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oil filter housing

Ben H

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fresno
I cant get it off. I am using the type 60 torque socket with a 3/8" open end wrench, with a breaker bar on the 3/8". I have use penetrating oil. WD40. I don't know if i should use a torch to heat it? What gives? I am afraid of breaking the torque bolt and then having to pull the whole motor to fix a little bolt. All I am trying to do is fix a damn oil leak and it is more frustrating than replacing the rear main seal. Anyone run into this before?

2000, 4.0L
 
You may want to loosen/remove the motor mount to gain a little extra room.We did and dropped the motor down,helped a little but it was still a pain.
Wayne
 
I just did mine two nights ago ... 3/8" T-60 with 12" breaker bar ... it's about all that will fit (width-wise) in the tight space. The 1/2" T-60 socket I had was too large to fit in the narrow gap between the nut and the frame. I had to buy a 3/8" Breakneck Torx socket set from Autozone (~$10.00). The nut was on really, really tight. The old rubber o-ring dries up and holds it on well. Give it a few good whacks with a mallet and it will break free. It's a messy job as road grime mixed with old engine oil falls on you as you're working under there.

My only suggestion is to clean both of the mating surfaces with a little emery paper or the built-up rust won't let the housing mate flush with the engine and she'll continue to leak. Just put some tape over the engine side to keep debris out. Keep everything very clean as you're opening her up.
 
Tighten it slightly before loosening.

Also, use penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or Kroil (sp?)....WD-40 isn't a penetrating oil, nor is it a lubricating agent. It's just Water Displacement formula #40...

Jim
 
i got it off. I was just being weak with it. fixed the leak and am glad it is not the rear main seal again. thanks
 
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