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Acceptable alignment specs for a 99'?

LoneRanger

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
just got the jeep aligned (with the new RE 3.5" kit on) I was just wondering what the alignment specs are for my jeep so I can compare with the print out I have now from the tire shop.


L.R.
 
Measurements are in inches, let me know if you need mm.

Preferred (Range)

camber -0.25 (-0.75 to 0.50)


caster 7 (5.25 to 8)


toe in 0 (-0.20 to 0.50)


toe out 0 (-0.10 to 0.25)

Sorry for all the editing; it's hard to get a chart to look right.
 
Current specs AFTER the alignment for my Jeep are:


camber left front -.2*
camber right front -.5*

left front caster 5.6*
right front caster 6.0*

left front toe -.01
right front toe -.01


I guess that is acceptable huh?


L.R.
 
I've read that somewhere on the 'net before, but I cannot find any reference source that backs it up (and I work in a library).
 
red91inWA said:
just curious as to WHY the transfer case would come into play....it has nothing to do with steering.
Because it is assumed that with the 242 the vehicle will spend much of its time operating in full-time mode.

For 2WD, the front is sually set for a small amount of toe-in not because they want the tires to run that way, but because when the rear axle pushes the front tires down the road, any slop in tie rod ends, etc, gets taken out and the actual running condition is zero toe. In the old days, the shop I used to go to put a spring-loaded spreader bar between the front tires and then set the toe to zero with the tires forced apart, to simulate the dynamic condition.

In 4WD, the front tires are not being pushed by the back, they are pulling the vehicle forward. Thus, they won't be pushed back to take slack out of the various components and they won't self-correct from nominal toe-in to dynamic zero toe. So they get set to zero.
 
Eagle said:
Because it is assumed that with the 242 the vehicle will spend much of its time operating in full-time mode.

For 2WD, the front is sually set for a small amount of toe-in not because they want the tires to run that way, but because when the rear axle pushes the front tires down the road, any slop in tie rod ends, etc, gets taken out and the actual running condition is zero toe. In the old days, the shop I used to go to put a spring-loaded spreader bar between the front tires and then set the toe to zero with the tires forced apart, to simulate the dynamic condition.

In 4WD, the front tires are not being pushed by the back, they are pulling the vehicle forward. Thus, they won't be pushed back to take slack out of the various components and they won't self-correct from nominal toe-in to dynamic zero toe. So they get set to zero.

I'm thinking they should all be set to 0
 
That makes sense, Eagle, and unfortunately I didn't brink my thumbdrive with my FSMs on it to work today. May I assume that's where this info. would be as I can't (relatively quickly) find it anywhere else?
 
im sorry to sound dumb here, but i like to know things.. i was wondering how you found this out
"..Measurements are in inches, let me know if you need mm.

Preferred (Range)

camber -0.25 (-0.75 to 0.50)


caster 7 (5.25 to 8)


toe in 0 (-0.20 to 0.50)


toe out 0 (-0.10 to 0.25)
..."

and how to measure to see if the truck is in line with these specs?

thanks!

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