• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

clutch questions

ravenxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Butler PA
ok, these will be newbe questions, but i need to know so i can order parts to get my jeep back running.
my clutch pedel drops to the floor, will not let me shift into or out of gear while engine is running. as far as i got from searching this is bad slave cylinder. all master/slave cylinders need to be ordered. so i need to know what all i need to order to replace things in there. I have a 1998 4.0l 5 speed trans.
should i go with new master and slave, and should i get a new throwout bering?
yes i am new to all this, so any help in this matter would be greatly appreicated.

is this year an enternal slave or external?? following the hose down to the bell housing there is a black tube of about 6" in leangth sticking out. is this the slave, or just the out side of it??
\

sorry for the newbee stuff, but like i said i want to make sure i get all i need to do the job before it is sent to a warm place to get done.

thanks for the help
mathew
 
First determine which model 5-speed you have: Either the medium-duty Aisin AX-15 (preferred), or the light-duty, much maligned Peugot BA 10/5; could also be the light-duty AX-5, which was used behind the I6 4.0 litre until 1989:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/trans/

Your hydraulic system has an internal slave cylinder/throwout bearing as a combined unit (Jeep went to external slave in 1995). Must drop the transmission to R&R it, and it's a good idea to replace master and slave together. You should see the hydraulic line from the clutch master with the 6" hose, which is the bleeder nipple.
You could try replacing the master, then bleed the system, and hope the slave/throwout is good and holds. Fluid leak at the bellhousing indicates a failed slave sylinder. A search here will turn up plenty of useful information on dropping the transmission. Hope this helps.
 
1. you have an ax15
2. you have an external slave
3. IIRC the slave and the hardline going up to the master is all one piece.
4. It's self bleeding so don't be tempted to try and bleed it from what kind of looks like a bleeding valve (you play with that, you might as well throw the setup out and get a new line and slave)
 
otto said:
First determine which model 5-speed you have: Either the medium-duty Aisin AX-15 (preferred), or the light-duty, much maligned Peugot BA 10/5; could also be the light-duty AX-5, which was used behind the I6 4.0 litre until 1989:

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/trans/

Your hydraulic system has an internal slave cylinder/throwout bearing as a combined unit (Jeep went to external slave in 1995). Must drop the transmission to R&R it, and it's a good idea to replace master and slave together. You should see the hydraulic line from the clutch master with the 6" hose, which is the bleeder nipple.
You could try replacing the master, then bleed the system, and hope the slave/throwout is good and holds. Fluid leak at the bellhousing indicates a failed slave sylinder. A search here will turn up plenty of useful information on dropping the transmission. Hope this helps.
:confused: read his post again, he's got a 98.
 
thanks to both of you, dealer wants 230 for kit that has master, and slave and tube. priced master for 75, and slave for 55. from auto parts store. 130 for both there and 230 from jeep. your info helps so now i am in the right direction.

Thanks once more.

Mathew
 
ravenxj said:
thanks to both of you, dealer wants 230 for kit that has master, and slave and tube. priced master for 75, and slave for 55. from auto parts store. 130 for both there and 230 from jeep. your info helps so now i am in the right direction.

Thanks once more.

Mathew
If you're thinking about buying components separately check into what you can use and not. IIRC the setup is one piece so that you can't replace items one component at a time. Also I wonder about reliability of the aftermarket components.
 
You'll probably have to go with the one-piece unit. You could probably try and fit seperate master/slave units, but the clutch feel and operation may not be what you'd want. Besides, the one-piece unit is sealed so no leaks or bleeding. Check http://allchryslerparts.com/ they discount OEM parts. Personally, I think the one-piece unit is a great design and (usually) has a long service life.
 
Back
Top