No Start

93 cherokee sport, 2wd, 4.0. It dosen't crank when I turn the key. I replaced the following
crank position sensor
cleaned Nss
distributer cap
Rotor
wires
plugs
coil
Starter/Solenoid tested at autozone and passed.
automatic shutdown relay
Starter relay
wires and Ground look fine.
Any advise would be appreciated. Thank you, very much.

If you have and automatic trans, check the neutral position sensor. They have been known to be problematic.

I took apart my Neutral Safety Switch and cleaned it. I'm just not getting any spark. Thank you.

You checked the starter. But try whackin it a few times with a hammer.

Tried that but it didn't work. I'm thinking it's electrical.

I swamped mine in water and had a similar issue... turned out it was the connection to the fuel pump... it would work while running, but not in the START position of the keyswitch. I hot wired it by jumping a power wire to the ballast resistor in the driver side front corner of the engine bay.. looks like ceramic piece with 2 wires running out of it. .. now I have to turn key on for 15 sec then crank it so the pump charges the fuel rail and the injectors can work right..
hope it helps.
-bc

Interesting, my buddy put engine cleaner and hosed down the engine. How exactly would I hot wire the ballast resistor? since there are two wires connected to the resistor which one would I connect the hot wire to? and where does the hot wire start at. I think your on to something. Thank you.

You can try a key-on hot switch jumper(Pass side engine compartment under plastic panel closest holes towards distributor) find a hot wire.. (please use at least 10 guage wire) run it across the engine compartment and splice into the wire on resistor towards the headlights (though it shouldn't matter since supplying power there will go both directions).
If that works..
the best way to find a good wire is under the dash.. on the steering column, the key switch.. if you get it to where you can look at it.. find the big wires. (yellow, i think) test them with the key in different spots with a test light to find one that switches on with the key. and then splice into them there and run it back to the ballast resistor throught he fire wall. That way you will have a tidy wire. Often if you leave the original jumper on.. your fuel pump will run continuously.. listen for it before it kills your battery.

wiring is incredibly important... make sure it is neat, and no bare wires exist when you are done!

and good luck!
-bc

I blew an upper radiator hose once and got fluid in the TPS switch. The Jeep was running and just shut off. Had to take it appart and dry it out. Ran fine after that. Mine was in an '89, yours may respond differently

It's something to consider, Thank you. I will try the "hot switch" this weekend.