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Gear pattern help

snbeard71

NAXJA Forum User
Location
idaho
Gear pattern help

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This is as close as Ive been able to get them. Thanks for any advice.

HP D44 5.38
BL is 7


Drive side
skgi_805093_8095.JPG



Cost side
skgi_805096_7735.JPG



I cant get did of the straight line at the root
 
so what is the pinion prepload at??
if its within specs I would try adding .03 to the pinion shims

theat coast side would be unacceptable for me

drive side is OK ..you will be suprised howmuch a drive side wont change(sometimes)

heres my coast side before I buttoned it up

d44coast.jpg
 
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I put .003 in and here is what I got

Coast
skgi_805185_30815.JPG


Drive
skgi_805188_266.JPG


The pinion preload is not set yet I need to go get a 200+ tork wench
 
your supposed to torque it down to spec before ya move on to setting backlash and gear pattern. the pattern your showing in the las pic looks good torque the pinion down to spec and recheck everything. what did ya end up with for lash?
 
looks a little better to me
well ya got the pattern towards the toe ,,that coast side was way to close to the heel

try adding another .002

as far as pinion preload Im not sure what yoiu mean by a
200+ tork wench

yoiu need to use a inch pound torque wrench
I used a beam type about $50.. not great but it works
but the real nice one are dial indicator @ $200

like this one
http://www.parktool.com/wheretobuy/localsearch.asp
0r a fish scale ( dont ask ..i wouldn never suggest it but it has been done)
 
I put another .003 in.
BL is.007


coast
skgi_805275_18787.JPG


drive
skgi_805281_1729.JPG


Have I gone too far?

Don't you have to torque the pinion nut to like 200+ pounds and check preload
 
snbeard71 said:
I put another .003 in.
BL is.007

Have I gone too far?

Don't you have to torque the pinion nut to like 200+ pounds and check preload


naa I think its good

as far as the pinion nut
Im not sure what the torque spec is for a D44..I dont think its quite 200lbs
but not sure

and yes you have to torque to spec befor you can check pinion preload

I would do afinal pattern after yoiu get EVERYTHING to spec


and do a proper break in
 
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I'd take that last .003 out, That 2nd pattern looks better than the first. you're hittin too much toward the flank on the 3rd pattern, and considering your bl is only at 7 when it's suppose to be in the teens. Taking .002-.003 should help a good bit. don't worry about the back lash too much right now, just so long as it's close get the best pattern that you can and then use side shims to correct the BL.
 
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Panthers65 said:
and considering your bl is only at 7 when it's suppose to be in the teens. Taking .002-.003 should help a good bit. don't worry about the back lash too much right now, just so long as it's close get the best pattern that you can and then use side shims to correct the BL.

SPOBI alert

WTF are you talkin about??

B/L is 6-10
on a D44

and perhaps taking out .002 is not a bad idea

so you want him to get a good pattern WITHOUT THE BACKLASH IN SPEC then go back and change the B/L

I think you have no idea what your talkin about :hang:
 
runable ..
not great news but it could have been worse..

IMO you will be Ok

Dana 30 carriers are prone to BL opening up a bit
and heres a quote from one of our current gear gurus..:)

Beezil said:
I've seen even dana 44's open up a bit.

I like to stay on the tighter side
 
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Yeah, I try to set all my Dana gears to .005.
"In the teens" is laughable.
They will open up slightly and you'll be golden.
Lookin' good, however, I still like your second pattern better, as well.

BTW, Beezil was current a year ago, but his tech is still some of the best.
 
Sorry but I think all three patterns are too deep.
You guys are misleading him. when the pattern is cutoff down in the root then you need to remove shims. Pull the pinion back out of the pattern. from the last pic I would pull it out at least .010" from the pic. You must be up around .050" of shim under the pinion?

You need to torque wrenches when doing gears. a 1/4" drive 0-50inlb bar type and a 1/2" drive10-250ftlb click type is best.

backlash in the teens? Nope that would be pinion bearing preload. In fact Pinion bearing preload has only a small amount of impact on the initial setup pattern. You do not need to torque the pinion nut down to 200lbft. in fact you don't even need the pinion preload shims when doing your initial setup. Preloading the bearings is meant to limit the amount of defflection in the gears when under heavy loads. To much preload will overheat the bearings while to little will allow the gears to deflect and move under load.

I'm not even going to address the "backlash opening up" bit. It needs to be within spec and the bearings need to be pressed on very tightly. 10tons will seat the shims and properly preloading the carrier bearings will keep the BL tight.
But I digress, I don't know anything because I don't preload the axles before checking the pattern!
 
Rawbrown said:
Sorry but I think all three patterns are too deep.
You guys are misleading him. when the pattern is cutoff down in the root then you need to remove shims. Pull the pinion back out of the pattern. from the last pic I would pull it out at least .010" from the pic. You must be up around .050" of shim under the pinion?

You need to torque wrenches when doing gears. a 1/4" drive 0-50inlb bar type and a 1/2" drive10-250ftlb click type is best.

backlash in the teens? Nope that would be pinion bearing preload. In fact Pinion bearing preload has only a small amount of impact on the initial setup pattern. You do not need to torque the pinion nut down to 200lbft. in fact you don't even need the pinion preload shims when doing your initial setup. Preloading the bearings is meant to limit the amount of defflection in the gears when under heavy loads. To much preload will overheat the bearings while to little will allow the gears to deflect and move under load.

I'm not even going to address the "backlash opening up" bit. It needs to be within spec and the bearings need to be pressed on very tightly. 10tons will seat the shims and properly preloading the carrier bearings will keep the BL tight.
But I digress, I don't know anything because I don't preload the axles before checking the pattern!
And that my friends, is THE final word.
 
Yep I agree with Rawbrown that the pinion is cutting in to deep. You need to change the shims each side of the centre ( decrease them on the pinion side of the crown and increase it the same a mount on the other ) to move it away from the pinion to stop it bottoming out in the crown wheel.
 
I think you got it mixed up Marcus... Maybe your upside down. :wave:
it sounds like you say the pinion is to deep but then you recomend adjusting the backlash?
at any rate, rule of thumb, cresent shape down in the cut or "root" of the ring gear teeth = pinion to deep. remove shim from behind inner pinion bearing.
cresent or half moon shape cut off at the tip or "crown" of the ring gear tooth = pinion to shallow.
Backlash settings incorrect are evident by the pattern position relative to the ID and OD of the ring gear (toe to heel of tooth). But a mounted dial indicator being the correct tool should allways be used to determine if correct BL has been acheived then verify that by inspecting the pattern.
Gojeep said:
Yep I agree with Rawbrown that the pinion is cutting in to deep. You need to change the shims each side of the centre ( decrease them on the pinion side of the crown and increase it the same a mount on the other ) to move it away from the pinion to stop it bottoming out in the crown wheel.
 
Now it coming back. See what happens when you only done a couple of diffs years ago! Thats why your doing my new D44. :)
 
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