How much fluid loss is expectable when I break the tranny oil cooler line?

My question to the forum veterans is this- How much fluid loss is expectable when I break the "quick connects" in the tranny oil cooler return line? And would you dare trust a cheapo 3/8 hose repair versus a $60 dealer part?

postscript- (this old 92 Laredo has seen 170,000 punishing miles, much of it in the New Mexico desert. Being its third owner, it lives an easier but "deboned" existence as a commuting vehicle in Orlando FL(Ratland). I retired her from baby hauling due to reliabilty issues, now I take the chances!

As with any older jeep, she's dripping tolerably from every mating surface and seal, but. But the tranny oil cooler return line is dripping catastropically, a quart every two days. The rubber run that spans the gap between oil pan and fan shroud has brittled and torn away from the pressed on steel end. Desert heat never put such hurting on rubber parts, but the florida humidity sure did!

Ive read thoroughly what other knuckle busters have done, and Im going to DIY the repair. Just real concerned I'll leak out more fluid than I have on hand, and wind up parked, permanantly

You shouldnt loose much if any. IIRC, when I did my last one, just a little.

BTW, I ran 3/8 hose on the hookup for 2 years, never a problem.

Good luck,
Andrew

I replaced the complete lines right from chysler. Why? Because $75.00 lines are alot cheaper than a $1,500 to 2,000 dollar tranny rebuild. I have seen hose with worm clamps come off and if this happens with it running it will puke out all of the fluid and burn up the tranny. I used to work at a tranny shop....seen it all to many times.

I poked a hole in one of the tranny cooler lines a few weeks ago and lost about 1.5 quarts. I assume that's the capacity of the cooler inside the radiator since it's higher than where I punctured the line.

With the Tranny filled properly, you could lose close to 4 quarts.

If you go the direct route, use two hose clamps on the end. It's a little rough on some ends to get two hose clamps on there, I use two thin ones and keep a supply in the tool box.
After driving a couple for 17 and 18 years respectively, the direct hook up lasts longer than the OEM "O" ring hookup and is more durable. Just a pain in the ass when it comes time to work on something, that requires removing the lines. I often have to cut them off.
I now use fork lift hydraulic line, it's much stiffer than regular oil line and is just about bullet proof and always leave a little or actually as much extra as I can, without it rubbing on anything that rotates or cuts. A little extra length, gives you the option of cutting the line off if you must and not running out of length.
I tried new "O" rings which didn't last and have had every OEM type connector on three XJ's start leaking eventually. I even hooked one tranny line on a branch and pulled it apart at the connector.

Thank you all for helping me out. I'm ready to start attacking that leak armed with wisdom! Now, where did I put my bailing wire and duct tape...ah yes...it's holding my fan shroud together!

K

The Jeep engineers did pretty well with the XJ, but the tranny cooler line connectors were IMO one of there failures, marginal at best.
The direct hook up lasts longer and in most all ways is better (except at disassembly time).
Double check the tightness of your clamps periodically, they do relax with age, some clamps more than others depending on quality. I favor the stainless variety, with the slots, not the ridges. Forget aluminum clamps.
Another thing to watch for is not to over tighten, as the small thin clamp will cut the line if it gets canted or is overtightened.

I had the stock rubber line areas wear through/corrode twice, so I bought some Power steering line hose, and cut & flared my lines and used slotted clamps. Wiht th elonger lines they stay away from my harmonic balancer and I haven't noticed them leaking or coming loose since then.

Here's a follow up. I did the "direct repair" to the low-pressure return line, took a tube cutter to the steel sections, buttered the severed ends with RTV, sleeved over a section of PS hose, screwed on a pair of worm drive clamps on each end, and it hasnt wept one drop since.

Since that repair, I've done the oil filter mount o-rings (this leak had caked my starter really thick), and re-plumbed the CCV system.

This is unbelievable, but my rear main leak stopped after I ignorantly plugged my rear CCV elbow, and then put it back correctly. Plugging it caused oil to belch out from both elbows, three valve cover bolt holes, and from the rear main, causing a nice oil smolder on the header pipe.

Maybe the oil pushing past fluffed the seal it up, but its more likely that blocking the elbow blew the sludge out of the valve cover's PCV valve. At any rate, my jeep no longer drips, and thanks to you all again for the advice.

Oh yeah, I missed the whole point of my original question! When I did cut the line, almost nothing came out, I had leaked so far down that the tranny dropped out of gear at stops.

"Jeeps forgive our wrenched mistakes! Run 'em dry but they won't break! "

unknown