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crossmember bolts?

J98cherokee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Carolina
Ive got my skid plate bolted to the back two bolts for the crossmember,one going in frame one coming out or two coming out cant remember exactly, anyways, there are hardly any threads to grab for the nut on the crossmember and I dont really trust it...the bolt doesnt even stick out of the nut is there anyway to extend them or anything? seems difficult seeing as though some are coming out of the frame.

***Also, I was pulling someone out in reverse and 4 hi and I was giving it just enough gas so my tires wouldnt spin but I wasnt moving and I heard a real loud pop so i figured i broke something but everythings working fine except for a little transfer case leak which im not sure when it started...is it possible to have so much torque built up that you like...jump a tooth on a gear without breaking? anyone cracked a x-case?


D30, 8.25 stock TW d-shaft, 32's
 
you may wanna check your frt. drive shaft ujoints and axle shaft u joints
 
There's usually one bolt and one stud/nut on each side of the crossmember. You can get longer bolts from a hardware store and get rid of the studs.
 
To remove the crossmember studs that are diagonally opposed.... you can double nut the stud and twist them out. Purchasing a bolt that is 1 inch longer should work fine....

Charles
 
no, go through the bottom. there is a nut welded in place inside it. be careful removing the stud so that you dont break the weld
 
ok so let me get this straight...the stud is screwed into a tac welded nut inside the frame and i can twist the stud and it will come out of the nut? then just put a new bolt up in there.
 
You are correct. Make sure you hit it with PB Blaster for a couple of days before you try to remove it. Mine wouldn't break loose...the double nut trick didn't work so I used vise grips. Busted the weldnut in the frame and ended up having to fish a bolt through the frame. What a pain in the @ss! Good luck!
 
I tried vice grips and double nutting, but neither one worked for me. I highly recommened a stud extractor. I bought mine from Sears. It took me all of about 30 seconds to remove the studs.
 
mine were a bitch to get out...didnt try double nutting it, but i tried visegrips, didnt work. Tried to find a stud extractor. everywhere i went talked to me like i was some dumb kid. One guy even said "thats just a mechanic's joke. no such thing". Screw off, i know what i'm talking about. Anyways, we just tackwelded the nuts that are already on there, onto the studs. But you may wanna lower your crossmember first, cus there is a tiny lip that prevents the stud from falling through the x-member. I didnt realize it, so after i tackwelded, and backed out the studs, i had to cut them off with an angle grinder. So, if you have access to a welder, lower your x-member past the studs, tackweld the nuts on, back them out, and then replace with bolts. Came out real smooth when i did it that way. good luck
 
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