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No Start. CPS?

noresttill

NAXJA Forum User
Location
South Florida
I was driving on the interstate last night and had to accelerate.did so and then my engine cut out. It will not start, just crank. I was looking for the fuel pump relay when I came upon the CPS.

Only thing is, doesn't the CPS let you start it when the engine gets cool?

This morning It wont start either.

Thanks

Jesse
 
Not necessarily.

Heat soak is apparently an issue with the CPS, and you sometimes can start after a cooldown. Even if you can start after a cooldown, before long, it's gonna die completely.

Have you checked for spark yet? This will tell you if the CPS is functioning.
 
I dont have a voltometer. Is there an easier way to test spark? Like pull a plug and watch it? or is that assinine?

In the past, I would drive somewhere, jump out quick and the truck wouldn't start again for a few minutes (like 10). Could this be related to my problem? It was sporadic and even jumping it didn't help.
 
I did have a similar problem last year with it dying on me and not wanting to restart right away. It turned out to be a bad ignition module.
 
noresttill said:
I dont have a voltometer. Is there an easier way to test spark? Like pull a plug and watch it? or is that assinine?

In the past, I would drive somewhere, jump out quick and the truck wouldn't start again for a few minutes (like 10). Could this be related to my problem? It was sporadic and even jumping it didn't help.
Pull and spark plug, ground the electrode to the block, have someone crank it. You should see a nice blue thick spark. Please be careful when doing this, don't shock yourself, wear rubber gloves or something.
If the spark is yellow and thin then it's weak, but even with a weak spark the motor should start.
 
Kreutz said:
I did have a similar problem last year with it dying on me and not wanting to restart right away. It turned out to be a bad ignition module.


It cranks though. If I can jump the starter, then it would prove the ignition is bad right?
 
no. The motor cranking just proves that the motor isn't seized and that the starter is working.
Not running can be caused by fuel issues and spark issues.
Crank the motor for a few seconds. Pull a plug and see if it's wet. If it's wet then you've got fuel.
Dry that plug off, then ground it to the block and crank it.
If you've got spark then the ignition system is working.
If you've got fuel and spark then it's timing related.
If you've got no fuel then test the fuel pressure and investigate the fuel pump electrical and the fuel pump itself.
If you've got no spark then start checking the CPS and other sensors needed for the ECM to turn on the coil pack. If the sensors check out then check the ignition module and the coil pack.
Get back with us with the results.
 
Last edited:
No fuel in the cylinders can still be CPS. Both plugs and injectors are triggered by the ECM.

Check to see if you've got pressure in the fuel rail. Turn the key on, do not bump the starter, let the pump prime. Gently press the Schrader valve, you should get a spray.
 
The plug was dry when I took it out after reving (I did this twice).
So I guess I have a fuel problem.

I tried to ground the spark plug by tying one side of copper wire to the neg battery and the other side to the "hook" at the end of the spark plug (Im the only one here, so I needed to crank it)
I got no spark. How did those unrelated components go out at the same time?

I was looking in my FSM and was trying to find the fuses and relays for the fuel system and couldn't find anything that told me which fuse does what (I cant read electrical diagrams if that is where they are)

When I stopped last night I noticed a relay on the floor board, turns out it fell of during DW (yeah I went from DW to the engine cutting out, I was so scared!). I find that Its for the horn, but could something else have come out, or loose, too? All the fuses were good in the fuse box and I didn't see anything on the floor.

Again thanks a lot, you all are saving me.

Jesse
 
Thanks everyone, but I had to sent it to Mike, the family mechanic. It has never been to a mech before. I should probably send a security blanket with her in caseshe gets cold and scared
 
Update:

Turns out that a wiring harness got too close to the exhaust manufold and burned away the rubber insulation on the wire running to the Distribuor Ignition Coil. after replacing the dic once, drove down the street a ways, hit a bump and the wire shorted out the new DIC.

Problem now solved, and I feel better about going to the shop as I would have probably replaced more things that didn't need replacing. Live and learn.

Thanks for all the help, though.

Jesse
 
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