• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

steering question *pics*

mack

mack

NAXJA Forum User
Location
gone fishin....
i just replaced my factory tierod with the Rusty's HEAVY DUTY Tierod with the bigger ends. I installed it with the over-the-knuckle sleeve on the drivers side.

the tierod clears everything at static ride height. will the geometry change enough as the suspension cycles to where it'll hit anything?:lecture: or does it stay the same?
tierod003.jpg

tierod004.jpg

tierod002.jpg
 
Last edited:
mack said:
i just replaced my factory tierod with the Rusty's HEAVY DUTY Tierod with the bigger ends. I installed it with the over-the-knuckle sleeve on the drivers side.

the tierod clears everything at static ride height. will the geometry change enough as the suspension cycles to where it'll hit anything?:lecture: or does it stay the same?
tierod003.jpg

tierod004.jpg

tierod002.jpg
Click to expand...
I think your only big concern should be the drivers side tierod to the sway bar mount interference: are you sure it's clearing it when you turn to full lock both ways?
 
yes, at full lock, it all clears, i cut off the d.side swaybar mount.
 
i haven't run a swaybar in about a year.
boomhauer said:
Are you not going to run a front swaybar at all?
Click to expand...
 
i tried to jack it up, but it would not go high enough to check, my biggest worry is the factory steering stablizer mount, is there any other way to mount the stablizer?
 
Last edited:
mack said:
i tried to jack it up, but it would not go high enough to check, my biggest worry is the factory steering stablizer mount, is there any other way to mount the stablizer?
Click to expand...
Unless I'm missing something the position of hte stabilizer didn't change much (if any).
 
i really don't know how to word this, but, lets say that when the pass side tire is stuffed, will the space from the tierod to the stablizer stay the same, or does it get closer to it?
 
i have some idea of where you are comeing from and the answer is no the front will stay close enough to the neutral position that you SHOULD NOT have any issues, when you take it out the first time paint the while thing fresh and then look for wear marks. if there is any they will be miniscule and i would not worrie if not then deal with it, i know people who arnt running any stabalizer at all with no issues so that is where i stand with what you showed in the pics, no worries
 
thanks, thats what i wanted to hear, i'll keep a lookout for any wear marks on the tierod, just in case, does anyone make an aftermarket stablizer mount?
 
mack said:
does anyone make an aftermarket stablizer mount?
Click to expand...
well, if you have a welder (i see in the pics you do ) and about $10 for some metal, than you can, its easy. you can raise it on the pax side by 1.5" or you could get a plate and some u bolts and move the mount out away from the Y link / cross link or engineere what you need. pm for help if needed.

HTH

P.S. where are you located ( besides above your post count )?
 
waaaaaayyyyy over on the Eastcoast, do you have any pics of your setup? i seen a while back you had kinda the same deal.
 
Picture this. No matter what your front axle does, the tie rod is basically going to remain on the same plain and parallel in front of the axle. Now, looking at the axle from the front, try to picture a situation where the axle would interfere with the stabilizer. I dont think theres any way you could get the front axle to compress enough to contact the stabilizer because as you flex and one side compresses, the other side is drooping. Even if you were to bottom out the front suspension so that both sides compress, it would have to compress enough so that the tierod would be up where the pitman arm is before the tierod would contact the stabilizer.
 
If you havent already done it, you need to put cotter pins in the TRE's. It would really suck for you and anybody else on the road if the nuts came loose and fell off and you lost control of the Jeep and died.

I havent run a steering stabilizer in almost 3 years now. I ditched it when I went over the knuckle steering with 1 ton ends on the Dana 30 which was a waste of time and effort and had no problems. I also have the same type of steering setup on my HP Dana 44 and dont have any issues with no stabilizer. I did have to modify the sway bar end links and coil buckets for everything to clear.

AARON
 
i did, the cotter pins went it after i fitted it all up.
 
Not related to your original question but do yourself a favor...coat the threads on the tierod ends with antisieze if you havent already.

I had the JKS solid tierod and when i needed to replace a tierod end it was seized on there, broke the threaded portion of the tierod end off in the JKS tierod rendering it useless. It's now an $80 prybar.
 
it works well, i ran my set up like that for about 6 months before i went to the 44, knuckle to knuckle is the way to do it :D
 
rustys has a dual kit that has a plate that bolts onto front diff and u bolts and a plate for frnt tie rod but i guess you got the tie rod from them so....
 
I'm having clearance issues with the steering stabilizer contacting the ball joint connecting the tie rods. I dont think it contacts under suspension compression alone, but when the steering is turned to the driver side and the passenger wheel droops, it contacts. The diameter of the stabilizer is larger than stock tho.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Steering Redo.... Questions before I dive in.
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
RCP Phx
R
T
XJ shackle with custom springs question.
Replies
11
Views
205
XJlimitedx99
X
M
Test fitting RC 4.5" long arm on 2000 XJ
Replies
10
Views
4K
RCP Phx
R
T
Death Wobble Questions (I searched first)
Replies
11
Views
3K
Anak
Anak
U
Steering/Stock Axles/Brakes/Etc
Replies
5
Views
385
jeep ride
J
Back
Top