Log Nut stuck 89 Cherokee

I have a rounded lug nut on the front rim of my 89 Cherokee, I tried to use a cold chisel and hammer to "peal" the lug nut off and just bugured it all up, it's now half mushroomed and stuck, I expect to have to replace the male part of the lug, can anyone let me know a good way to remove the lug and remaining lugbolt ? thanks in advance to all

Take it to a tire store, they have a tool.

Rev

something like this would work
http://www.newmantools.com/ez.htm
I imagine that's what the tire shop would use, only on an impact gun.

Got an old cheep socket thats just a tad bit smaller than whats left of the lugnut?
Just hammer it on there, works for locking lugs.
How about a grinder?

Almost nothing left of the lug nut after I chiseled on it for an hour, thinking about drilling it out

Nut splitter

drill out the stud then replace all of your lugnuts with ones without the stupid caps. I've lost count of how many studs I've drilled and sockets I've broken at work because of those caps or the fact that it had been 5 years since the people had any of there tires off the car, or a combination of both.

what kind of bit and drill do I need to accomplish this ? how do the studs come out of the Hub, do i have to remove the hub or can I pound them out while they are on the vehicle ?

Get a cheap socket and hammer it on.

The stock size lugnut is 13/16"

I recently did this kind of job.

I used a 5/8" socket.

It takes quite a bit of hammering to get it on, but it works.

Use a breaker bar to loosen it.

jerrywagner said:

what kind of bit and drill do I need to accomplish this ? how do the studs come out of the Hub, do i have to remove the hub or can I pound them out while they are on the vehicle ?

Click to expand...

Lug studs are splined to be press fit into the axle or hub flange, and are installed from the back side of the flange.

If you have truly annihilated the lug nut as you say, your only bet now is to drill the lug stud. You will need a SMALL (no larger than 3/16") SHARP high speed steel or carbide drill bit, and drill a pilot hole down the EXACT center of the lug stud. Once you have that hole drilled thru completely, then it's time ot move up a somewhat larger bit (approx 5/16") and repeat.

The final drill size should be 1/2 inch, but you do NOT want to drill all the way thru the stud. You want to drill this hole ONLY as deep as the lug nut itself, and then the nut will fall off the remaining portion of the stud.

Once the nut is off, then remove the wheel, and tap out the remaining portion of the lug stud in the axle flange.

CAUTION--if you drill thru the lug stud in the axle flange with a 1/2 drill, you MAY increase the size of the hole in the axle flange, preventing a tight fit for the new lug stud when you press it in. This would mean a new axle flange would be needed--NOT CHEAP!!!!

Once the old lug stud is out, you need to install a new one. To install a new lug stud, place the new stud thru the hole from the back side. Apply grease to two 1/2" flat washers, and slide them over the stud from the front. Thread a 1/2-20 open ended lug nut onto the stud, with the FLAT SIDE of the nut towards the axle flange. Tighten the nut to draw the lug stud splines into the hole in the axle flange. When the stud bottoms on it's head, then remove the lug nut and washers, and reinstall the wheel in the normal manner.

uvaldetxj said:

Get a cheap socket and hammer it on.

The stock size lugnut is 13/16"

I recently did this kind of job.

I used a 5/8" socket.

It takes quite a bit of hammering to get it on, but it works.

Use a breaker bar to loosen it.

Click to expand...

The stock lug nut on an XJ is not 13/16, but 3/4, unless the chrome is badly damaged already.

If you peel off the chrome and the steel beneath is not too badly pitted and rusted away, it will be 18 mm.

A big mistake many people make is to use sockets that are too shallow on the lug nuts. Many sockets these days are not cut deep enough to accommodate the acorn head of the lug, and so they only engage half the surface, messing it up badly.

IF you have access to a junkyard where you can get cheap replacement rims, by far the fastest and CHEAPEST way to do this is to get a bi-metal hole saw just slightly larger than the lug nuts and drill the rim out around the stuck lug nut. You can then remove the wheel and get to whats left of the stuck lug nut and cut it off.

