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88 Comanche long bed

partsxj

partsxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Freehold, NJ
Has this already been asked?

4.0, BA10, 231.

All factory skid plates. Front, transfer case, and fuel tank.

Some ideas are replace the MJ Dana 35 with the XJ Chrysler 8.25.
Swap in a XJ Dana 30 with ABS. For the bigger u-joints.
Go with the matching 3.55's for now.
Lift the front to even it out.
Bolt on some 31's and evaluate.
 
partsxj said:
Has this already been asked?

4.0, BA10, 231.

All factory skid plates. Front, transfer case, and fuel tank.

Some ideas are replace the MJ Dana 35 with the XJ Chrysler 8.25.
Swap in a XJ Dana 30 with ABS. For the bigger u-joints.
Go with the matching 3.55's for now.
Lift the front to even it out.
Bolt on some 31's and evaluate.
Click to expand...



the only question posed is your has this already been asked? Has whet been asked?
 
I was wondering what the long wheelbase MJ's have done to get on the trails.
I was wondering if there was an ultimate long wheelbase MJ plan.
 
Ultimate long bed MJ? yea mine!!

Ditch the BA10 and put in an AW4
If your gonna get serious about wheeling then you need something other than a 35 out back, I've got a 44 and its ideal for my situation. The long bed has got a bad reputation because of the overhand out back behind the axle so your departure angle sucks, but my truck has virtually no rear bumper and does very well in the rocks

Mine is an 88 so ask away on the questions.
 
Just make a truggy out of it.. Like I did. Personally I wouldnt swap a 8.25 in, it is just as much work as swapping in a 8.8. and the 8.8 is a stronger axle. The limiting factor is what ratios you can get for them, but that is a limiting factor on the 8.25 as well. As for the front, why swap the whole axle when all you have to do is swap out to the bigger shafts, and incindentally I would wait to do that until you broke the smaller ones. Just pack them as trail spares.


As for the ultimate build on a MJ. There are some pretty seriously built ones on here. So the only thing that is your limit is how much coin you want to drop on it, and what your skill level is.


Here is a link to My buildup. Matt ove at Independent4x is doing all the cage work, as I dont have the skills to do it, but I think it is pretty built. After this phase of buildup, full widths and links front and rear will be next, after my wallet recovers from the build.

http://independent4x.com/generic67.html

Patrick
 
cj7xjmj said:
Just make a truggy out of it.. Patrick
Click to expand...

PM Eagle, he'll get you started in the right direction.
 
A truggy? That looks great but a little extreme for me. $$. I have been looking for a Dana 44 with not much luck. I have the rears and that would keep the costs down. Leaving the front alone till it breaks, good idea. Thanks.
I have the disconnect front axle. What needs to be done to swap in the one piece axle on the right side?
I also saw that the ZJ rear disc is a bolt on to the 8.25. Another plus or minus?
Thanks for the ideas. Ken.
 
I never understand the reason for change of non disco??? a few welds and the axle housing is very strong and Ive never seen the coupler fail. it is also ver nice to have in the snow when locked up front
 
I hear a lot of discussion about the disconnect axle. Mostly negative. I have never had a problem. Changed the vacuum harness and it works.
I have a couple of questions.
What about the posi-lok? Good idea or just a marketing ploy?
Lockers in the front? Detroit tru-trac or Detroit locker? I would think that with the axle disconnected either of these should be ok. I hear the locker requires a lot of attention while driving. I am thinking of making this a trail machine to be driven there and back. How would it be in 4wd on a snowy, icy road?
 
partsxj said:
I hear a lot of discussion about the disconnect axle. Mostly negative. I have never had a problem. Changed the vacuum harness and it works.
I have a couple of questions.
What about the posi-lok? Good idea or just a marketing ploy?
Lockers in the front? Detroit tru-trac or Detroit locker? I would think that with the axle disconnected either of these should be ok. I hear the locker requires a lot of attention while driving. I am thinking of making this a trail machine to be driven there and back. How would it be in 4wd on a snowy, icy road?
Click to expand...

its a good Idea, and I will be selling a version for testing in the next few weeks, about half the price of the posi lock and easier to put in

a locker just requires differnt driving stylee. for the most part with a locker the inside wheel is driving instead of the outside wheel, so in slippery conditions it has a tendancy to want to kick the rear out..
 
