Joints For My Shafts

So what U joints would you run in a HP Dana 44 with Superior Evo series cromo shafts in a Dana 44? I do use 4x4 on the street when its really really wet and in snowy weather. I searched and came to the conclusion that CTMs dont work out so well with street/hwy driving. Are the Longfield joints any better? Any other options for a streetable heavy duty U joint?

So the first trip I have out on my newly installed HP Dana 44 ended abruptly with a broken front stub shaft. Specs: 91 XJ lifted around 4.5", a built 4.6L stroker, AX-15, NP 231 w/ HD SYE, rear Ford 8.8 trussed, traction bar, and 4.10s and an ARB. The front axle housing is out of a 78 F-250, cut down to use Waggy inners, F-150 5 lug outers, and Warn Premium locking hubs. Its also has 4.10s and an ARB. I run 33x12.50s BFG M/Ts.
Thanks,

AARON

I've heard good things about these:
http://www.ok4wd.com/product.asp?id=654

"JE Reel Drivelines is proud to introduce their newest product the Waterproof U-Joint. This latest developement in U-Joint technology comes complete with a forged body and is cryogenically treated for stronger trunnion. They also offer water proof seals and come with a special water proof grease.

Forged body from high strength alloy steel; Cryogenic treatment increases strength and durability; Stronger trunnion, large diameter radius reducing fracture points; Waterproof seals - water and mud stay out while the grease stays in; Special waterproof grease - high temperature and high pressure; 40% stronger and more durable than OE u-joints."

The 297x/760x variety is the last one on the page there.

Wow, you broke a stock front D44 stub shaft with 33's? Must have a lead foot...

I'm running the stock spicer lifetime joints and shafts that came in my waggy 44, with the caps tack-welded in, on 36" Iroks, and haven't broken a shaft yet. I imagine I should start carrying spares though...

Anyway, other than that I don't have much input. Why don't you send an e-mail to Bobby and see what he says about his D44 joints on the street?

The strong joints use bushings instead of needle beaings, so don't know what else you'd do. I don't think there is any evidence that they (CTM's or others) won't last on a street driven rig, most comments are opinions and heresay. I wouldn't worry about running them. There is no stress on them in 2wd, and the trunion only turns in the cup when the vehicle turns, and then they only rotate back and forth very slightly. There is little to wear when there is no stress on the joint. Most of the time the hubs are unlocked anyway.

However, if you really are concerend about real longevity, get a cyro treated Spicer 760x and install it in the chromo shafts with snap rings, which is still a pretty strong combination. Or, try the JE Reel u-joint.

the reason why some of the aftermarket u-joints don't like being used in 4wd all the time is because they do away with the needle bearings. they use bushings instead. with that being said stock u-joints last up to 100k with normal stock use so even if you drop that down to 20k on your aftermarket joints that's still not bad seeing as ctm (and i beleive others) offer rebuild kits for their joints.

now come the choices ctm is prob the most heard of and their quality and strength is very good. newer joints have come out such as ox and longfield (and i'm sure other). ox claims to have an incredible break stength (listed on their web site) but i personally have not seen a lot in use so the jury is still out. and if longfield's joints are anythign like his birfs he makes for the toy guys they should be and awsome joint. i do beleive longfields are the cheepiest and i will prob be going with these when i get my cromos.

Goatman said:

The strong joints use bushings instead of needle beaings, so don't know what else you'd do. I don't think there is any evidence that they (CTM's or others) won't last on a street driven rig, most comments are opinions and heresay. I wouldn't worry about running them. There is no stress on them in 2wd, and the trunion only turns in the cup when the vehicle turns, and then they only rotate back and forth very slightly. There is little to wear when there is no stress on the joint. Most of the time the hubs are unlocked anyway.

However, if you really are concerend about real longevity, get a cyro treated Spicer 760x and install it in the chromo shafts with snap rings, which is still a pretty strong combination. Or, try the JE Reel u-joint.

Click to expand...

dam quick typers

bj-666 said:

dam quick typers

Click to expand...

.

And he is old too!

NotMatt said:

Wow, you broke a stock front D44 stub shaft with 33's? Must have a lead foot...

Click to expand...

I broke it on an obsticle called "Full Throttle" so go figure The passenger side lifted off the rock slightly and when it came down it stoped spinning. No pop, click, or bang. I wasnt really on it that hard. I have beat my junk harder in the past and it hasnt broken. The stub shaft looked well beyond used when I put it in. It was a spare emergency shaft that I threw in to make the trip as I havnt gotten around to getting a good set of shafts yet. The inner shafts are borrowed from one guy, and the driver side stub is a Dutchman cromo from another guy

Thanks for the replies. I think I might try out the longfields since cost is a consideration.

AARON

You can run CTM's or Yukon Superjoints or OX's in your front D44. So you turn the hubs when you have inclimate weather, no big. That just means that you need to pay a little more attention to them. Keep them greased well and try to avoid turning the hubs.
the other option is the run the spicer 5-760x joints. But use full circle clips with those alloy shafts. Thats what will save you is the full circle clips.