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Fuel Injector Problem?

MudslinginXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pennsylvania
I was on my way home around lunch time and i see my check engine light come on. I drive home (about 5 min) and check the codes. :repair: I got 12 and 27. 12 Saying the battery was disconnected, and 27 saying Fuel Injector Control Circuit. I have searched and know why that code comes up but im not sure how to fix it. Do i have to take it somewhere to get it scanned? Would i be able to buy a scanner to read codes so i dont have to take it to a dealer?

Also, its a 92xj, 4.0ltr-AW4-242 and when i was driving home, it didnt stall, sputter, nothing, it seemed to run fine.
 
MudslinginXJ said:
I did the turn the key on and off 5 times trick and it read 12, 27, and 55. 55 just letting you know thats the end of codes though.
That's good you don't need a code reader the to get the codes.
I would start with running some injector cleaner they could be sticking a little.
 
I did put some injector cleaner in. I wasnt able to fill up all the way though and the bottle of injector cleaner treats up to 25 gal. or something. Could that effect the performance and throw that code?
 
I unhooked the battery to reset the computer and filled up all the way thinking that maybe there was to much fuel injector cleaner since i dumped the whole bottle in and it treats up to 25 gallons. After awhile the light came back on, i kept my eye on the gauges and nothing looked unusual and it didnt seem to run any different but im not sure what to do now, or how to fix it. Should i just take it to a dealer and bite the bullet?
 
Check Engine Light keeps coming on and now its starting to idle real bad whenever the light does come on. Still reading code 27. Anyone know how to fix this? According to my Haynes Manual, Any Injector #1-6 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. What should i do to fix this. Im pretty much clueless as its not really telling me how to fix it. Also, if the light comes on, and i shut the jeep off, whenever i start it again, the light wont be on, and it will run fine for a little bit, until the light comes back on. Could some trouble codes need to be erased with a Scan tool? According ot the hanes manual it says dont disconnect the battery from the vehincle in an attempt to clear codes. If necessary, have the codes cleared by a dealer service department. Is this just a way to get me to go to the stealership to?

If anyone could give me some insight on this problem i'd appreciate it. I just started a new job, and i can afford to lose my way of transportation.
 
You can start by getting it running, with the misbehavior occurring. Now, one at a time, unplug fuel injectors, note behavior and plug back in. When you pull a functioning injector, the idle should drop briefly, and then recover. When you pull a non-firing one, there will be no change. If you find a bad one, the next step is to stop the engine, and swap the plug of the bad one with its nearest swappable neighbor. Restart, and unplug each of those two. If the problem follows the plug, it's a wiring harness or computer problem. If it follows the injector, it's a bad injector. I've had problems, and heard of others also, in a 93 with a defective wiring harness splice, causing similar symptoms. If you find the harness is bad, check (engine off, ignition off) with an ohmmeter, on the common (+) leads to the injectors. They all feed off a common source at the ignition module. The positive side is hot whenever the ignition is on, and the computer switches the negative side of the circuit for each injector. I think the wire is orange and black. You can test this easily enough. Find a terminal on the ignition module that gives you a zero ohm reading to one side of an injector. Now check from that point to the same side of each injector plug. Any resistance is a no-no. It will tend to get worse as the engine heats up, so sometimes these symptoms will come and go. It may be good enough to fire the injector when it's cold, but reach a critical point when hot. If you find nothing on that side, check with an ohmmeter the wires going from the injector plugs to the computer, and also check the pins on that plug very carefully for looseness, etc.

If the problem is a bad harness splice, you can just slice open the harness and solder a piece of wire in to bypass the splice. I went through this with the 93, spending days on diagnosis, and many many dollars on tuneup parts and even a junkyard computer, before I found the problem. It took about 20 minutes actually to fix it once I found it.

Getting back to the original running test, some injector plugs are harder to pull than others. I'm not sure what years, or circumstances, change this, but if yours have little metal spring clips in them, they can be very hard to pull. It may be helpful to remove all the spring clips before the test, and put them back in later. Anyway, practice pulling them first.
 
Ok thanks, i'll try that. I took it to the auto parts store and they ran a diagonistic test on it with there code reader and nothing came up. Its weird though, because if it runs for awhile at high speeds the check engine light will come on, and it will idle rough but run fine at around 1500rpms and up. If i were to shut the engine down, and restart the check engine light isn't on anymore, and it runs fine as if nothing ever happened.
 
MudslinginXJ said:
Ok thanks, i'll try that. I took it to the auto parts store and they ran a diagonistic test on it with there code reader and nothing came up. Its weird though, because if it runs for awhile at high speeds the check engine light will come on, and it will idle rough but run fine at around 1500rpms and up. If i were to shut the engine down, and restart the check engine light isn't on anymore, and it runs fine as if nothing ever happened.
Now that is sounding more like a sticking EGR valve, that don't through a code every time.
 
There seems to be some confusion about reading codes. There is no difference between a code read with the key method and a code read by a scan tool at the auto parts store or dealer. There is no reason to worry about clearing or "erasing" the codes until the problem is fixed.

Do I understand that you had no problems before adding injector cleaner and filling the tank? Don't guess it is something as simple as bad gas/fuel filter?
 
Correct there were no problems before adding the fuel injector cleaner and filling up. It could of been bad fuel. I know its not the fuel filter though b/c i just replaced that.
 
ok, so a 92 "DOESNT" have an EGR Valve. What would be next on the list of things to check? There is a possibility it was bad fuel, but will it throw code 27 (Fuel Injector Circuit) like this every so often?
 
logdog said:
Uhmmmm..........yes it does. Unless my 92 is a freak. hasta
It is indeed a freak. Or someone swapped in an earlier Renix motor (pre 91).:laugh3:

K
 
Is there a possibility that some renix engines were installed in early model 92 sport editions? On the renix engines, where is the EGR located? Anyway to tell between a Renix and a non-renix (not sure what you call them):)
 
MudslinginXJ said:
Is there a possibility that some renix engines were installed in early model 92 sport editions? On the renix engines, where is the EGR located? Anyway to tell between a Renix and a non-renix (not sure what you call them):)
If your throttle body is bolted to the manifold with 3 bolts then you have a renix. If it has 4 then it's a H.O.(high output).
The egr connects the exhaust and intake manifolds and lets some of the exhaust gases back into the intake to help reduce combustion temps among other things.

K
 
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