The way I did the swap on my VD axle was to use ad44 seal in the outer part of the vacum housing. The part number is CR13165 I believe. i wil verify this tommorrow for your. I have personally seen the shift fork fail (break) and leave a man in a bad spot. For a front locker I would run a Lock right. A detroit is a lot more expensive, and really not needed upfront. To be honest I never notice the locker up front until I put here in 4-lo. The rear is another story. If you have the coin I would go with a selectable locker for the rear. If not a Detriot would be nice, pricey though, also they make a lockright for the rear as well.


As for the Posi-loc thingy... they fail as well. the rely on a cable, to move a shift fork. so now you have just as much stress on the shift fork, and a cable that you have to rely on working. To me the solid passenger side shaft is the only way to go.


Patrick
 
cj7xjmj said:
The way I did the swap on my VD axle was to use ad44 seal in the outer part of the vacum housing. The part number is CR13165 I believe. i wil verify this tommorrow for your. I have personally seen the shift fork fail (break) and leave a man in a bad spot. For a front locker I would run a Lock right. A detroit is a lot more expensive, and really not needed upfront. To be honest I never notice the locker up front until I put here in 4-lo. The rear is another story. If you have the coin I would go with a selectable locker for the rear. If not a Detriot would be nice, pricey though, also they make a lockright for the rear as well.


As for the Posi-loc thingy... they fail as well. the rely on a cable, to move a shift fork. so now you have just as much stress on the shift fork, and a cable that you have to rely on working. To me the solid passenger side shaft is the only way to go.


Patrick
Click to expand...

Do you actualy know how little force it takes to move those parts? about 2.5 to 3 psi.....you can move the parts with an eye dropper....while the axle is moving. less when static. The stress on the cable is about 1/1000 that on your accelerator cable, how long will it last?

as for the fork failing, you can prop the collar into place with just about anything.....likek a few winds of tape or string or wire or..........
 
I understand it doesnt take3 much force. I have broke a shift fork, and it was a PITA to fix, especially on the trail. AS for the Posi-lock thingy... There are a 100 different ways fo doing it, and I found it just easier to spend 12 on a seal, and to find a 1 piece shaft for the passenger side. Thats just my opinion.

I know 1 person who had a posi lock fail him on the Outer banks (beach wheeling) and of cousre he was stuck at the time. Luckily some one came along and winched him out.



Patrick
 
Its amazing how just you have witnessed this 3 times and not anyone else? curious...I would be you have no pictures of these 3 incidents HUH? LOL
 
I too broke vac 30 shift forks... twice. There will not be a third time -for me- ever again. Sure, it's easy to fix... in two feet of snow the 1st time and after getting owned on Tellico trail 11 the 2nd time.

Back to the original poster's question... regear, SOA rear axle (44, 8.8, 8.25?) front coils & brakelines + a little fender/wheelwell seam trimming up front = 33" easy, maybe 35" or just put an AAL and coil spacers for 31" not worry about gearing.

Junk the factory transfer skid before it gets torn off and turned to trail litter... Lose the front skid,
 
woody said:
I too broke vac 30 shift forks... twice. There will not be a third time -for me- ever again. Sure, it's easy to fix... in two feet of snow the 1st time and after getting owned on Tellico trail 11 the 2nd time.

Back to the original poster's question... regear, SOA rear axle (44, 8.8, 8.25?) front coils & brakelines + a little fender/wheelwell seam trimming up front = 33" easy, maybe 35" or just put an AAL and coil spacers for 31" not worry about gearing.

Junk the factory transfer skid before it gets torn off and turned to trail litter... Lose the front skid,
Click to expand...

must have to do with frozen parts........as woody said loose the factory shovels and get reilable skids
 
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