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steering box plate reinforcement (bolts?)

VegasAnthony

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Las Vegas
Im gonna do a Crok type plate to my unibody and was wondering if I could get away with using the OEM bolts ..Not sure if there long enough??

btw anyone know what type botls they require.. ie..size , pitch ect..
 
VegasAnthony said:
Im gonna do a Crok type plate to my unibody and was wondering if I could get away with using the OEM bolts ..Not sure if there long enough??

btw anyone know what type botls they require.. ie..size , pitch ect..
I don't think they would be long enough as the oem's are just right in length. IIRC you will want 4.5" bolts, and they are 9/16" coarse thread.
Make sure that your bolt is not too long though as in that you do not run out of thread and bottom out the shank against the threaded holes in the steering gear.
 
VegasAnthony said:
Im gonna do a Crok type plate to my unibody and was wondering if I could get away with using the OEM bolts ..Not sure if there long enough??

btw anyone know what type botls they require.. ie..size , pitch ect..

I done the homebrew CRok plate as well. IIRC the stock bolts are too short. I do know, I went to the hardware store and bought replacements. I bought beefy bolts. Grade 8 or 8.8, I don't remember.
 
thanx, I was hoping it wasnt one of those funky metric thread pitch bolts..
they are a PITA to procure ..dang nut and bolt store up and moved 30 miles farther --in the middle of downtown
 
what are you doing to reinforce the inner part of the mount?
 
buzzbombxj said:
what are you doing to reinforce the inner part of the mount?

I used 1/4" steel plate for inner and outer. The inner replaces that aluminum triangle spacer thingy.
The CRok plate is 3/16" thick.
 
Haleyes said:
I used 1/4" steel plate for inner and outer. The inner replaces that aluminum triangle spacer thingy.
The CRok plate is 3/16" thick.
isn't 1/4" a bit "shallow" ? The stock spacer is IIRC about 1/2" and the innter c-rok plate is a 3/16" plate with "standof" like spacers on it.
 
Kejtar said:
isn't 1/4" a bit "shallow" ? The stock spacer is IIRC about 1/2" and the innter c-rok plate is a 3/16" plate with "standof" like spacers on it.

Yes, I'm sorry.

I did use 1/4" plate. On the inner I tig'd on some (IIRC)7/16" spacers. Spacers were 1" OD, 1/2" ID.

Sorry, should have been more detailed.
 
so the total width of the inner plate plus the spacers to get rid of the triangle thing should be 1/2'' to 11/16''? im in the prosess of making the inner and outer plates cause i get the metal for free, and i have more time than money
 
buzzbombxj said:
so the total width of the inner plate plus the spacers to get rid of the triangle thing should be 1/2'' to 11/16''? im in the prosess of making the inner and outer plates cause i get the metal for free, and i have more time than money
11/16"

I'm not sure if you can make the whole thing 11/16" thick or not. May be clearance issues.
Too long ago, don't remember.
Besides, that would be almost too beefy I'd think.

I just made the 3 spacers out of some 1" round stock, and drilled a 1/2" hole in them.

I made a template out of cardboard, from an actual CRok plate. Helped alot with hole placement on the plates.
 
thanks for all this good info. im planning on going to pick and pull and taking the steering box off a jeep there and making cardbord templets, that way i can just have my jeep apart once
 
buzzbombxj said:
thanks for all this good info. im planning on going to pick and pull and taking the steering box off a jeep there and making cardbord templets, that way i can just have my jeep apart once

You realize there are more holes than just the ones for the steering box right?
Well, I should say on an actual CRock plate, there are more holes than just the steering box holes. I suppose you could just make a plate for the box only.
 
Kejtar said:
I don't think they would be long enough as the oem's are just right in length. IIRC you will want 4.5" bolts, and they are 9/16" coarse thread.
Make sure that your bolt is not too long though as in that you do not run out of thread and bottom out the shank against the threaded holes in the steering gear.



I thought the steering box bolts were 7/16 course thread and the heavy duty one in the back was 9/16". Either way thats what I used with my C-Rok plate, but I upgraded to 3/4" bolts for the rear frame hole bolt when I put my front bumper on.
 
CartsXJ said:
I thought the steering box bolts were 7/16 course thread and the heavy duty one in the back was 9/16". Either way thats what I used with my C-Rok plate, but I upgraded to 3/4" bolts for the rear frame hole bolt when I put my front bumper on.
You're absolutely right, my bad.
 
Also, you can't just replace the triangular spacer with a solid plate.
The steering box doesn't mount "flat". There has to be a cut or milled out section like the OEM spacer has.
 
in the future for anyone doing this what i have found that helps alot is if youre building it yourself to extend it all the way out to your bumper so your bumper mounts to it (bumper prolly will only fit if you build that yourself too), i also weld it my track bar drop mount so its one piece ,all out of 1/4 .stock bolts are too short
 
Haleyes said:
You realize there are more holes than just the ones for the steering box right?
Well, I should say on an actual CRock plate, there are more holes than just the steering box holes. I suppose you could just make a plate for the box only.
this started out as me making tow hook brackets, but then i thought it would be stupid not to make it tie into where the steering box mounts as well. in addition to the steering box bolts it bolts to the subframe in seven places. i figure i can use these bracket i the future also as the mounting for a winch bumper. this is the pas. side, it will be like this but with the steerinbox bolts too
 
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