Boxed rockers...

[Jeffro600]

There was a fairly detailed write-up on how to "box your rockers" for the XJ...ive been searching for an hour and cant find it. Can someone point me in a direction?!?!

[TrailHunter]

Here's how I do it, http://www.4x4trailhunters.com/article.php?id=17

[ECKSJAY]

Here's how I do it, http://www.4x4trailhunters.com/article.php?id=17

Did mine the exact same way except I used 3x6. 3" tall takes you right to the bottom of the pinch, 6" wide goes out a little past the bends in the body lines. That's what protects the sides in addition to being a strong rocker. :)

[Jeffro600]

Did mine the exact same way except I used 3x6. 3" tall takes you right to the bottom of the pinch, 6" wide goes out a little past the bends in the body lines. That's what protects the sides in addition to being a strong rocker. :)

Does anyone have close up shots of where it attatches to the doorsills and any other critial welding points?

[fatwreck]

Here is my writeup:
http://www.projectxj.com/mods/rocker.replacement.htm

I don't have any close up pictures of the weld areas, but I can definitely take some.....just let me know.

Does this really fit into the category of "advanced" fabrication and engineering? :wierd: :laugh3:

[Lou]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55727

Also, check MadXJ.

[RWKHausSupply]

How involved is removing the fenders? I mean I know it cant be to dificult but is there alot in the engine compatment to have to disco?

Also I too would like a picture of the fender to rocker area if someone could post it or a few even.

[fatwreck]

I just put a new fender on yesterday....so I'm pretty familiar with how to take them off.

It takes about 45 minutes. You have to pull the front fiberglass piece off...well, at least pull it out to get access to the fender bolts behind the headlights. I pulled all of the trim pieces around the headlights/corner lights, the grill, and then the front end by removing the bolts above the radiator. That gives you the access you need to the fenders. In addition to the bolts where the hood meets the fenders, there are also a couple of bolts behind the doors. They are pretty easy to get to though.

When I did my rockers, I left the fenders on and I trimmed them to match the new tubing. I'm glad I did it this way and I would recommend it to anyone who wants to do this. I didn't weld the fenders to the tubing....I'm still not sure if that is the route to go or not, but definitely trim them around the tubing.

[Jeffro600]

Does this really fit into the category of "advanced" fabrication and engineering? :wierd: :laugh3:


If it involves cutting off body parts, welding and more than 6 hours of my time, i would say yes!! http://www.naxja.org/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif

[RWKHausSupply]

Is it really necc. to remove the doors? I mean cant I just open it to get in to under the jam area on the outside body to rocker area?

[XJ Un-Limited]

It's not a write up, but lot's of pictures on doing my own setup. 2x4x3/16 box and 1x1/4x3/16 angle to help bring it together. I left the doors and fenders on the whole time. http://community.webshots.com/album/241298993wSilaC

[fatwreck]

I have removable front doors and I left them on during this project. I wanted to make sure the correct fitment was still there.

[TrailHunter]

Is it really necc. to remove the doors? I mean cant I just open it to get in to under the jam area on the outside body to rocker area?

If you don't remove the doors, it's near impossible to weld the rocker back in right underneight them. If you're okay with that, then give it a try. On my first set, I started the doors on and and found that I needed to pull them to do the job to my satisfaction.

[TrailHunter]

I have removable front doors and I left them on during this project. I wanted to make sure the correct fitment was still there.

I cut the rocker panel out on the outer most corner of the door sill. I basically keep the sheetmetal in the door sill which gaurentees proper fitment.

[RWKHausSupply]

If you don't remove the doors, it's near impossible to weld the rocker back in right underneight them. If you're okay with that, then give it a try. On my first set, I started the doors on and and found that I needed to pull them to do the job to my satisfaction.

Well cant you just open the doors?

[TrailHunter]

The door is still right there over the rocker. It blocks a couple inches. In general it's more comfortable working when the doors aren't there. You can spend the time pulling the doors or you can spend the time welding in odd positions around the doors. You will not get a continous bead if you leave the doors on the way I cut mine. I wanted it water tight. Nor can you grind under the door to make it look nice.

[fatwreck]

I cut the rocker panel out on the outer most corner of the door sill. I basically keep the sheetmetal in the door sill which gaurentees proper fitment.

I cut mine in the same spot:

http://www.projectxj.com/images/rocker.replacement/IMG_4780.JPG

I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't getting any funky welds or warpage that would keep the door from closing properly.

I just opened my doors during the welding....it wasn't too bad welding around them. I guess it's just peronsal preference.

[93xjmark]

This pic shows how the 2x6x1/4 box tube fits against the unibody and what was cut out. I was opening the wheelwells at the same time. I sand blasted the tubing, welded the endcaps on, and drilled and tapped the airline connection, and drain to make them into air tanks. Pressure tested at 300 psi overnight to check for leaks. Mounting these this high, the seatbelt bolt will be in the way. I cut a section of the tube out, flipped it inside out, and box welded it in. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90/xjmark/rockerfit.jpg
It's welded along the whole length upper rocker, plug welded from the inside via 40 1/2" holes, all around the lower A-pillar, and stitch welded along the bottom. A tight fit is the key. I used a piece of paper as a feeler gage along all weld areas before welding.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90/xjmark/rockerholes.jpg
This pic shows all the holes that were drilled through the seam along the bottom of the floor pan. It's double walled where I cut the pinch seam out from under it, basically even with the floor pan. I have a light inside the jeep to show the holes better. This is where most of the strength comes into play. Very important....Clean the metal VERY well before welding, and use a can of weld through primer. This addition alone stiffened up the chassis noticably. I'll try to find and post pics of the finished rockers.

