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90-XJ_I6_Automatic No Start-No SparK

ItZaJeePThiNG

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pennsylvania
Honestly I'm very new to the site so 1st off Hi.
I have been searching the last two nights when I get off work and I'm not finding much I havent tried.

Basically the situation: Friday the 1st snow hit in pittsburgh and I had lots of fun in FullTime 4x4. just basically parking lot stuff and hills no dumb stuff.
I parked the JeeP for the night outside and the next morning I went to start( I have the usual XJ that takes about 5-7 secs of cranking to fire-Hope thats normal???)
No-Start?- I checked my batt-okay, no Fog light or other accessories on, in Park(tried neutral and other gears) put the XantraX pak on and jumped it-NO start!!! The engine cranks all day! pulled the intake-nogo!! tried the schrader valve and no drip-but the ignition was not in ACC(should it have been for fuel pressure?) THE fuel pump engages when key is turned, so I tried starting fluid twice--nope

So i checked the Brand new Wires by taking one off and putting next to ground=no SPARK! tried the coil<->dissy yup no spark!! So I got brave and had my Wife crank engine whil I held the coil= yeah I'm still here-NO SPARK!
starter cranks might not have fuel psi (not sure yet havent pulled plugs to check.) pulled cap-rotor turns when cranking-timimg chain-good.
I bought a new coil, new ICM and stil......NO SparK!!! SO I took back the overly priced; Shiny ICM and kept the coil for a suv.
All fuses are good, Brand new Die Harder Battery, cleaned terminals, get oil pressure and all lights work. I did however put jeep in reverse on the PRNDL and put ignition in ACC; no backup lights---BUT wont start in Neutral.......

**I now have a remote starter bridged to the solenoid for ease of trouble shooting since i'm alone outside.** I also double check by starting in truck anytime I change something...

Now I'm not sure how and where to check these things i've read on here tonight:
1. CPS- where- how do i check- and any recommendations?

2. TPS-where-how to check- any recommendations?

3. NSS- I hear it can be cleaned? What and Where the heck is it and how do i get it off- I heard it's $300- should we be cleaning something that cost that much? is it internal/external?
4. Where are the Fusible Links in this 90 XJ?????

I cant seem to figure out how there is no spark coming from the coil??? what else could I check? Please GuRUs HELP!
I myself am a 1st Gen Mx6 owner and experienced Tuner- My 1st Jeep and I thought I was getting a reliable Machine for the winter-1st day it snows and she's bit*hing out on me Already :(

I am off work Thursday and Friday. I have spent almost a total of a complete 17 hours in the 20 degree weather outside since last Friday- no joke!

I have brand new batt, wires, plugz, coil, K&N, suspension, exhaust, and lube since i bought the JeeP in October....How could this be happening to me??? ohh yeah

ItZaJeePTHiNG
 
Sounds like the classic cranshaft position sensor failure. If it goes bad you will have no spark. It is mounted on the bellhousing at the 10 o'clock position as you sit in the driver's seat. Go and replace it for age if nothing else.

Since you have a 90 go to the dealer and ask for a high alt CPS. There are two available, the high alt mounts the sensor off center on the bracket which gives you more advance. Since you have a knock sensor you will never have ping but you will get more power.

I'd say that CPS is your problem. If that does not fix it then hooking it up to a test set to see what is not working. If you are a member of AAA then have it towed ot the dealer and pay the 1.0 hour to figure out the problem. You will be ahead money wise vs throwing on new parts.
 
i'd start with the CPS before anything else right now.

it's located on the transmission, driver's side. top of the flange where it bolt's to the engine. PITA to get to unless your arm's are about the size of a pencil. it can be done with a little patience but it take's a little while to get into it. make sure it's connected up top and that there's no short's in it or burnt spot's.

from another post on here someone checked the OHM's at 230 with a digital multi meter,, dunno what it should actually be referenced to ?

this might help some also http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197260
 
Thanks 4 the quick reply.
**Can I buy the CPS @ say NAPA or the Zone? If a dealer item only what kinda $ we talking here? In stock type of part?

By any chance would anyone know what type of tolls I need to take back to my Jeep to remove the CPS? I literally have a bag of metric and misc standard(pita) tools there. I have my internet here @ my garage. and the commute is a bother when you have work in the 7am-10pm time frame (usually work10-10; I'm on my wifes school schedule since she has the only working car.)

-BTW Are the Specs in my Haynes Manual? I have a new MultiMeter i want to test out!


**EDIT** YOU the man jeannies Driver posted my answers b4 i posted the ?-Sweet-Karma 4 you and you Martin
ItZaJeePThiNG
 
Last edited:
tool's i forget, but find some different size extention's and maybe some swivel's. i actually think i did mine with just a small socket/ratchet for one and a wrench on the other. it's not fun though. i got mine at autozone here for around $50

no clue if the FSM show's how to test it with the DMM but it may....
 
As you XJ owner you will need a set of 3/8 sockets, and a ratchet to change this sensor. I managed to slide my arm between the firewall and the bellhousing. I think it was a 8 or 10 mm socket but it was 5 years ago when I did that job.

Be careful to NOT drop the bolts into the bellhousing. You will have to pull the flywheel cover to get out the bolt if you do.
 
I just bought the CPS sensor PART # CSS980 FROM NAPA.
--PRICES WAS JUST UNDER $40. THE ZONE WANTED $60 AND WOULD ORDER IT IN FOR TOMORROW.
-THE GUY I KNOW @ NAPA DROVE ALMOST 50MILES ROUND TRIP TO PICK IT UP FROM A SISTER STORE IN PENN HILLS. IT'S POURING DOWN SLEET RIGHT NOW AND I DONT FEEL LIKE MORE FROST-BITE...
*sorry about the caps*

- I have read up on here main cause for failure of the sensor is burnout on the exhaust= fixed by high temp electrical wiring sleeves (Yes from the Mazda :))

wish me luck and if all goes well this Forum has a new Member/Supporter for good ;)
 
DON'T REPLACE IT YET!!!!

