Planning new project, D60/14Bolt

I just got a 1998 2 door sport with real low mileage (hit in rear). I am planning the build and would like any advice or criticism.

I have a new 14 bolt with 4:56's and a detroit. I am looking for a Dana 60 (hp, drivers side diff). I talked with some people in the know and they said they could change the 14 bolt over to discs and different hubs and get it to 63" wide. I think my current D44 is about 61" wide, I could live with another 2". They gave me a very good price to shorten and set up the front D60 for either coils or coil-overs. I was going to run either one of JB Conversions 231 or an Atlas. I was wondering if the added weight of the 60/14bolt has given anybody problems? I do remember meeting a guy in Jersey with a shortened D60 up front and he was very happy with it.

This XJ will be driven locally by my wife so I don't want to cut any corners. I want to use 35" tires. Right now she drives a 90 with 4.88's, 33's and I feel that it is a little overgeared for highway driving. ( we live in New York City, it is at least an hour to anything resembling a trail). So I want to get this one set up correct. It needs to be able to drive to the mountains, wheel all weekend, AND GET US BACK HOME SAFE. Any info would be welcome, John Burke

You'll be digging trenches in your favorite trails with a 14 bolts and 35's. There is no reason to go one ton with 35's, either up-size your tires or down-size your axles. 37's at least, 38's better.

Remember, you need a certain minimum amount of lift just to get the 60 in there, I would say 6 inches is bare minimum, with 8 inches being more realistic. If you feel that is too tall, you might think of running smaller running gear.

I did think of that, I was going to go with Rock Krawlers 8" lift. The only reason I wanted to stick with 35's was to try to keep a little grasp on fuel economy ($2.60 a gallon in NY). I know that is a bull#$@% excuse, but if it wasn't for fuel and heating prices, I would live like a king. I figured after she drove it for a few years with 35's, we would make it a more trail oriented rig with 38's. Believe me, she was pushing me for a set of 38's.

Pushing those axles around, you may as well forget about fuel economy. The front is about 550 lbs, the rear about 275. Not to mention the energy it takes to move a 10.5 inch ring gear in the rear down the road.

If you are planning 38's in the future, I would gear to at least 5.13's, and preferably 5.38's, as the little 4.0 is going to have some issues unless you are spinning at least 3,000 RPM on the highway.

As an example, I run 3k on the freeway with half-ton running gear, fully loaded at 5k lbs, and I get 17ish with a 4.6 liter stroker. Don't be afraid to spin the little motor, it really is very happy up around 3k.

john, sent you a pm

Can't gear the 14 bolt below 5.13 and they are hard to get (back order for months) get a rear 60 if you're going that route at least you can gear it lower and upgrade to 35 spline shafts if ya need to.

tighttrailxj said:

( we live in New York City, it is at least an hour to anything resembling a trail). So I want to get this one set up correct. It needs to be able to drive to the mountains, wheel all weekend, AND GET US BACK HOME SAFE. Any info would be welcome, John Burke

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D60's are not a solution to driving like a trailored rig but having to drive it home. With d60s and 35s you are going to think you cant brake a thing and will hammer it, in reality d60s on 37s kinda sucks 35s even worse, and there are lots of other things to brake: susupension, drive shafts, T-case, steering, no roll cage...

I would keep it jeep axles do the 6-8in lift run 35s and carry spare parts and tools and drive it like driver not a trail rig.

Get your wife a big suburban on 35s so it can tow your cherokee trail rig on 1tons.

I do have a 14bolt the narrow 63in width, Shipping to New york would suck.... my buddie is selling it, let me know.

Hey ash, do you by any chance know what that rear is out of. I have a 14 bolt that looks really narrow. I was told it might be out of a 80 something camper special 1 ton chevy? I have not had a chance to look much into 14 bolts yet.

ipkyss said:

Hey ash, do you by any chance know what that rear is out of. I have a 14 bolt that looks really narrow. I was told it might be out of a 80 something camper special 1 ton chevy? I have not had a chance to look much into 14 bolts yet.

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Ours is a 1979 chevy 1ton duallie rear end, It has 4.10 gears.

here is a big ass picture before we parted the truck out.
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/albums/Ashman/100_0094.jpg

Ashman, thanks for the input. I don't want to upgrade to that large an axle to hammer on it, just to have a little extra assurance. I already have a tow rig and the only time she gets to drive it is when I am in no shape to. I do have access to axles, including a brand new (not rebuilt) 14bolt out of a mid 80's CUCV.
I think a huge advantage over our current D30 setup would be locking hubs. I have also broken pinion gears in our powr-loc and am dreading popping some teeth off the ring. ( especially without the ability to unlock hubs and still get home, or at least off the trail)
Thanks for the input, maybe I will start looking under some trucks for a front D44 to match the rear.