Don't want to buy them if they don't solve my problems..
 
Pro-comp arms are junk anyway!Save your money,the only good thing about the round arms(RE,Rusty's) is they wont damage your tires,they will still rub though!
 
Okay... but what do you suggest? I've seen an article on WJ arms, which are supposed to swing away from the tires, but over here WJ's have king-size price tags, and well, we only have one king, and I'm sure none of his WJ's have wound up in a breaker's yard yet! :)

Why are the Procomp arms crap? And don't they swing away from the tires at all?
 
You can adjust the steering stops that screw into the knuckles. They have nuts that are tack welded on so to adjust them outward you can start with two washers on each steering stop to see if it cures you problem. The other solution would be to change to after market rims with a back spacing of 4.5" instead of the 5.25" that the factory rims have. The rims that I suggest would be 4 Wheel Parts Whse RockCrawler rims that are 15x8 with 4.5" backspacing. They come in black and chrome and are about $42 a rim.
 
All the aftermarket arms are straight!Pro-comp uses to small of a bushing(a new set every couple trips).You havnt said anything about your rig,but as always I recommend RE everything!
 
Maybe I'm being difficult now, but I'd like both to keep my turning radius and still having the wheels far enough in so that they stuff under the fender flares when flexing. I've just gotten new tires and rims and was hoping I wouldn't have to swap rims and have the tires rebalanced and all that, not to mention buying another set of rims... (I'm on a student budget). Are there no aftermarket radius arms that do the trick? How about the WJ arms, have anyone tried that, do they help a lot, or not enough to be worth it? Maybe I could grind a little off my current arms, they have an edge at the bottom, or would the remainder be too weak?
 
The stock arms are weak enough as is.What tires/wheels/lift are we talking about?
 
Amund, try the adjustment Charles suggested first. You may not notice any big difference in your turning radius. I don't know about the WJ arms, can't help you there, but try the easy fix first, then look into your other options.
 
RCP Phx said:
All the aftermarket arms are straight!Pro-comp uses to small of a bushing(a new set every couple trips).You havnt said anything about your rig,but as always I recommend RE everything!
Click to expand...

Yes, I've heard Rubicon Express is good.. or best? Have read nice things about Terraflex as well. Well, I've just bought Old Man Emu and my rig is totally leaning every possible way, and I've spent all my money on tires and engines, and grenaded my tracklok today. :) So there will be no RE kit for me in the first couple of.. years? Don't even know if I can get it over here, and if it's road legal.


My 1986 XJ "tudor": OME, 31x10,5 Goodyear MT/R, 1993 4,0 HO w/AW4 from ZJ, NP231, front D30 with manual disconnect (2wd low if I'll ever need it), D35 with traclok behind witout friction additive, worked surprisingly well, but went to pieces today, will be replaced with a powertrax noslip that's been lying about for a while. Got my license plates last wednesday, tires friday, the diff lasted a week.. :) but it was fun, GREAT piece of machinery! (Well, except the rear diff, but I hope it was metal fatigue)
 
Well, they don't, actually. I'm planning on changing to original rims... is that proper backspacing, or what do you suggest? I've got 2" OME and 31x10,5, so it's really essential that the wheels tuck inside the fenders as well.

I could adjust the steering stops (and am planning to), but first of all the tires steal a LOT of turning radius, okay so my rims are too far inwards, but I'm planning on spacing them out or swapping rims, but I really notice the lack of maneouverability compared to the standard tyres. Another point is that when flexing, the rubbing happens a lot earlier (for instance when turning left and left wheel is dropping). Very annoying. Guess I'll have to get some wheel spacers or different rims and then see how it goes. Haven't fully given up on the idea of the WJ arms, though... are you sure that no aftermarket arms give the wheel more space?
 
Your main problem is "To much tire" at that lift.Stock rims have the most backspace(5") so they will rub the most.If you flex this Jeep at all you should also be rubbing the spring towers!
 
I have the pro-comp arms and I think they are ok if you get them really cheap. Im running 31s and stock rims. Yes they do rub the arms and the spring towers a bit at full stuff , but im planning on gettin some new rims with less BS. Ive been with this setup for more than 8 months now though and its not really that bad.
 
I "gave" mine away (poor sucker),he still complains about them!
 
Amund2 said:
I'm planning on changing to original rims... is that proper backspacing, or what do you suggest? I've got 2" OME and 31x10,5, so it's really essential that the wheels tuck inside the fenders as well.
Click to expand...

The factory rims don't have the proper backspacing for your 10.5" wide tires. Go with the 4 1/2" BS as already suggested. That or the washer adjustment to the stops is the normal solution to your problem. If changing LCA's was the fix, more of the aftermarket builders would be providing them.

You should also consider building up your bump stops. Alot of guys add hard rubber hockey pucks to the spring pad to decrease the amount the tire can stuff into the wheel house. Slight trimming of the fender flair is an option as well.
 
Thanks for the replies. You say 4.5" backspacing, is that with a 8" rim? I have 7" rims with -35mm center offset now, the stock rims are -25 afaik, which translates to something like 2.5" BS? Won't 4.5" BS be a lot? My tires don't seem to have much clearance on the outside, it seems like if I'm moving them 3-4 inches out the fender flares will hit them right in the middle! They now rub the spring towers, as well as the stabilizer, but I'm not noticing that except for the paint being worn off, the problem is the lower control arms, with the MT/R's big lugs the whole car bounces and the wheel almost locks up... guess I'll have to go with adjusting the steering stops for now, and changing rims later on.
 
Amund2 said:
Thanks for the replies. You say 4.5" backspacing, is that with a 8" rim? I have 7" rims with -35mm center offset now, the stock rims are -25 afaik, which translates to something like 2.5" BS? Won't 4.5" BS be a lot? My tires don't seem to have much clearance on the outside, it seems like if I'm moving them 3-4 inches out the fender flares will hit them right in the middle!
Click to expand...

Backspacing measures the same, whether the rim is 8" or 7". From what I've seen, there is a 6" and 7" wheel from the factory and both had 5 1/4" backspacing. This translates to roughly 44mm for the 6" wheel and 32mm for the 7".

This drawing was meant to show wheel bearing offset, but might be of some help.

Jeep_wheels_offset.JPG
 
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