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Water Proofing the Motor...

L

LittleAnthony88

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New York
Now i did do a search with ok answers but im looking for more updated answers, ideas, and new tricks to water proof it. My last trip to paragon i stalled out twice and had to wait 15 minutes for it to dry off. Now i know it wasnt my filter or throttle body, injectors or plugs going into the block, so it had to be the distributor.
When i got home and power washed the motor, as soon as i hit the distributor cap, my suspitions were correct and she stalled out! Now im looking for something i can get at lowes or home depot that will water proof it up and fuse pannel and computer.
I need something that can be taken off incase i need to do work to it so please nothing with a permanent seal. One guy told me to take the cap off and run a bead of cylicone around the edge and it will form a gasket. As for the wires, whats the best to use and how should i apply the sealant.

Thanks and sorry for asking a question thats already on the board, but im looking for more updated ideas and pics would be great!!

Thanks!!!!
 
LittleAnthony88 said:
One guy told me to take the cap off and run a bead of cylicone around the edge and it will form a gasket.
Click to expand...
Don't forget to drill a hole in the top then and run a thin hose up as a vent.

As for the wires, whats the best to use and how should i apply the sealant.
Click to expand...
Dielectric grease inside the boot.
 
LittleAnthony88 said:
Kejtar, why vent the rotor? I dont quite understrand?
Click to expand...
OK, take a baloon: when it's warm outside it grows, when it's cold it shrinks. If you seal up the rotor you create a "baloon" that has to deal with the change in pressure resulting from the change in surrounding temperature.
 
Kejtar said:
OK, take a baloon: when it's warm outside it grows, when it's cold it shrinks. If you seal up the rotor you create a "baloon" that has to deal with the change in pressure resulting from the change in surrounding temperature.
Click to expand...

I think you meant cap. When you seal the cap the air has some where to go as it expands and contract. Hot cap and air inside + water coming up into the engine compartment = water sucked into the cap as the hot air is cooled.

I took everything apart and used pure silicone grease on all the seals, oxguard on all the contacts. Sounds like you've handle the connections, just have to deal with the cap now.

Though last time through the bathtub I was losing cylinders here and there. Got the attention of the newbies riding with me. :D
 
Grizzley said:
HAHAHAHA, 90% of the board think you're kidding, 9% think they remember something from college about that, and 1% are trying to find an answer. :laugh3:
Click to expand...
LOL.... well just to throw them off even more I'll add things like intensification and probabilistic sum into the mix :D
 
If you want to make a non-permanent gasket for the distributor, just go to your local parts store and get a sheet of cork/rubber gasket material and cut out a gasket to fit. Should work enough to keep water out while being easily removable.
 
Kejtar said:
LOL.... well just to throw them off even more I'll add things like intensification and probabilistic sum into the mix :D
Click to expand...

I'm no mathematician or IT geek, but I'm guessing you're referring to Fuzzy Logic.

"IF X AND Y THEN Z" kind of stuff?

That's as deep of a guess as I can come up with on a Monday.

DJ

That is, unless the fuzz is on your teeth?
 
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might want to try out some green marine grease for all your bearings and u joints etc , its water proof and supposably pretty damn good , theres a vendor on pirate4x4.com if you cant find it any where .
 
88rockxj said:
might want to try out some green marine grease for all your bearings and u joints etc , its water proof and supposably pretty damn good , theres a vendor on pirate4x4.com if you cant find it any where .
Click to expand...

I always use marine grease everywhere there is a fitting. I get it from pep boys in the blue tube.
 
LittleAnthony88 said:
I always use marine grease everywhere there is a fitting. I get it from pep boys in the blue tube.
Click to expand...


me too but theres some new type of green grease out thats supposed to be really good and you couldnt really find before, i hope to try it out when i get the chance to order some and hopefully it works good like a few over on pirate are saying.
 
you know, instead of waiting for it to dry out just carry a can of wd40 with you. when your cap gets wet just hose a little in there and shake it out real hard and wipe with a paper towel. or carry some rubbing alcohol with you. pour some in the cap and pour it out a couple of hard shakes and your done. the alcohol mixes with the water and makes it evaporate faster.
 
Just gotta find one that's big enough:
splash-ziplock.gif
 
Kejtar said:
Don't forget to drill a hole in the top then and run a thin hose up as a vent.


Dielectric grease inside the boot.
Click to expand...

I just got the dielectric, and silicone thats flexible and waterproof. Now besides doing all the inside of the boots and a touch on the outter lip; i still dont understand why to vent the cap? If this is a big thing to vent it, then can someone please throw together a write-up of how to run it and all.

Last question, besides the cap and all of the plugs, the fuse box, computer compnent, what else sould i do?
Maybe run a bead around top & bottom of the injectors?
Maybe a bead around all vent hoses.
How about a bead around the PVC valve & oil cap?
Any and all electrical components?
Heres a pic of my heat/splash shield and the 6" duct vents from lowes covering the K&N open element filter. The filter was the only thing clean under the hood with my little contraption....
fu2yrn.jpg


Did i miss anything?? And thanks to you all !!
 
Last edited:
COOL, so im all set. But i still dont understand the purpose of venting the cap when its already sealed on! What happens if i dont drill a hole and run a tube??
 
I use Marine boat grease. The stuff you get at the marine shops. FIGURE........this grease is used for the same purpose you are explaining you need it for, and its made to be able to resist salt water. Another great thing about it is that you can wash it off if you need to. Silicone doesn't come off as easy. Just spead it all over your electrical connections, distributer, spark plug wires harnesses....it will do the trick.

Here is a write up on my 20$ snorkel...check it out. I am addicted to water crossings. I can not stay out of them. Down in KY this summer I was driving in water a 1/4 of the way up my windshield and did not stop. I did Hydrolock the moter once this summer, but the snorkel was not enabled when it happened.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50489
 
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