[ECKSJAY]

The door is still right there over the rocker. It blocks a couple inches. In general it's more comfortable working when the doors aren't there. You can spend the time pulling the doors or you can spend the time welding in odd positions around the doors. You will not get a continous bead if you leave the doors on the way I cut mine. I wanted it water tight. Nor can you grind under the door to make it look nice.

A single bead is not necessary for this application. Silicone works just fine for finishing after any grinding and painting.

[Darky]

Noob question, but for someone with little to no metal working experience, how difficult would you rate this? I like the look and the protection, but have no skills at this point in time for welding and cutting metal.

[massxj]

i hope my rockers look as good as xjmarks when im done . iv seen them up close and they are sweet

[TrailHunter]

I just did another set last weekend and I used a variation of it that I don't think has been done yet with an outer rail.

http://forum.4x4trailhunters.com/uploads//post-1-1128905136.jpg

http://forum.4x4trailhunters.com/uploads//post-1-1128905170.jpg

[Darky]

Looks pretty sweet. That's the type I kinda want. Except I like the idea of the 2x6 with an outer rail. Easy access to a future roof rack, and further from rocks.

[northwestxj]

I just did another set last weekend and I used a variation of it that I don't think has been done yet with an outer rail.

I also just had mine done thanks to the help of some friends (thanks mike and tim :) ) and did the same thing using the outer rail. i think its a very good idea so you can use it to 'pivot' around obstacles if you have to and to help prevent damage to your doors. just went wheeling on sunday and they definately helped to keep rocks, etc. away from the body.

[davidt]

been done...but looks good

[HCA-Bronco]

TrailHunter I has a question.. How much to make a set with the outer rail and to ship them????? I understand the lenths would be diffrent but I have a 95 cherokee with rotting out passenger side rocker and I need to replace it I don't care if I have to trim fenders for a smooth Finish.. But how much for you to build and ship to SC?

Here is a link to what my rocker looks like
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/showmedia.php?id=255387

[davidt]

here are the two sets I helped with, the outer rail is .250 wall DOM, kind of overkill but it works well. When I do my manche, I am going to make sure to tie them in to the frame. My friends didn't and they messed up the doors so they don't close properly.
http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=150&stc=1&d=1117937878
http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=151&stc=1&d=1117937878

[TrailHunter]

What kind of bender do you have that can handle .250 wall tube? On the rig that it bent up into the door, what happened and how was it welded to the door sill/floor? Was it a complete 100% bead top and bottom? I'm just curious what it took to fail.

[Jes]

here are the two sets I helped with, the outer rail is .250 wall DOM, kind of overkill but it works well. When I do my manche, I am going to make sure to tie them in to the frame. My friends didn't and they messed up the doors so they don't close properly.


Not surprising they would fail if they're just welded to the sheet metal body(even if welded all the way around).
I've told people in the past that they would bend if used for rock crawling unless they were tied into the frame somehow, it always fell on def ears though.

[fatwreck]

If they are braced internally, they should hold up well to most real world abuse.

http://www.projectxj.com/images/rocker.replacement/IMG_4790.JPG

It wasn't until recently on this trail....when I basically jumped my rig over a rock and it landed on the corner of the rocker right by the fender...that they finally bent some:

http://www.projectxj.com/images/trail.runs/10.09.05-indy/images/IMG_6860.jpg

If you're going to beat on them on trails like these....then I think there is a need for additional bracing. I'm just not sure what the BEST way to do that is.

[Jes]

Mine are tied to my subframe and to my cage.
Unfortunately, I used .120 wall and they're dented and the driver's side has a slight bow in it.

[davidt]

My buddy has a jd2 converted to hydro...here is a picture of the trail we were on where the damage occured.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/davetheladiesman/P9110032.jpg
They are welded to the body and they are welded all the way around. Jes, I am listening ;) I have some 1.75" .120 wall leftover from another project. I am going to brace it in three places to the frame with the tube.
jes, do you have any pics of how you did it?

[TrailHunter]

I am working on another project where the owner already had boxed in rockers and now we've chopped it all up and are building the cage off of the sliders. It really is an easy platform to build off of. I haven't done it yet, but we will tie the slider into the sub-frame when we're done.

http://forum.4x4trailhunters.com/uploads//post-1-1128993765.jpg

[RWKHausSupply]

I am working on another project where the owner already had boxed in rockers and now we've chopped it all up and are building the cage off of the sliders. It really is an easy platform to build off of. I haven't done it yet, but we will tie the slider into the sub-frame when we're done.


Sounds good but I dont know if it would be benifitial to tie the cage to the sliders then do runners/braces over to the frame? If you could I would do the cage to the frame and tie the rockers to the cage or atleast mount the cage between the frame and the sliders on the braces.

In any case, you may want to look in to doing diag. kickers from the cage about 12" up from the sliders over to the frame. At least then its triang. and would significantly improve the strength. just my .02

[Jes]

jes, do you have any pics of how you did it?

Some pictures are in this thread... My cage buildup. (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18679&page=1&pp=15&highlight=box+rockers)

Didn't look to see if these were in there so I'll post them here.
Here is where I cut...
http://www.fototime.com/{61129077-E212-41EA-845B-890BD9C307C9}/picture.JPG
2X6X.120 box(I should have used 2X6X.188)...
http://www.fototime.com/{556D4BD3-EC28-4A75-AE89-7C2A80926FB8}/picture.JPG
Cage lowered through floor to weld on feet that connect the cage/rockers/subframe together...
http://www.fototime.com/{383A298B-C2DA-4EF6-A21C-868953604EA3}/picture.JPG
Here you can see the subframe/rocker interface...
http://www.fototime.com/{3A535F15-F4B1-4712-8FCD-E98373C0FA8A}/picture.JPG