From experience: disconnect it at the connector near the firewall on top of the manifold. Replug a few times. See if that does it.

If not, while she cranks, take a wire and jumper from neg on the battery to the coil/ign module frame.

I've seen/done both. The ground wire should make it start right away (maybe rub it in to get through any corrosion while doing it) if it's a ground problem.

On the CPS, if reconnecting it works (the wire isn't melted elsewhere) then take some ox-gard and put a little on each pin and socket in the connector, being careful not to get it all over the place or between pins. Reconnect and pull the 2 connectors together with a wire tie tightly.

Both are oxidation problems. The oxgard will help the cps connector and keeping it tight will keep water/stuff out. Some explain it as "resetting" the cps, but it isn't something that "resets" any more than a spark plug does ;)

By disconnecting and reconnecting, you wipe a new contact area.

If this doesn't work, then do the diags for the cps and/or check other grounds too, like at the ECU. It seems older cars, and especially older XJs, have ground problems with age. Good chance it's the connector given the temperature extreme it went through just before quitting. Just enough contraction from the cold to break a flakey connection in there.

Skip
 
Update-
I found the CPS and removed the connector. part of it was lying on the back half of the manifold:( melted through the insulation and got the white wire!

I have the new cps from NAPA and some high temp wire sleeves; I tried for an hour to get to the bolts and no luck.

I can however reach them (with extremly little moveablility) The 12mm was NOT the correct size socket. 1/4" seemed to fit by hand but I couldnt get it off with the tools I had.
I'm headed back to the XJ now with some brake cleaner to clean up some of the grease and a can of PB Blaster.

I'm taking all of my swivels and extensions + my better 1/4" ratchet with the 5 degree movement because i dont see how I have can ratchet anything under there on my back....I also bought a pair of jackstands and the Jan/Feb edition JP Magazine.

Thanks for all the help- - -I wonder why the Haynes didnt list the CPS as a "Crank But No Start" possible check?????
 
11mm socket(12-point works easier),knuckles, extensions, work
on aw4, if you're running a clutch there is no room without
first removing driver-side motor mount and loosening up t-case
crossmember. good luck.
 
ItZaJeePThiNG said:
Update-
I found the CPS and removed the connector. part of it was lying on the back half of the manifold:( melted through the insulation and got the white wire!
In case the wire is grounded on the manifold, how about moving it away
and trying to start? If it starts, would it be easier to splice a new wire
instead of replacing the sensor?
Cheaper too.
 
Re: 90-XJ_I6_LiVES_watz w/these Brakes?

The JeeP Lives.
Thanks for all who helped!
She cranks up faster now since the new CPS and Also since I kept the new Wells Ignition Coil.

I have this really weird Brake Problem however. I guess I didnt notice it until I brought the Xj Back to life ( i have been really been listening carefully lately to the Jeep.)
The Brakes when depressed sound like a whooshing- and if i hold down the pedal @ a red light it hisses; the pedal does not drop to the floor and it gets very tight after 3 pedal presses if the engine is off and holds tight.

I heard the XJ's Brakes suck but is this what everyone refers to?

I have no ABS and it does not stop like I wish it should_-_-_hey do I hear possible upgrades coming up soon? Yes I think so. maybe some slotted rotors and some Green Stuff Pads w/ those Rough Country Extended SS/Kevlar lines may help. . . any thoughts?
 
Re: 90-XJ_I6_LiVES_watz w/these Brakes?

ItZaJeePThiNG said:
The JeeP Lives.

The Brakes when depressed sound like a whooshing- and if i hold down the pedal @ a red light it hisses; the pedal does not drop to the floor and it gets very tight after 3 pedal presses if the engine is off and holds tight.

Sounds like a booster to me.
 
do you hear a buzzing sound when you hit the brakes say every other time?
 
brake?

No. No buzzing sounds. just a slight hiss every once in a while, usually when coasting in neutral. Like a vac leak> Are there any vac lines vital to this non-ABS system I may have disconnected causing these symptoms? The brakes still work it's just annoying. . .
 
Re: brake?

ItZaJeePThiNG said:
No. No buzzing sounds. just a slight hiss every once in a while, usually when coasting in neutral. Like a vac leak> Are there any vac lines vital to this non-ABS system I may have disconnected causing these symptoms? The brakes still work it's just annoying. . .

That's exactly what I had in a 95 Blazer. Eventually got worse, brakes got stiff.
Replaced the booster, back to normal.
 
How hard to replace the booster correctly? I've done several master cylinder before; never a booster, whats all involved? any special things to consider before attemting this? Does it really sound like a booster? Wouldnt that throw a BRAKE light on the dash?
 
Here is how to check for proper booster function;

1. with engine OFF, depress brake pedal repeatedly, until pedal becomes very hard.
2. while holding brake pedal down firmly, start engine
3. if booster is working properly, brake pedal should move down further as engine starts, and booster begins to recieve manifold vacuum.

If the booster fails this test, replacement is pretty straightforward:
1. Disconnect master cylinder from booster by removing the two nuts on flanges of the MC. Move the MC forward while leaving the hard brake lines attached.
2. Undo the vacuum hose attached to the booster
3. Working under the dash, undo the 4 nuts that hold the booster to the firewall
4. Remove the booster from the firewall, saving the spacer and gasket located between the booster and firewall.
5. Reassemble in reverse order.
 
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