Dumb question when I do Flexplate (Flywheel)

[GSequoia]

Okay, this is an easy one..So I'm going to replace my flex plate, which of course means that I have to split the engine and transmission....Now, while I'm doing this I plan to pull the pan and do the rear main and stuff...

How do I keep the engine up in that circumstance (No oil pan to help hold it up)? Is the balance okay to sit there without a jack under it? (Last car I split the engine and trans the engine wanted to fall out without the trans)

Thanks,
Sequoia

[Rev Den]

Yes, never supported mine when I did the clutch slave.

Rev

[eric91xj]

Hey,

You don't need anything to support the motor because it has its own two mounts holding it up, the oil pan does nothing for support, all it does is well, hold the oil. when ya do it ya might wanna put a jack under your trans though and make sure ya put a piece of wood between the jack and trans as not to hurt anything. Good luck man.

Eric

[offroadman83]

Hope you have some good motor mounts as they will be tweaked some. I replaced mine with M.O.R.E mounts afterwards anyways and it made the job much more easier. Watch the linkages in case, as well as any other lines. That transmission pan is a $200+ piece at dealer so be careful.---Kyle

[sidriptide]

ive never done an XJ but i have put a pipe or wood beam of some kind across the fenders with a chain bolted to a minifold or bell housing bolt just to keep it from tipping too far and breaking something... my .37 cents
mike

[Backdraft]

Well, I was going to tell you not to worry about it and just let it hang. But it looks like everyone beat me to the punch...:D

Mike

[Eagle]

I'm going against the group on this one. The motor mounts are forward of the center of mass of the engine, so if you let it hang to will be putting serious stress on the motor mounts, stress for which they were not designed.

In your sitation, I would first back the tranny away from the engine and remove the flex plate. Then I would get a length of 1 x 3 or 1 x 4, cope a notch in one end, and set that on the floor to hold up the back end of the crankshaft. The drop the pan and do the bearings and rear mail seal.

The suggestion of a "beam" across the fenders and surrporting from on top would work, too.

[Rev Den]

IIRC when I pulled my tranny last to do the slave, I seem to remember having to lift the front of the engine to tilt the back down to realign the tranny. This would indicate the the engine will tilt froward with out the trans, not back.

but, I could be wrong.

Just my 2

Rev

[Eagle]

I just did a flex plate replacement on a 4.0L. I had a scissor jack under the aft end of the oil pan. The engine did not tilt forward.

[GSequoia]

Eagle...quiz time...

How many flex plates have you chagned? Hell, when I hear the words Flex Plate I think of you!

[91xjtim]

Do you have to drop the oil pan to do the rear main? I know its a two piece, but couldnt you just leave the oil pan in place, pull the flexplate, put your jack under the oil pan and just put in the new seal from the back? Ive done the rear main on my jeep(I dropped the pan) and did my mustang, its a one piece did it when I put in the new clutch and was having flywheel machined. Anyway, just a thought

[Eagle]

Originally posted by 91xjtim
Do you have to drop the oil pan to do the rear main? I know its a two piece, but couldnt you just leave the oil pan in place, pull the flexplate, put your jack under the oil pan and just put in the new seal from the back? Ive done the rear main on my jeep(I dropped the pan) and did my mustang, its a one piece did it when I put in the new clutch and was having flywheel machined. Anyway, just a thought

Nope. Different type of seal. You have to open the rear main bearing cap to access the seal, and the pan has to come down to drop the bearing cap.

IMHO I'd much prefer to drop the pan than pull the tranny and remove the flywheel/flex plate any day.