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Por-15 paint, body and underneath

WVXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
WestVirginia
So i discovered this paint and was wondering if i could use it to paint the body? I also wanted to paint the underside, axles, basically all metal, but is there anything underneath that should not be painted, or covered before painting? Also, what should i expect to pay for a paint job and will a body shop also paint the underside stuff? Any help would be greatly appreciated, i tried to search but couldn't find the answers i needed. I have no tools for painting and don't think i could do it myself, but thought i might buy the paint myself and take it to them to do, however they may not use a paint they're unfamiliar with? Anyone know anything about this process?
 
POR-15
COMPLETE DIRECTIONS FOR USE

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POR-15 is a rust preventive coating designed for direct application over clean, grease free rusty surfaces, as well as concrete, wood, fiberglass etc. POR15 dries to a rock hard, nonporous finish that won't crack, chip or peel and resists temperatures of up to 700 degrees Fahrenheit. It prevents further rusting by creating a non-porous barrier between metal and moisture. It can be used in any application where a permanent rust free finish is desired. It is unlike any other paint or coating you may have used in the past so please take the time to read these instructions carefully before proceeding.

Step 1. Washing - All surfaces to be painted must be absolutely clean and free of grease. At this point all loose flaking material or multiple layers of rust must be removed. Any moisture trapped within these multiple layers of oxidation will cause rusting later on. Wash with a water-based degreaser such as Marine Clean followed by a heavy rinsing with clear water is necessary to insure a clean surface. The use of a water-based product is important so as to avoid the possibility of a solvent film or residue, which will impede the adherence of POR-15.

Marine Clean is packaged in a concentrated form and must be diluted with water. A minimum ratio of 1:1 is necessary. It may be diluted up to 10 parts water to 1 part cleaner depending on the amount of dirt or grime to be removed. It may be diluted even further and used as a household cleaner on walls, floors, counter tops or as a pre-wash on grease stained clothing. Apply Marine Clean with a spray bottle or brush and allow it to soak before rinsing. If Marine Clean appears to dry too quickly, add more water. Repeat as necessary until parts are perfectly clean. A scouring pad may be used on heavily soiled areas. Allow several hours for excess water to drip off. Complete drying is not necessary, but preferred before proceeding with Metal-Ready. NOTE: If the surface is still wet, the surface will require more Metal-Ready.

Step 2. Etching - Metal-Ready is a phosphoric based acid etch that is applied at full strength after degreasing to temporarily neutralize rust and leave a coating of zinc phosphate which will aid in the adhesion of paint. This is especially important on areas that contain new metal and/or welds. The surface should remain wet for a minimum of twenty (20) minutes before rinsing with clear water. Scuffing surfaces while rinsing will insure an even higher level of adhesion. If it is not possible or convenient to rinse with a water hose it is acceptable to remove all excess Metal Ready with a clean sponge and fresh water. At this point the surfaces to be painted must be allowed to dry completely. This means bone dry. A hair dryer or heat gun can be used to expedite this process. If moisture is trapped beneath the surface of the paint, oxidation will occur. Metal-Ready can also be used as a complete rust remover if left in contact with the metal for a longer period of time. Soaking parts in a non-metallic container of Metal-Ready for 24-48 hours will completely remove all rust and prepare the surfaces for paint. Exterior body panels can be made rust free with the use of a scuff pad and Metal-Ready.

Step 3. POR-15 can be applied by brush at full strength or diluted a maximum of 5% with POR 15 Solvent only, before spraying. It should be stirred and not shaken before each use. Regardless of what method you choose, POR-15 will dry to a completely smooth finish leaving no brush marks. It is recommended to dilute as little as possible in order to retain the full strength of the paint. An exact dilution rate is not given, as this will vary with temperature, humidity, equipment and line pressure. Test spray a small area and adjust as necessary. Full gloss finish 30-35 psi, lower gloss 20-25 psi. Lacquer thinner may be used for clean up. A disposable air filter must be installed directly on your spray gun in addition to any other filters or traps in the air supply system. POR-15 is moisture sensitive and even minute amounts of moisture will cause failure of the paint before it has cured. These filters are available from your POR-15 supplier.

A minimum of two thin coats (1-2 mil) is to be applied with approximately 4-5 hours between coats. This will vary depending on humidity levels. POR-15 will dry faster at high humidity, but normal humidity is the desired condition. When the first coat is no longer tacky, but will not transfer paint to your finger when touched, the second coat should be applied. Follow the same procedure when top coating with other paints or body fillers. If the second coat is applied too soon, bubbles will form as the base coat releases carbon dioxide in the drying process. If the second coat is applied too late it will not adhere because of the slick surface and will peel.

Step 4. POR-15 is UV sensitive. The chemical that gives paint its ultra-violet protection causes a slight weakness in paint and it is for this reason it is not present in POR-15. If the surface painted with POR-15 is in direct exposure to the sun, it must be top coated to retain its finish. You may use any type or solvent base of paint or fillers, except a clear to achieve this. The usual result of an unprotected finish exposed to the sun is a complete loss of color with no return of oxidation. POR-15 Self-Etching Primer is recommended for use on tacked up or completely cured POR-15 surfaces before applying a Top Coat. Use POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer for surfaces in need of a high build primer which sands smooth before Top Coating. Ask your POR-15 distributor or dealer for information on our extensive line of incredibly tough, UV protected finish coatings.

Safety considerations. POR-15 contains isocyanates. Because of this you must take the necessary precautions to avoid the inhaling of the paint fumes. When spraying POR-15 in an enclosed area, the use of an outside air source system is required. When brushing, you will create fewer fumes but still must insure adequate ventilation. Keep out of reach of children and pets, etc. Harmful or fatal if swallowed.
 
Yes, thats the stuff, now is anyone familiar with painting the "belly of the beast"? Can i just lift it and spray? i.e. any sensors or anything going to get fouled up by paint? urethane? grease points? Any auto painters here know if a shop will do this or is it considered a do it yourself thing? They do have a uv resistant paint to topcoat the regular por 15, but i was wondering if anyone had used it on the body and how it looked finished and clearcoated? Maybe there's a better rust proofing body paint?
 
I used POR-15 on the frame, axles and springs of my 2A and on some rust spots on my XJ. If the surface is prepared well, it sticks like glue and is rock hard. If not, it peels right off. The surface being painted needs to be totally clean of any grease, dirt, etc and treated with their Metal-Ready. I don't know about you but there is no way I could get the underside of my XJ that clean. My personal opinion is that it would be a waste of money and a major PITA to paint a whole vehicle with POR-15. I guess it could be done - similar to Herculiner on the entire XJ - but I sure wouldn't want to do it.
 
I guess it can be sprayed but most people brush it on. You will want to get a bunch on cheap brushes because it can't be removed from the brush of your skin when it dries. It's black but looks some what like tar so it would look like hell on the body. The sun will fade in quicky to gray.
 
I painted the entire undercarriage by hand. I dropped the gas tank and most of the suspension was off as I was also doing a lift at the time. I wire brushed the worst rust and prepped as recommended. It was a bit of a pain lying on my back, but I got it done. We'll see how it holds up. If you are going to spray it I would leave it to a pro. The stuff is nasty. I got some on my arms and in my hair. I was wearing it for weeks.
 
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