Any tips for RE hack and tap SYE?

[Kejtar]

yeah... I know I should have gotten the HD one but... no extra $$ and no time to really do it right so lets leave it at that...

Anyways, I have a 98 with 8.25 rear, and probably between 3" and 4" of lift (it's 9.5" from teh top of the axle to the bottom of the framerail where the bumpstop mounts). I'm expecting to have to cut off the piece of the shaft, do the regular drill tap routine... but what else? I currently have a 1" tcase drop (or actually rusty's crossmember with the 1" drop) which is there to stay till I get time to do something different and I got 3* shims... Am I to understand right that the diff has to point it's outpput (input.. whathave you) right at the tcase? anyone with simliar setup? I'm hoping to get this taken care of this weekend as my tcase has picked up CRAZY whine (or actually not tcase but front shaft I think)...this happened from me having to add 1/4" spacer to the tcase to temporarily get rid of vibes from the longer leaf pack went in to replace the sagging (and wrapping/s shaped) stock with AAL

Kejtar

[Jump This]

You do know you will need a new driveshaft don't you? You do want to keep the angle as low as possible (I have heard 2* or less standing still). I have the RE 4.5 with that same SYE, no problem...not even using transfer case drop.

[Kejtar]

yup... I'm getting the whole shebang... the yoke and the shaft.... The transfercase drop would go away if I had a good crossmember that was sturdy enough (got two stockers that are bent out of shape.... might make something out of it sometime later... or fix up the rusty's one for more clearance).
Jump This, do you have any shims in the rear?
Kejtar

[Jump This]

When I ordered my kit, I thaught I was getting the entire leaf pack...but NOOOOOOOO. They sent me a AAL with a 2" block. The block is angled.....

[Kejtar]

how much angled? kind of a bulls eye figure?

[Jump This]

I can't realy tell...looks to be only a few *s, but don't know for sure...sorry. Call RE and ask...they MIGHT know (not the top notch company all the time if you know what i mean)

[Safari Ary]

Originally posted by Jump This
(not the top notch company all the time if you know what i mean)

I really hope you're wrong right now. I'm about to call them and ask them to send me a new flange 'cause mine is f-ed up. I've had it on since ~October and it's got quite a bit of play in it now. See my "back from tellico with problems....rear axle woes...." thread for more details.

Ary

[Kejtar]

Ary... let me know how that works out for you... I just ordered my stuff from DPG and I'm hoping that I won't have any problems!

[Dazz]

I'm running the RE 4.5" full packs with 1.5" shackels and 2* degree shims for my Hack and tap SYE.
I longest part was cuting the output shaft, it took roughly 2 grinding wheels to get it off.

[Kejtar]

hmmmmm
looks like I might end up removing my shims then when I install it....

[Wayne Sihler]

I,m at 3+ inches and used a 6* shim to line things up.The output shaft was only hardened on the outside .We had the output running when we cut it off,went real fast with air grinder and cutoff wheel.
Becareful when you tap the hole.
Wayne

[Kejtar]

what are the potential problems with tapping the hole? (except screweing up the threads?)

[LawlessXJ]

I'm running the RE SYE & shaft and same rear lift as Dazz but I've got 6* shims (which is what RE suggested I use). I still have a 1" t-case drop from when I was at 3" of lift. I'll probably remove it at some point, but for now everything is smooth and running great.

As for a tip? Be sure every inch of bare skin, including your face is covered when you're making that cut...

[Safari Ary]

oh, and let the damn cat cool down before you try to do anything down there. I burned the crap out of both of my hands today:( Can you tell I'm not having a good day?:rolleyes:

Ary

[Kejtar]

oh... I know that already... I have left so far (working on other things) close to a square foot of my skin (running total)... the upside is... it grows back..... :D

Kejtar

[Dazz]

When I was cutting the shaft, I had the engine running in reverse and I gotten a little burnt from the exh. manifold. (doh)
Yeah, cover your neck, face, and nose from all that debris when using the cut off wheel. It will make you itch or even give you some bad metal splinters.

Since my XJ is an 91' (used the RE 1801 SYE kit), I had a minor TC fluid leak. It was later fixed with some RTV gasket though. :-)

[Ivan]

KetchupJar.... :)

The cutting of the shaft was easy... a small frame power saw (not a big worm drive monster) and a metal cutting blade was what i used. As described above, when you are ready to cut, start the enging, put tranny in reverse, and the shaft will spin in the correct direction relative to your cutting instrument. This will give you sort of lathe type of cut. Apply even pressure on the saw and go for it. It took me less than a minute to cut the shaft.

For the hole, get about a 1/8" titanium bit for your pilot hole. Work up another step, before you drill your final hole. Be sure to go deep enough so that the bolt won't bottom out too soon in the hole.

Use a tap wrench, not a crescent wrench to spin the tap or that will spell certain disaster (read broken tap). Take half turn cuts, and back out to clean burrs. LOTS of cutting oil. Most important, take your time with this part so you don't break a tap.

It took me a little over an hour from start to finish, even with installing new shims. I wound up with 6 degree shims when it was all said and done. I have 6" of lift with shackles (which will rotate the pinion up).

Good luck!

Ivan

[Kejtar]

what do you mean by tap wrench not crescent wrench?

[Rev Den]

"I have 6" of lift with shackles"

PLEASE tell me you mean you have shackles, and 6" of lift. Not a 6" shackle lift.

