np231 30mm fill bolt stuck

Sting25 · Nov 25, 2005

Ok I have searched and read allot on stuck and broken bolts.. But nothing on a bolt of this size.

I just swapped my t-case and got the new one all bolted in and can not get the fluid fill bolt out. I have now mostly rounded it off.

things done so far..

1. 2 days of PB

2. 30 mm socket with ratchet

3. 30 mm socket with impact wrench

4. 30 mm socket with the high lift handle

5. cut a line across the bolt to use a screw driver and hammer to try and get it to move.

I plan on maybe trying to heat it? Or use an easy out? I could drill it but won’t that kill my t-case?

any ideas are appreciated.

5-90 · Nov 25, 2005

Centre drill or prick punch the bolt - not too deep, but dead centre. The divot is just to locate a punch.

Heat to several hundred degrees with a torch - again, heating the bolt directly, rather than the surrounding metal.

While the bolt is hot, touch a block of paraffin wax (or a candle will do) to the edge of the bolt - this will allow the wax to melt and seep into the threads.

Once the bolt has cooled, place a prick punch in the divot you created earlier. Fetch the punch ONE and ONLY ONE solid whack with a hammer - prefereably a 3 to 4 pound drilling hammer.

The bolt should now be loose. If it's not, it's like the label sez - "rinse, lather, repeat."

Make sure the fill plug is out when you're heating the lower drain plug, or you're apt to blow a case seal (due to expanding air and the vent not being able to keep up.)

5-90

Sting25 · Nov 25, 2005

5-90 said:
Centre drill or prick punch the bolt - not too deep, but dead centre. The divot is just to locate a punch.

Heat to several hundred degrees with a torch - again, heating the bolt directly, rather than the surrounding metal.

While the bolt is hot, touch a block of paraffin wax (or a candle will do) to the edge of the bolt - this will allow the wax to melt and seep into the threads.

Once the bolt has cooled, place a prick punch in the divot you created earlier. Fetch the punch ONE and ONLY ONE solid whack with a hammer - prefereably a 3 to 4 pound drilling hammer.

The bolt should now be loose. If it's not, it's like the label sez - "rinse, lather, repeat."

Make sure the fill plug is out when you're heating the lower drain plug, or you're apt to blow a case seal (due to expanding air and the vent not being able to keep up.)

5-90

I will try this early tomorrow I like playing with fire!!!

thank you.

Wayne Sihler · Nov 25, 2005

On those bolts the heads have rounded coners anyway,maybe a wrench of the correct size will do the trick.
Wayne

carmike692000 · Nov 25, 2005

I can't imagine what a wrench would do that a socket wouldn't.

dizzymac · Nov 25, 2005

last resort...try a pipe wrench...carefully

xj trenton · Nov 25, 2005

This is a very commom problem I have found that a couple of good hits with a 5lb hammer on the bolt face work great then use a 6 point socket only and and an impact will work if you can rent or borrow a 1" impact use that. The reason this happens it that 2 diiferent meatals act on each other and cause them to corrode together replace the bolt, and don't forget to use an antiseize compound on both fill and drain plugs. anddon't over tighten when you reasemble you only need snug. just my.02 from 25 years of doing this.

Wayne Sihler · Nov 25, 2005

carmike692000 said:
I can't imagine what a wrench would do that a socket wouldn't.

This plug already has rounded coners,most sockets grip the coners,a wrench would grip the flats.
Wayne

carmike692000 · Nov 25, 2005

Wayne Sihler said:
most sockets grip the coners

Ahh, I didn't know that.

Kejtar · Nov 25, 2005

Wayne Sihler said:
This plug already has rounded coners,most sockets grip the coners,a wrench would grip the flats.
Wayne

Best would be to get a six point socket and using a grinder cut of the lip that angles outward. Then it will sit nicely against the head of the bolt and grip real tight and allow you to put a breaker bar on it without slipping of the bolt head.

ChiXJeff · Nov 25, 2005

Wayne Sihler said:
This plug already has rounded coners,most sockets grip the coners,a wrench would grip the flats.
Wayne

Try something like a Snap-On FlankDrive. Don't know who else has this, but it *DOES* work. Their sockets do grip more on the flats than on the corner.

carmike692000 · Nov 25, 2005

See, that's why I didn't know sockets typically grip corners. My dad's a Snap-On dealer.

Sting25 · Nov 26, 2005

Woot I got it!

Thank you everyone.

I torched it and hit it with a hammer and it was loose enough to spin off with my hands.

thank you for all the advise.

old_man · Nov 26, 2005

If you need a replacement, I have one in my Tcase spares box.

np231 30mm fill bolt stuck

Sting25

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xj trenton

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