• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Bolt breaking tips??

JeepXJ93

NAXJA Forum User
Location
CT
Hey all, trying to finish lifting my jeep but i couldnt break the leaf spring bolts loose. Everything else is done, and i have a 1/2 drive breaker bar w/ a 3 foot pipe on the end of that for more leverage, its turning but doesnt seem like i'm getting anywhere, is there anything i can do to make it back out easier? ive been hitting it w/ pb blaster for about a week now. I've done this on 2 other jeeps and neither of them were this tough, and this one is even rust free. Any ideas much appreciated.
 
I went the torch route too. If it's turning already but not backing out, it sounds like either the nut broke loose from the welds or the bolt is seized in the bushing. I hope I'm wrong.
 
Sawzall the bolt in between the leafs/bracket...

use crowbar/lever to move leaf as much away from bracket as possible...

leaving as much of bolt intact as possible...

heat the remainding section of bolt with blowtorch...

attach big vice.

remove.

repeat for other side.

open beer...

drink...

repeat.
 
Yea id say use a crow bar and try to pry the bolt out a little ways because it sounds like its stripped or somethin or the sort. Then once its pried out a little(if possible) then go back to using the wrench and metal pipe.
 
It's seized to the inner sleeve.
When that happens at work, I heat up the head of the bolt and hit it with PB and go to lunch.
For you, though, I recommend Gil's advice.
 
Yup... that's probably what's going on... you'll have you get some seriously hard sawzall blades and if you can try not to cut through that inner sleeve. It will crew through your 10 dollar a piece blades and laugh. Also be ready to have a tap. Whne I had to sawzall off my bolt I had already stripped the first threads off the bracket and had to re tap it to put in the new bolts (Front leaf spring bolts) If I remember correctly it's an M16 2.0 pitch. Does anyone remember if that's right?

Also be sure to replace your hardware with oem stuff or if non oem, Grade 8 or higher. I also lubed up the whole bolt with anti-seize before I put it back. The second time was SOOOOOO much easier.
 
JeepXJ93 said:
Hey all, trying to finish lifting my jeep but i couldnt break the leaf spring bolts loose. Everything else is done, and i have a 1/2 drive breaker bar w/ a 3 foot pipe on the end of that for more leverage, its turning but doesnt seem like i'm getting anywhere, is there anything i can do to make it back out easier? ive been hitting it w/ pb blaster for about a week now. I've done this on 2 other jeeps and neither of them were this tough, and this one is even rust free. Any ideas much appreciated.

The XJ uses captured nuts inside the frame rails. Sounds like the captured nut on the inside of the frame rail is spinning. I think only an angle grinder will work. Take the head off the rest is easy. You will need to cut open the floor to get a nut on the back side of the bolt. It has been done but it is an extra hassle.
 
hmm, if i sawzall the bolt in between the leaf and the bracket, isnt the remaining shank of the bolt still going to be seized inside the frame and leaf? Do i cut in between the inner side or the side closest to the head of the bolt? Thanks for the help, i'll try to get to it tomorrow after work.
 
Just a thought...Unless you are replacing the entire spring pack, you can leave the main leaf in place and just replace the rest.

If the bolt is just spinning and not backing out at all, I'd bet that the weld that holts the nut inside the frame rail is broken. I think the only way to get to that nut is from above, requiring cutting through the floor in the right spot - not fun.

You are correct - if you cut the bolt out you will still have the remaining part of the bolt to deal with. If the weld is broken on the nut, you will still have to cut into the floor to remove the old one and replace it with the new one.
 
JeepXJ93 said:
hmm, if i sawzall the bolt in between the leaf and the bracket, isnt the remaining shank of the bolt still going to be seized inside the frame and leaf? Do i cut in between the inner side or the side closest to the head of the bolt? Thanks for the help, i'll try to get to it tomorrow after work.


Kinda depends on wether you're reusing that main leaf...

If you're replacing the main leaf and using new bushings (I hope)...

You can actually cut the bushing end off the leaf with an angle grinder...

If you're reusing the main leaf...

Burn the bushing out...

Blowtorch......Good M'kay!

IIRC We cut my bolts on the inner side of the leaf...
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
Kinda depends on wether you're reusing that main leaf...

If you're replacing the main leaf and using new bushings (I hope)...

You can actually cut the bushing end off the leaf with an angle grinder...

If you're reusing the main leaf...

Burn the bushing out...

Blowtorch......Good M'kay!

IIRC We cut my bolts on the inner side of the leaf...


I meant just leaving the main leaf in place and building up the leaf pack while the main was still bolted to the jeep. That way he won't have to mess with trying to saw thru bolts or tourch them off.
 
Highmiles said:
I meant just leaving the main leaf in place and building up the leaf pack while the main was still bolted to the jeep. That way he won't have to mess with trying to saw thru bolts or tourch them off.

That works fine and would reccomend to anyone just adding a leaf or two...

problem is...

He's already loosened or broken the bolt...

or even spun the nut (oww!)

If you're gonna eat a turd sandwich...

Why nibble on it?

Might as well get it all off since he's halfway there and replace bushings and bolts...

btw...

Those bolts are about $5 each at the dealer

:D
 
JeepXJ93 said:
its turning but doesnt seem like i'm getting anywhere,
This is the sentence I think everyone missed.
You broke the weld-nut off the inside of the frame
You are f***ed.
Drop back 15 and punt.

OK, it's not that bad but it will suck.
Getting the bolt out is the easy part. Use whatever means you can because there's no reason to be careful now.
Getting a new one in gets interesting.
I would suggest cutting (with a grinding wheel) away a section of the frame area that currently encloses the nut.
This will allow you to gain access to the nut and remove it.
Now that this area is open, bolt the new leafs in place (use a locking style nut, the kind with distorted threads, not a nylon loc), using plenty of anti-sieze.
Tack weld (put a good solid weld on it) the nut in place.
Weld the frame back together, enclosing the nut again.

That's why it's best to just cut off the bolt at the beginning.
 
ya i had to do this with my 88 , the bolt is under the rear seat and 9 times out of ten ,when you pull the carpet up , there is already a hole there from all the rust
 
leaf13qp.jpg
 
what is the pic of? I'm assuming those are the peices you cut off the floor/frame?

I'm confused, why cut through the floor, isnt the frame a box all the way around, so i should just cut through the bottom? Or is the frame open on the top side that is welded to the floorboards? UGH more money i have to spend b/c i sure as hell dont have the tools to do a job like that. Thanks for all the reply's.
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
nope...

That's a disected bushing.
Ding ding ding, correct. It was my driver side front leaf eye disection because the bolt was seized to the sleeve.
 
Back
Top