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Build HP30 or HP44

Mudskipper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fitchburg , MA
Should I build my HP30 (shafts,gears,locker,steering) or build my hp44 (gears,locker,steering,brakes,mounting brackets)? The stock 44 has 30 spline shafts. Are they strong enough for 36"s? Could a HP30 be built strong enough for 36"s? Any help would be appreciated.
 
This has been covered a million times. I had a HPD30 and lasted ok until I put 35" Krawlers on it. The tires are sticky and heavy. I started breaking lots of shafts, put chrome moly's in it, broke the carrier (stock carrier and lockright). I wasn't gonna buy a detroit or ARB for the D30, cut my losses, parted it out and built a HP D44. It held up good to 35" Mt/R's, BFG's, etc... it was fine UNTIL I put the Krawlers on the D30.

John
 
Avanteone said:
This has been covered a million times. I had a HPD30 and lasted ok until I put 35" Krawlers on it. The tires are sticky and heavy. I started breaking lots of shafts, put chrome moly's in it, broke the carrier (stock carrier and lockright). I wasn't gonna buy a detroit or ARB for the D30, cut my losses, parted it out and built a HP D44. It held up good to 35" Mt/R's, BFG's, etc... it was fine UNTIL I put the Krawlers on the D30.

John

Concur... General rule of thumb I like to give people is that D30s get a max of 33" tires. If you break stuff usually you'll stop once you switch to chromo shafts in. If you're STILL breaking things or want to go over 33" tires (safely), go with the HP D44. Have a couple of friends with 37" Swampers who have HP 44s and chromo shafts...and they are not anywhere close to easy on their rigs. Zero problems after 5 years and literally thousands of wheeling miles on them. ;)
 
Everything is bigger in a D-44 over a D-30. Think about it. I run 38's on my LP D-44. Yes I go through shafts/ujoints about every three outtings, but I push it real hard too. My 44 on 35's was fine. Would not even consider 35's or up on a D-30 front, High pinion or not.
 
A HP30 is every bit as strong in the R&P department as a LPD44..


If you are going to do a front axle swap, the marginal strength increase by going to a D44 IMHO< isnt worth it.

Go ahead and Go full 60 up front.


the D44 and D30 your weak link is still the 297/5-760x sized u=joints. If you put on the Super 30 kit, then your weak link is the r&P and the ball joints/knuckles


If you take a D44 and beef it up, you could buy a somewhat stock Dana 60 and swap that in for about the same money, might as well go 60
 
zjmikey said:
Go ahead and Go full 60 up front.

...and add an extra 300 lbs up front (approx.), loose ground clearance, pay more for parts, and give yourelf a headache making it fit properly under the XJ.
 
the internet :D
 
ummmm, im going to say that a lp44 is stronger than a hp30, in every aspect, ring and pinion isnt as strong as a hp44, but it was free, so i dont care

my jeeps pretty much done anyway, im going buggy!
 
id say build the 44, the turdy aint worth it, but then again the only weelin you do is mall wheelin
 
The only reason you haven't seen me out there is what's the point of taking something out that you know is going to break. Why not build it the way you want so you know it can handle the crap you want to do.I built my Xterra to do crap xterra's aren't supposed to do.
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Ive said it before, and Ill say it again, the TRUTH lies in the middle. You have the best platform to begin with as far as D30s go (HP, and it has the SAME balljoints a D44). I think if you need more, its a waste to go to time/effort/expense of a D44, unless of course its a hybrid (D60 outers). The perfect axle, IMHO is a hybrid Ford 9/D60, killer outer strength, relatively light weight (easily rivaling that D44 you guys use), easy and strong to weld control arm mounts to, and LOTS of options these days as to gear ratios/spline counts/and pinion (hi or lo). It is also one of the only axles to get stronger as gear ratios go up (Sunray reccomends at least a 4.56 in its axles if this says anything). I think the expense would be MORE than a D44, but moderately so, when you add up everything youd have to do(shafts,joints, steering, locker, etc.), especially with Yukon Chromos being so cheap, and actually easier to get in the D60s sizes. The weak points on that 30 are gears when they are steep, and teh carrier if you run a stock one (D30s are notorious for explosion when used with a lockright or other lunchbox locker, as the center pin/carrier slop becomes greater,so do the chances for catastrophe, so keep an eye on it, I am, Ill be running an Aussie in mine!!)

PS I thought long and hard about this before I did it (even though it is considered the ultimate turd polsihing), and here was my front budget:
Warn 5 on 5.5 kit= 850 shipped(comes with EVERYTHING, I actually, after seeing it in perrson, think this is a relative bargain with what it comes with, and NO more unit bearing crap to deal with)
alloy inners=160 shipped
rotors and machining= 90
gears/master install/NEW spicer carrier=200
aussie=250 shipped
So, all in all, I have 1550 invested in mine, and all I have to add yet (havent assemble it yet, sits ready to be assembled beside the commanche) is ball joints, and I will if I can press them in with no adverse wear to the housing
 
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