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cutting brakes

B

bj-666

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Rhode Island
Well the title says it all, I'm looking to install some cutting brakes. I saw a nice setup in a rig where it was a lever with two small masters atached above and below the pivit point of the lever, causing forward motion of the lever to compress the lower cylinder, and pullin back on the lever compressed the upper cylinder. I like this idea a lot but didn't get to check out how the rest of the system was set up. What other mods are neaded to do this it's on a 8.8. Can you use the standard brakes or do you need to have a second caliper for the cutting brake.
 
How about a selectable locker on the rear.
 
to be able to turn sharper. what do alloys and 33's have to do with anything. after following a few people with cutting brakes i liked the way they helped them steer. for now i don't have a atlas so i can't be using it for front digs but i can unlock the rear and lock the inside tire and get some benifit out of the cutting brakes. the main question is in plumbing of the cylinders is there special valves that need to be used or what?
 
yup it's selectable. and another reason is i'm feeling a little lost. i'm going to be getting rid of a clutch pedal and a stick shift now what is my foot and right hand gonna do???
 
why do you want cutting brakes?
Click to expand...

2 main reasons for doing things are

1)cuz it's cool

2)cuz i can

at least does are my reasons for doing anything.

i'll have to follow this forum or do some research on cutting brakes. that could be one of those "cool" things. LOL
 
in the NEast we run lots of everythign so in tight trails with tons of trees and other crap it would be nice to be able to get a little advantage in turning.
 
bj-666 said:
after following a few people with cutting brakes i liked the way they helped them steer.
Click to expand...

did those guys corrupt you on the toy-drive? and don't you need to replace your engine first anyways?
:gag:
 
yup i got another jeep for 500 with a good motor/tranny going in this weekend !
 
you will be making the front end do a lot more work with cutting brakes. there is a reason it is often called "front burns". your sig says D44, so even if you have alloy shafts, I don't think it would hold up long to 35s and front burns. (though I see you're in RI, so I'm guessing that you mostly wheel in slippery stuff which won't be as hard on parts)
 
yup i understand the stresses put on the stuff. anyone have any info on good/bad units and plumbing??
 
t_283.jpg


I'm sure the guys at Poly Performance would be happy to talk you through it: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=88
 
that's what i'm lookin for thanks
no how are these plumbed into the system.

ps check your e-mail
 
They are plumbed inline with the brake system..I just installed them on the buggy. A front burn is hard on stuff. I run a 60 front and have snapped a couple of non-alloy 35spline outters doing a front burn. They are quite cool and helpful , but can bite ya in the ass.
 
sorry woody i'm having a hard time picturing this. are you saying that the rear brakes would have to be split earlier (near the cutting brake) then the inputs would lead into the two different cylinders R/L and then out of the cylinders it would lead to the rear brakes? this makes some sense but it would seem to me that as you apply force to the rear brakes via normal braking you would be also pusing on the cutting brake cylinders.
clue me in i know i'm missing something.
 
The cutting brake has 1 "rear" input and a "left" and a "right" output.When the cutting brakes are not in use the piston sets behind the "input" port(of each individual cutting brake cylinder allowing fluid to both "output" ports.When you apply the "cutting" brake the cylinder(piston) goes past the "input" port only allowing fluid to that side.
 
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