View Full Version : Lift installed - one problem remains...
ttboo
July 15th, 2003, 18:10
Need some help!!!
I finally got my new RE 3.5" spring packs on straight, but something ain't right. Here's a pic...
http://members.rogers.com/g2jeep/030715_rear_springs.jpg
The gap between the springs and the plate on the axle is 1/4 inch, and the spring locating peg is touching the axle.
The spring packs are the RE-1463 packs.
Anyone else with these springs have these problems? What's my best fix?
Any advice gratefully received.
whoozey1953
July 15th, 2003, 18:16
Looks like the easiest fix is to take it loose and cut off .25" of the peg. What's that brown stuff on the axle? could it be ... RUST?
Glad I live in Az for that reason, no water=no rust. LOL
RCP Phx
July 15th, 2003, 18:23
RE usually puts an addition spacer on the bolt for shimming,just remove it.
Also make sure the pin fits in the hole,my 1463's came with a larger pin size and didnt fit!
juicexj24
July 15th, 2003, 18:32
ya cut the bolt off or use the shim if you don't have a slip yoke kit. And holy rust bat man. I would rattle can black the axle if it was me. Juice
chartierfamily
July 15th, 2003, 20:55
Be careful if you cut off the extra 1/4". Make sure you cut it all the way through, if you try and tap the partially cut piece off, the bolt will break and the springs will come unsprung.
Also, let me know if you get any driveline vibration. I put the RE 3.5" superflex kit on my 98' and it vibrates during acceleration. I dropped the transfer case 1" and it helped a lot but there still is some vibration. I am debating on the axle shims or the cv style driveshaft kit to cure the remaining vibration but haven't decided yet.
ttboo
July 15th, 2003, 21:25
Thanks folks!! I'll have a crack at it tomorrow morning.
And as for the rust... you think that's bad? You should have seen the rockers!!!
RCP Phx
July 15th, 2003, 21:40
"DO NOT CUT THE BOLTS",until you check for the spacers.Otherwise youll be cutting to much off the bolt!
Also I see daylight so I dont think the pins fit!
PS:the best thing to do is bolt them(the spacers) to the top of the spring pack.That way you know where they are if you need to shim later and you wont possibly need to shorten the bolts!
2xtreme
July 15th, 2003, 22:07
Usually the pins are rather snug. Are you shure that you have torqued the four ubolt nuts up to the proper torque setting?? I have different springs but that is my first suspision, then I would look at how they fit in the centering pin and if they are too long or too large a diameter. I would not cut it, I would get the right one, they should be snug.
Michael
2xtreme
July 15th, 2003, 22:07
PS. That is not drivable like that!!!
Just to make sure.
Michael
65_Toy
July 16th, 2003, 05:07
Don't cut, put clamps on the springs to hold them together, take off the u-bolts, move the axle away from the spring, unbolt the pin, remove a spacer or two from the pin, reinstall.
Ivan
July 16th, 2003, 06:43
Like RCP said... it's the pin head that is oversized. Don't cut anything off the bolt. There should be enough room even with the spacers for the head to fit into the spring perch.
All it took me was a few swirls with a dremel tool to make the spring perch hole a tad bigger....
Ivan
ttboo
July 16th, 2003, 16:48
Ivan - I already drilled the hole larger, like it says in the instructions ;-)
- the pins are sitting on the axle, they're just too damn long.
Anyway, I did something else this morning - I fit new UJs to my driveshaft and refit it to the Jeep
to check my driveline angles. Here's what it looks like...
http://members.rogers.com/g2jeep/030716_angles_1.jpg
I calculate the angle between driveshaft and diff at about 10 degrees.
How do I work out what angle to shim?
I'm guessing that 6 degrees should do it - am I right?
In fact, do I even need to shim?
(sorry if this is a dumb question - this is the first lift I've fitted)
Thanks for all your advice so far :-)
RCP Phx
July 16th, 2003, 16:54
Well by what little you have told us about your jeep,Ill assume you dont have an SYE and CV Driveshaft.So with said your pinion angle should be about 1* less than your transfer case output shaft(driveshaft angle doesnt factor).
ttboo
July 16th, 2003, 17:21
Yeah, no SYE, no cv driveshaft... no money :-(
Didn't realise the driveshaft angle didn't come into it - thanks for the info - makes a whole lot of sense now I think about it.
So now I need to check the angle between driveshaft and t-case, right? - but won't it also be about 10 degrees??
Thanks
RCP Phx
July 16th, 2003, 17:34
Your only concerned with the tranfer case output shaft angle!No "between" anything,you can measure that off the valve cover!
http://4xshaft.com/images/2joint_angle.gif
ttboo
July 16th, 2003, 18:09
OK, but an angle is always measured between two lines - in this case it's the angle between t-case output (or valve cover) and horizontial or ground. The pic really helps - wish I'd seen this before I started posting. Thanks.
ttboo
July 18th, 2003, 20:48
OK, got the springs sorted today. There was a 1/4" spacer which I removed and now it all fits together great. Wish I spotted that when I put them in. Thanks for all your help folks. Now I just have to cure the vibes... :-)
whoozey1953
July 19th, 2003, 05:23
SYE and CV shaft should solve the vibe problem
jimbar
July 19th, 2003, 08:24
Guess what, your gonna put those pin spacers back in when you get your shims!
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