Here's a link to a thread with at least 3 pages of suggestions that did not work for me.

http://jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=660187&page=1&pp=20

Drilled the rims, went to the junk yard and bought two aluminum Laredo rims for $6.50 each. The two rims ended up being cheaper than a cobalt drill bit to drill them the stud out. Of course if you can't get any really cheap rims, it makes no sense to do this.

DDCxj said:

drill out the stud then replace all of your lugnuts with ones without the stupid caps. I've lost count of how many studs I've drilled and sockets I've broken at work because of those caps or the fact that it had been 5 years since the people had any of there tires off the car, or a combination of both.

Click to expand...

In defense of all the wrenchers out there... in my experience, the Chrysler "aluminum cap" lug nuts eventually fail - regardless of what you DO or DO NOT do with/to them!

My Jeep turns six years old this month... and when I went to rotate my tires last month, I was missing one cap... and another came loose during my removal. (I grabbed a couple of spare nuts off the shelf... we've replaced these nuts with Real Chrome Lugnuts before - and kept the originals as spares!).

Now, granted, I've never seen what kind of life these nuts *could* live in a perfect world. In my state, we have mandatory inspections... so some goon with a pumped-up impact wrench is required to remove and replace my lug nuts annually.

THAT is who *I* blame.

Den

DenLip said:

In defense of all the wrenchers out there... in my experience, the Chrysler "aluminum cap" lug nuts eventually fail - regardless of what you DO or DO NOT do with/to them!

Click to expand...

x2.
They are totally useless. I replaced all of them after wasting a whole weekend wrestling with them.

Got a welder?

Easiest solution for me in this situation is to weld another lugnut on top of the old one...be careful not ot weld it to the stud.

Let it cool off for a few minutes and then break it loose just like any other lugnut.

DenLip said:

In defense of all the wrenchers out there... in my experience, the Chrysler "aluminum cap" lug nuts eventually fail - regardless of what you DO or DO NOT do with/to them!

My Jeep turns six years old this month... and when I went to rotate my tires last month, I was missing one cap... and another came loose during my removal. (I grabbed a couple of spare nuts off the shelf... we've replaced these nuts with Real Chrome Lugnuts before - and kept the originals as spares!).

Now, granted, I've never seen what kind of life these nuts *could* live in a perfect world. In my state, we have mandatory inspections... so some goon with a pumped-up impact wrench is required to remove and replace my lug nuts annually.

THAT is who *I* blame.

Den

Click to expand...

I agree 1000%. The Chryco OEM lugnuts totally tweet, and are just ASKING to be a problem as they age. My first act on my 2000 XJ was to replace the OEM lugnuts with aftermarket solid nuts, to avoid this hassle.

Matthew Currie said:

The stock lug nut on an XJ is not 13/16, but 3/4, unless the chrome is badly damaged already.

If you peel off the chrome and the steel beneath is not too badly pitted and rusted away, it will be 18 mm.

A big mistake many people make is to use sockets that are too shallow on the lug nuts. Many sockets these days are not cut deep enough to accommodate the acorn head of the lug, and so they only engage half the surface, messing it up badly.

Click to expand...

Are you positive that the stock size is 3/4"?

Every XJ that i've encountered has used 13/16" lugs.

I've tried fitting a 3/4" on them, and 3/4" was too small.

First I would use a socket that was too small, hammer it on they try a breaker bar to get it off, if that failed to work and drilling was the only option, use a hss(high speed steel) carbide reverse drill bit, get it as close to dead center, use a good drill and lots of pressure and low speed. with the reverse drill bit in, sometimes it catches and breaks the nut loose(or bolt, this is how i get broken bolts out) and remember to use coolant type device like the coolant bars to save your drill bits when drilling hard materials like metal.

Thanks to all drilling was the option