Two questions

I just installed my hack and tap on my XJ and I noticed that I got vibes as expected, and I knew I needed shims. So I drove to the local 4x4 place, and they said for 5"-5.5" you will need 6*-8* so I got the 6* and still have some small vibes, not nearly as severe. Now ive searched around and it seems the safe bet would be to take these shims back and get some 4* and that should cure my bibe issue. Now I did use a front DS from a junkyard XJ and there was no front damage to that XJ so I pulled its DS. I guess if the shims dont solve it should I look to the DS next or the actual hack and tap.

Last is I used the YJ lines to give me some more length and I installed them on the rear and when I moved to the front I take the part off the caliper and then move to the body end of the line and look to see that it has been stripped round, so I move to the passenger side front line, its stripped round. So I bolt the line up and take off the little rubber thing to bleed it, and the little zerk looking thing is stripped round. So it looks like the previous owner tried to do their own brakes and stripped them. So I gave one shot with some vice grips and just was making it worse. If I take this to a brake place can they undo and replace the little fittings and all that without having to redo any major things or is there still some hope for me to do it. I cant drive it anywhere because I cant bleed the front.

For problem one. Are you sure the vib is in the rear? If so, try rotating the DS 180. Frequently that will solve it. I don't think the 6 degree shim is the problem. If you haven't checked it, there is a possibility the vibration is coming from the front. Drop the front DS entirely and drive it for awhile and see what you get.

For problem two. You are probably screwed. A brake shop won't mess with it as it is cheaper to replace the caliper and lines then try to get those buggers out. Sorry to hear the previous owner shafted you.

See before the shim I KNEW the vib was from the rear but now it felt almost from the front. My front pinion looks like a very obtuse triangle "^" But much less arched. Looks like I will be putting those adj. UCAs in tomorrow. I guess with that, is it possible to get a shim to large to where it will cause vibes?

As far as the brakes, if they are going to do hard lines and a caliper what would be a guess as far as price?? I know it depends on shop but am I looking at $100-$200.

xjrrrdx said:

I guess with that, is it possible to get a shim to large to where it will cause vibes?

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I don't know that they make a shim that large. With the lift you have, 6 should be fine.

xjrrrdx said:

am I looking at $100-$200.

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Probably that much in parts. I do my own work and have no clue what a shop would charge.

Well I adjusted my arms up front (the uppers were way off). However, I still get vibes but its only when I accelerate, when I let off the gas and coast they go away.

try heating up hte blead screws then hit with a penatrating fluid this should shock them loose then back out with vice grips thats what they are going to do at brake shop any way


good luck

On the brake subject I took it to a brakes place to go look at everything I needed to get done, and according to them I need new rear brakes because my wheel cylinders are bad and in order to bleed my brakes I NEED new wheel cylinders.

THats a rear driveline vib.
couple of things, if the u-joints are past 10º then your likely to have some vibs no matter how much perfect you are with shimming. Its just the nature of the beast. and for a rear driveshaft you really don't want to be operating the u-joints beyond 15º according to Tom Woods. but I wouldn't push 10º.
Time for an SYE me thinks...

xjrrrdx said:

Well I adjusted my arms up front (the uppers were way off). However, I still get vibes but its only when I accelerate, when I let off the gas and coast they go away.

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Rawbrown said:

THats a rear driveline vib.
couple of things, if the u-joints are past 10º then your likely to have some vibs no matter how much perfect you are with shimming. Its just the nature of the beast. and for a rear driveshaft you really don't want to be operating the u-joints beyond 15º according to Tom Woods. but I wouldn't push 10º.
Time for an SYE me thinks...

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He has a H&T as well as a front DS out of an xj (most are double cardon)



Rear DS: operating angle of the rear DS u-joint should be 0* (pinion pointing at t-case) measure and order shims to make it so.

Brakes: carefull with heat on them but soak them with pb blaster and clamp down hard with vise grips they will come (keep an eye on the upper brake line fittings and make sure the fitting is turning and not the line.) you can cut the flair off the line and put a new flare fitting on and re-flair it (make sure you use a double flair tool) same with the bleeders clamp down hard with vise grips get them off and get new ones.

Missed that part.
actually the pinion needs to point 1-2º below parrallel of the driveshaft

bj-666 said:

He has a H&T as well as a front DS out of an xj (most are double cardon)



Rear DS: operating angle of the rear DS u-joint should be 0* (pinion pointing at t-case) measure and order shims to make it so.

Brakes: carefull with heat on them but soak them with pb blaster and clamp down hard with vise grips they will come (keep an eye on the upper brake line fittings and make sure the fitting is turning and not the line.) you can cut the flair off the line and put a new flare fitting on and re-flair it (make sure you use a double flair tool) same with the bleeders clamp down hard with vise grips get them off and get new ones.

Click to expand...