Rev

[Kejtar]

Rev Den... remember this is CA....... everythign is possible ;)

[Rev Den]

Tap wrench...the right tool for the right job. A Cresent (or metric adjustable) wrench will cause uneven loading of the tap and break it.

http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdImage/45713.jpg

http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdImage/37330.jpg

Rev

[Kejtar]

oh... ok.. thanks.. .I got one :) I will try to remember to use that :D

[Rev Den]

If you got the route of cutting it with the engine running, Remember to shut off the engine.....BEFORE attempting to tap it.


Otherwise we may have to call you lefty.

Rev

[Dazz]

A few illustrations...

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/1255P1010285-med.JPG

I wrapped it up to keep the bearing seals clean...
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/1255p1010288-med.JPG

The tap...
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/1255P1010291-med.JPG

Done...
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/1255p1010298-med.jpg

[Safari Ary]

Hmm, are you sure that's the correct way for the bolts to go through the flanges? I put mine through the other way so that the companion flange(the one that slides on the shaft) acted like nuts for the bolts, and then the bolts were just added security. I think that's how it said to do it in the instruction as well. Not sure though.

Ary

[Jump This]

One more tip here. When you work on getting your flat finished cut edge (does that make any sense?) the surface you have now left on your shaft....start the motor back up and run a disk sander across the surface. This will leave a perfectly (as best as we can) flat edge for your flange to bolt onto...goood luck

[EricsXJ]

Kejtar - heres a few of my tips....

Cutting the shaft was definitely the most difficult part. I was using a craftsman skill saw with metal cutting wheel (7 or 8" I forget) Like the others I put a peice of masking tape around the splines to mark my cut. That worked well. Do a practice cut (you don't have to cut all the way through) on part of the shaft closer to the end to get a feel for what it will be like. At first I tried it with the engine running and shaft spinning but didn't like that at all. Thankfully this was one of my practice cuts and not the real thing. I ended up doing it with the shaft stationary and feel that I got a very clean and straight cut. Take lots of breaks cutting - your arms will get tired and the shaft can cool down.

Drilling the hole - keeping the bit straight and centered is the key. I used the stock yoke as a guide like described on this page step #4 (http://www.carolinarockshop.com/RESYEC&TXJ.htm) It worked well even though my hole was a tad off-center it still works fine. I forget if I started with a 1/16" bit or 1/8". 1/8" might be the way to go to lessen the chance of it breaking off in the shaft. If that happens it will not make you happy! Make sure you drill deep enough. If your hole is drilled too shallow you will have problems later on tapping enough threads for the bolt! <- very important!

Tapping - Definitely use a tap handle but not one of those super long ones. I used a medium / small size like the first pic that Rev Dan posted. Don't force the tap! Work it in and when it starts to get tight back it out, clean the threads and lube it with lots of cutting oil. You will do this over and over till the hole is threaded all the way. Take your time and this will be the easiest part of the job.

I've had mine on for 1.5 years and it works great. (my settup: RE 4.5" leaf packs, stock shackles, 8.25 axle with 6* shims.) You want the pinion to point slightly lower than parallel (or even) with the driveshaft (1 or 2*) That will account for any axle wrap you have when accelerating.

[Ivan]

Originally posted by Rev Den
"I have 6" of lift with shackles"

PLEASE tell me you mean you have shackles, and 6" of lift. Not a 6" shackle lift.

Rev

Grammar is not my forte.... Yes, 6 inches of total lift, 1.5" of which include shackles and the rest by spring pack.

What a mental vision..... 6" lift with shackles. That would be 12" long shackles :eek:

[Dazz]

Originally posted by Ary'01XJ
Hmm, are you sure that's the correct way for the bolts to go through the flanges? I put mine through the other way so that the companion flange(the one that slides on the shaft) acted like nuts for the bolts, and then the bolts were just added security. I think that's how it said to do it in the instruction as well. Not sure though.

Ary
I first mounted the bolts the other way but it left very little room between the two flanges. I don't believe it will be an issue mounting the bolts this way. It also allowed the driveshaft to mount on alot easier.

As you can see in the pic, there is very little room for the nuts to fit in between the two flanges. I didn't want the nuts to rub onto the bearing flange when the driveshaft was spinning.

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/1255p1010297-med.JPG

[Kejtar]

hmmmm any other thoughs from anyone about the bolt reversal?

[Safari Ary]

Remi, don't worry about the bolt reversal. You and I have the newer T-case and don't have the red piece in that picture. There's plenty of room for us to put the nuts on, so I wouldn't worry about it. I now understand why he did it this way. I'd stick with the way RE says to do it though, I think they tapped that flange for a reason(no offense intended Dazz). HTH

Ary

[Kejtar]

ok... that's what I was thinking.... :D btw, how is your problem coming along?

[Safari Ary]

No progress as of yet, trying to figure out if I wanna take the risk of this not being a warranty item and having the problem repeat itself(which seems to be the case if it happens in the first place). Or if I wanna beg, borrow, and steal and get a HD unit. Or, if I wanna track down a "new" output shaft, and start from scratch with a new flange. Prolly make the decision today, I'll keep ya'll posted.

Ary

[rockwerks]

I longest part was cuting the output shaft, it took roughly 2 grinding wheels to get it off.



I used a skil saw and a metal cuttoff blade took all of three minutes...to cut it of...and another 5 to make sure it was flat with the grinder