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SYE installation

About 2hrs in the vehicle,if you already have the correct tools(lockring and snap-ring pliers).Its really a straight forward install.Its alot easier than cutting and drilling for a H-n-T kit.
 
RCP Phx said:
About 2hrs in the vehicle,if you already have the correct tools(lockring and snap-ring pliers).Its really a straight forward install.Its alot easier than cutting and drilling for a H-n-T kit.

if the TC is out of the rig 30 min job max. its very straight forward, the instructions make it sound worse than it actually is.

and the H&T worse case is about an hour job. the key is to have the engine running and output spinning in lo 4 when you cut it with a circular saw and metal cut off wheel. always a perfect straight cut. then use the adapter as an alignment tool for the drilling.
 
AA's SYE is great quality and super easy to install. You'll need ratcheting wrenches or some tiny hands to get the TC out if you decide to go that route. I left mine in and never had any problems with it. Its like I said very easy, just need a pair of snap ring pliers and standard (and a few metric) to remove it. Just make sure it is in 4L before you take it appart and be sure to hook the oil tube up to the pump before you bolt it all back together. There are really only a few things to take appart and its common sense putting it back together. Go to http://www.cardomain.com/ride/741399 and go to the mods page, I have a few picts there for reference if you like.
 
I just did it this past weekend and it was relatively easy for a newbie transfer case opener like me. The biggest problem was that I didn't have any "heavy duty" lock ring pliers. I sat on my living room floor for 2 hours working to get the big lock ring off the old shaft and another 2 hours to put one on the new shaft. There was lots of swearing and I finally got the new one on by modifying the Napa brand lock ring pliers. I had 2 pairs of weako pliers, Napa and Lisle. The Lisle pliers can't really be modified to open more, so I cut the handle and bumpstops off the Napa pliers to get them to open more.

pliers4xu.jpg
 
I did my AA SYE install about a week ago and I just noticed I didn't get a washer for the plug that covers the vacuum disconnect hole. Did you guys get a washer? I don't think mine is leaking from there, but I'm just wondering...

Here's a pic of the plug and washer from 4x4xplor.com:

DSC08310.jpg
 
Just digging up an old post instead of starting a new one :) but was wondering if any of you have any tips for re-installing the rear 1/2 of the case and oil pump? Other than patience, is there another trick?

Also, the Craftsman Lock Ring pliers I bought worked just fine taking off all the lock rings on my 96 np231J.
 
burby777 said:
Just digging up an old post instead of starting a new one :) but was wondering if any of you have any tips for re-installing the rear 1/2 of the case and oil pump? Other than patience, is there another trick?

Also, the Craftsman Lock Ring pliers I bought worked just fine taking off all the lock rings on my 96 np231J.

the oil pump goes on the outside of the case under the tailcone.

it is a little anoying keeping the spigot attached to it, but not too bad...
 
And it takes patience to get the oil pump to slip onto the splines correctly. Once installed, lift up slightly on the mainshaft while watching the oilpump pickup tube where it enters the oil pump, make sure it's still engaged completely.
 
I stuck the oil pump, filler tube, and rear case half on as one unit. Went right on as if I knew what I was doing (which I didn't/don't) first try. I guess I got lucky.
 
Thanks for the replies! I was a lot more patient today and used the "slide the pump on the splines and attach to pump tube and cross my fingers and hope it stays on" method. Seemed to work. Thanks, this is what public forums are for! :)
 
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