Replacing clutch line

My hydralic clutch line cracked on me today I am woundering if anyone has any experience putting a new clutch line in. I just want to know what I am getting into before I do it. 1987 Cherokee 4.0. Thanks

HAs anyone had to fix one of these before?

Metal tube or flex portion of the line?

ive done it it isnt hard at all just make sure you bleed the system really well and flush any contaminates out after you install the new one and i definatly suggest a new one over a used one

Very easy. The hooked hard line portion can get caught up on other lines and stuff but that is the most you really have to worry about. Like already stated bleed the system well when you are done. Also use a bit of tephlon tape or paste on the threads to insure a tight seal.

There is a bleeder screw but all you have to do to bleed it is pump the pedal right. last time i tried using the bleeder screw it did nothing but flush alot of fluid out, there was still tons of air in the system. Is the bleeder just for flushing fluid?

It's leaking where the rubber and metal lines meet by the transmission, where the crimp is to hold it on.

jeepboy381 said:

My hydralic clutch line cracked on me today I am woundering if anyone has any experience putting a new clutch line in. I just want to know what I am getting into before I do it. 1987 Cherokee 4.0. Thanks

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I did my '88 XJ a couple of years ago. It's a one-piece assembly, but the line out of the master cylinder is metal, transitions to rubber flex hose down around the engine, and transitions back to metal where it joins the fitting on the slave cylinder. The hard part is wrestling the hard line out where it runs across the top of the master cylinder, right under the firewall pinch weld. I cut mine with a bolt cutter and removed it in pieces, but I still had to get the new on into position without destroying it.

After the new one is installed, be very careful getting the bleeder screw loose. It's small, and they have been known to shear off. Once you have it loose, you'll either need a friend to help you bleed it, or a Mighty-Vac suction bleeder if you want to do it solo.

jeepboy381 said:

There is a bleeder screw but all you have to do to bleed it is pump the pedal right. last time i tried using the bleeder screw it did nothing but flush alot of fluid out, there was still tons of air in the system. Is the bleeder just for flushing fluid?

Click to expand...

Not quite that simple.

The idea is to move any air bubbles out of the system by pushing them through. You can sit there and just push the peddle all day without accomplishing anything. If your master has gone dry from losing the hose, you may want to pre-bleed it before you attach the new hose. Get a short length of steel brake line that has the same size fitting and use that to bleed the air out of the master into a jar or tin can before you install the new clutch line.

To bleed the system correctly, you need an assistant. The person under the vehicle opens the bleeder screw. The person in the vehicle pushes down the clutch peddle ... gradually, not slam it to the floor ... and holds it while #1 closes the bleeder. Then #2 lets the peddle up.

Then #1 opens the bleeder screw, #2 pushes down and holds, #1 closes bleeder, and #1 releases the peddle.

Do not do more than 2 cycles without refilling the master cylinder. It doesn't hold a lot. Three or four cycles will empty it, allowing air to enter and then you get to start all over.