Help!

Normally I would do a lengthy search, BUT it's 11 p.m. here and I have a pissed-off wife with a three week old in the house (meaning I'm outside having "fun" and she's inside doing all the work) and oldies for neighbors on both sides. I'm doing an AAL, and after getting all the leaves together with the center pin, the axle seems to have moved back (and somewhat to the side). How can I get the head of the center pin back in its place? Also, to allow more axle droop, I "undid" the lower rear shock bolt. By "undid" I mean that I snapped it off right at the beginning of the nut. Can I just drill a new hole higher up?

EDIT: As more time goes by without a response, is it safe/advisable to leave it as is (the rear on jack stands with both wheels off and the axle sort of dangling) for a day? Tomorrow is supposed to be all rain. I might have to put up a canopy or something, I guess.

Wish I'd been able to reply earlier, but I had connection issues this AM. USe a comealong (cable hand winch available at most parts stores for @$25) to pull the axle foorward again.

Try a come-a-long to pull it in the correct direction.Put a jack under it to push it up.
The shock mount ???Replace the bolt ?Cut off and weld in another one ?
You can leave it on the stands,it won,t hurt anything.
Wayne

Cool, I have a come-a-long, ratchet straps, and a welder.
I'm actually really interested in the possibility of moving the shock bolt up about an inch, if that's mechanically sound. I'm not getting new shocks (only a 2" B.B. and the shocks are in great shape) and had planned to build B.P.E./extenders all around anyway (kind of like on Ed. Stevens's page).
For the axle part, would attaching the strap/come-a-long to the rear leg of my rock rails be good enough? I would think so, but everything I've done to this I've had to do by myself because only one of my friends is into 'wheeling/working on vehicles and he has a Tacoma.

What ever ya got thats solid.Cross member,rock rail ,bumper.What ever is in the right direction.
Wayne

Thanks, Wayne. I packed up my stuff and headed for a couple cold ones to cool off. My wife was actually kind of laughing (not in a mean way) because the last time I really had trouble was when every upper rear shock bolt broke and my mechanic refused to do the work for me. Needless to say, it was a blessing in disguise (I had to learn to do it myself--very rewarding) and that was the last time the XJ's been to a mechanic--over two years now. It just kind of sucks that none of my friends are into anything automotive.

Anyone have any insight into drilling a new rear lower shock hole about an inch higher than the stock one? I think I'm just going to do it and use some 1/8" steel plate to box the whole damn thing in. That brings up another question, though. I taught myself how to weld (flux-core wire welder); do I need to disconnect the battery when welding on the truck? It would seem to be a good idea to me.

Thanks for the help again, Wayne and Carnuck. The come-a-long worked great hooked to one of my rail's legs. I'm still stuck on the shock bolts, though. I've searched now and the consensus seems to be to cut them off as close as possible, then drill out the remainder. Not looking forward to it, but I guess that's the simplest option.

Cut the shock bolt off flush with the large round 1/3" thick "washer" that is part of the bracket. By that, I mean cut off the side that used to have the threads on it. Use a 4" angle grinder and remove any remainder of the bolt flat down to the "washer". Center punch in the middle of the "washer" so your drill won't walk and drill thru to the other side for a 1/2 - 13 threads per inch bolt about 3 -4 inches long. Pick a length of bolt that gives the same amount sticking out as on the good side. On the other side that looks like the head of a carraige bolt, grind a flat spot for the new 1/2 -13 bolt head to rest on and be welded to. I turned a bushing/spacer at work for the shoulder ( non threaded area ) that the shock rubber bushing rests on. You could maybe use a spacer from a poly shackle bushing or something like that. Make it short enough so that the shock bushing and shock washer can snug tight enough. The local hardware store has a rack of bushings, spacers and other stuff just around the corner from the nuts and bolts that you could also look through. Install all the parts and take it to someone who has a 220V welder. You will need more juice than a 110V welder to weld that new bolt head to the backside of the bracket.

I spent about a week fitting and welding my bumper and rock rails at work. I was worried about the computer and air bags more that the battery as I welded. I disconnected the battery at first, but one night I forgot to and it didn't seem to hurt anything. It been about 2yrs now and I still have the same battery.

Thanks for the advice, Tim. Much appreciated.

I got my replacement shock bolts in the "Help!" section. You can also buy weld on shock mounts for the axle tube.

carnuck said:

I got my replacement shock bolts in the "Help!" section. You can also buy weld on shock mounts for the axle tube.

Click to expand...

I got the bolts with split bushings in the "Help!" section, but I ended stopping by a small shop next to my parents' church to see what they thought. $20 to torch out the old bolts and then $10 to weld the new ones in was totally worth it to me. I spent more than that on drill bits when I put my shocks on last year. I know it's kind of copping out, but with two young children at home I wanted it done fast and right. I know I would have done it right, but the fast part is where my wife and I would have seen it differently.