Need pointers, cylinder head install

I have an official Mopar re-built cylinder head, complete with mopar gaskets, to install on my 87xj 4.0l with a bad valve, and I have a couple of questions. My 87 FSM says to "apply an even coat of Perfect Seal compound to both sides of the new head gasket". My 90 FSM (still Renix engine) says, "Do not apply sealing compound on the cylinder head and block gasket surfaces. Do not allow sealing compound to enter the cylinder bore", implying that sealing compound is required. My 01xj FSM specifys that it goes together dry, without any sealing compound. So the question is, do I apply sealing compound to the cylinder head, the block, or does it all go together dry? Next question, when I torque it down, do the head bolts go in clean and dry or oiled?

I use Permatex CopperCote to spray the head gasket. Have been using it since before it was spray. Works great.

Torque values are usually dry unless a locker material is specified.

I'm a professional mechanic, and NEVER apply any sealer to head gaskets and have never had any problems. Torque specs should by dry.

I agree witrh mattmankow. I have replaced the head gaskets on my 90XJ, 94YJ and my 92XJ DD. I didn't apply any type of gasket sealer on any of them. The DD has almost 100,000 miles on the recent head gasket and all is well. Just make sure you torque the head bolts in the proper order and value and then check it again.


chris

A couple other tipe...

Use Teflong pipe dope or LocTite PST on the #11 head bolt (driver's side front,) since it goes into the water jacket.

If you see paint marks on your head bolts, REPLACE THEM! 242 head bolts can only be reused once...

I don't coat cylinder head gaskets with anything - but spray copper does work well (if I end up doing the job again anytime soon.) I do apply a thin coat of RTV copper to both sides of the manifold gasket - which is a huge help. You might also want to find some LocTite #272 for the manifold bolts - it will help in a few years if you put it on now...

I find it easier - especially if you have a helper - to assemble the head and manifolds as a unit on the bench, the install the whole thing on the short block as a unit. Beats fighting with those lower back manifold bolts...

Scotch-Brite. Best thing going for getting gasket residue off and giving a good finish for sealing. With a little luck, a local hardware store or parts house will have the little discs (2-3") that you can chuck up into a drill motor and be done with the job a lot faster.

5-90

One more question, I have an Allen "dial-in" torque wrench thats about 5 years old that all I've ever used it for is lug nuts. Should I get it re-calibrated before I torque down that new cylinder head and who calibrates those things? Thanks for all the advise!

Most definitely, get it checked. Well worth the expense since it may keep you from having to do it all over again.

chris