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D44 Front Upper Link Axle Bridge Re-Enforcement

MontanaXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Montana
Worked on my front D44 swap on Friday. I didn't really care for how the Rubicon Express bridge used the bolt-on piece for the diff cover. I know lots of folks run it, but I wanted something different. I decided to give this method a shot.

740330_238_full.jpg


Do the experts think this will suffice? I will be running short arms with this setup. My main concern is the upper mount being strong enough to withstand the torque put on that upper mount.

Thanks!
Greg
 
What does the front look like?
If you haven't already done it I'd add a similar gusset to the front.
Here's mine for my 3 link...
picture.JPG

picture.JPG
 
I haven't done anything to the front. I was thinking that the rear gusset would be enough. I trust your opinion, so I should add to the front as well.

Greg
 
Nice looking bracket. Since you're running the four link, what you have there is pretty good and stronger than the stock pass side upper mount, but it wouldn't hurt to do what Jes suggested, stronger is always better over the long haul.

Nice bends. :thumbup:
 
Goatman said:
Nice looking bracket. Since you're running the four link, what you have there is pretty good and stronger than the stock pass side upper mount, but it wouldn't hurt to do what Jes suggested, stronger is always better over the long haul.

Nice bends. :thumbup:
Thanks Goatman, however I can't take credit for any bends, but did clean up the RE piece some. Welded in the relief cuts they make for the bending and ground them clean. Also filled in the 3 holes across the front and ground them smooth.

Greg
 
greg
IMO the only reason I would think that RE usese the mounting piece to the diff bolt holes is that MOST newbie welders dont know how to weld to cast iron correctly
like me

nice welds !!
 
As long as you used good rod and pre/post heated it, I'm sure it will be fine.

I didn't use a bridge at all on mine but made a mount out of 1/4 plate and welded it directly to the pumpkin. I have since bent the upper control arm on that side and the mount was fine.
 
VegasAnthony said:
greg
IMO the only reason I would think that RE usese the mounting piece to the diff bolt holes is that MOST newbie welders dont know how to weld to cast iron correctly
like me

nice welds !!
Thanks for all the positive comments. However, I can't take credit for the welding. A buddy of mine owns a 4x4 shop here in town, and he's the one laying the beads for me. This is his first attempt at welding to a center section, and it is what I learned on these boards that helped with the technique of pre-heating the housing. This is actually the first Jeep he has done any custom fab on, he and all his buddies are full size Chevy guys. It helps that he is a perfectionist when it comes to this type of work, even if he isn't 100% satisfied with some of the welds.

Greg
 
greg, I know you didn't weld your bridge on, and don't mean to hijack the thread, but as far as welding to the pumpkin, what is so difficult about it? Use nickle rod, heat it up until it gets dull orange, weld, keep it orange and slowly let it cool, right? Or am I missing something? I'm about to make my bridge for my waggy front and am digging through all the old threads, so I'm sorry for bring it up.
 
53guy said:
greg, I know you didn't weld your bridge on, and don't mean to hijack the thread, but as far as welding to the pumpkin, what is so difficult about it? Use nickle rod, heat it up until it gets dull orange, weld, keep it orange and slowly let it cool, right? Or am I missing something? I'm about to make my bridge for my waggy front and am digging through all the old threads, so I'm sorry for bring it up.
For the support shown in the first pic, we did pre-heat before welding. Didn't use any special rod, just standard MIG welding.

740330_243_full.jpg


For the support in the front we just welded it up.

Greg M.
 
Wow, that's gonna be a lot to weld. Greg, you said you used just a mig and preheated the back, but not the front? Did you notice any distortion of the housing or cracking at all? Obviously not because you're driving it, but I guess it's a valid question. Never seen anyone weld with mig to cast, so that's why I ask. It's definately sparked my interest in the Mig to cast as I can't stand welding with stick.
 
53guy said:
Wow, that's gonna be a lot to weld. Greg, you said you used just a mig and preheated the back, but not the front? Did you notice any distortion of the housing or cracking at all? Obviously not because you're driving it, but I guess it's a valid question. Never seen anyone weld with mig to cast, so that's why I ask. It's definately sparked my interest in the Mig to cast as I can't stand welding with stick.
No problems as far as I can tell. I abused it pretty hard at the Fall Fling(Area BFE, Pritchett) with no ill affects.

Greg M.
 
I need to get some pictures up of mine, I did the same thing to the back of my truss. But the front piece that bolts on , I cut it at the bend. Placed it in between the diff and the truss and welded it up. Looks very smooth. Also you can mig weld to cast. Turn the heat up! However welding with nickel rod and preheating is a much preferred method.
 
Awesome. Sounds like I'll just be Mig'ing the truss on like Greg did. Would 3/16" mild steel do the job if gusseted front and back of the bridge, or is that too thin do you think?
 
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