what kinda transfer case is best?

cherokeeproject · Sep 28, 2005

i have an 87 pioneer thats only 2wd and i have come a cross a front D44 axel that would work with my jeep. but i cant decide whats the best Tcase to go with. ive got a 2" lift that was given to me from my brother thats in my garage somewhere and the right size driveshaft for a 4wd with the 2" lift. and ive got about 2 grand saved up for thae case but who should i go with?? any suggestions??

xjj33p3r · Sep 28, 2005

BrettM mentioned a tcase that was extremely beefy a couple of months ago, that is now being sold. It's got 3 different ranges, as apposed to the atlas. Something like 1:1, 3:1, and 5.4:1. They even have a video of the tcase pushing the jeep with the stock brakes locked up. I think it was stak4x4... something like that.

EDIT:

Here's the site
http://www.stak4x4.com

XJ_ranger · Sep 28, 2005

are you looking to run a factory t-case from a jeep or another car?

is the front d44 a drivers side or passenger side drop?

are you looking for a specific gear ratio?

are you looking to lift higher some day?

what is your budget for transfer cases?

planefixer · Sep 28, 2005

If you want to spend the big bucks get an Atlas (probably overkill though).

cherokeeproject · Oct 1, 2005

XJ_ranger said:
are you looking to run a factory t-case from a jeep or another car?

is the front d44 a drivers side or passenger side drop?

are you looking for a specific gear ratio?

are you looking to lift higher some day?

what is your budget for transfer cases?

its a driver side.

something low ~ 4.0:1 at the mid

high enough lift to run 35" tires

moneys not an issue im building this thing as strong as possible. only the best for my baby. dont wanna half to buy things twice (at least things that cost more that $20)

XJ_ranger · Oct 1, 2005

if you are looking to run semi-factory equipment - a fliped D300 with high strength outputs and 4:1 gears will get you the strength and gearing...

though with the flip kit, outputs, gears, and sticks

you are almost looking at the cost of an atlasII - geared for whatever you want - 2.73, 3.something, 4:1, 5.something, 6?

and if you are looking at spending 2k on a t-case - then might as well make it 2600 and get the 3 speed STaK case. If this build is going to have some time before it is done, id wait about 3 months and see how the staks hold up - saw a thread on Pirate the other day that they are shipping them....

BrettM · Oct 1, 2005

I would either get a Stak case, or pick up a slightly used 2-speed Atlas cheap from someone changing to the 3 speed Stak or 4 speed Atlas.

xjj33p3r · Oct 1, 2005

Well, I saw that the stak case would actually push a jeep with its brakes fully engaged, so would a brake upgrade also have to be considered?

BrettM · Oct 1, 2005

xjj33p3r said:
Well, I saw that the stak case would actually push a jeep with its brakes fully engaged, so would a brake upgrade also have to be considered?

that totally depends on the rest of your setup, a Stak case doesn't magically push through stock brakes. If you have a manual transmission this is a non-issue because the clutch will be in when you want to stop. If you have an auto tranny it could be a problem, but that depends on your overall gearing and what brakes you already have. If you still have 3.55s in the diffs it probably won't be a big deal, but if you have 5.38s in the diffs, the Stak in 5:1, and stock D30/D35 brakes, then it will probably drive right through the brakes easily.

Though I would never be one to discourage a brake upgrade.

Another way to avoid this problem is either knocking your AW4 into nuetral when you want to stop, or if you have it set up for manual shifting you could just put the tranny into 2nd gear, which will cut your crawl ratio about in half.

MrShoeBoy · Oct 2, 2005

BrettM said:
that totally or if you have it set up for manual shifting you could just put the tranny into 2nd gear, which will cut your crawl ratio about in half.

Could this be possible from with a kit from www.awshifting.com?

AARON

EricsXJ · Oct 2, 2005

I hope to get a Stak 3-speed when I can afford it. The mid-range 3.0:1 would be PERFECT for most trails and the ultra-low 5.44:1 is there when you need it, like creeping real slow down a steep slope. You won't be trying to stop with your brakes then anyway.

xjj33p3r · Oct 2, 2005

BrettM said:
that totally depends on the rest of your setup, a Stak case doesn't magically push through stock brakes. If you have a manual transmission this is a non-issue because the clutch will be in when you want to stop. If you have an auto tranny it could be a problem, but that depends on your overall gearing and what brakes you already have. If you still have 3.55s in the diffs it probably won't be a big deal, but if you have 5.38s in the diffs, the Stak in 5:1, and stock D30/D35 brakes, then it will probably drive right through the brakes easily.

Though I would never be one to discourage a brake upgrade.

Another way to avoid this problem is either knocking your AW4 into nuetral when you want to stop, or if you have it set up for manual shifting you could just put the tranny into 2nd gear, which will cut your crawl ratio about in half.

Thanks for clarifying that. I had never really thought of any solution that that, but hey, now I know. This is kind of getting off topic, but would upgrading to WJ knuckles/brakes help any of this? I also mention the knuckles/spindles because they seperate the draglink and tie rod, and are almost identicle to the Teraflex upgrade.

coolpete1 · Oct 2, 2005

if your only gonna have a 2inch lift then you should save your money and put a stock 231 in,why buy a 2000 dollar atlas to run 31" tires.

XJ_ranger · Oct 2, 2005

BrettM said:
that totally depends on the rest of your setup, a Stak case doesn't magically push through stock brakes. If you have a manual transmission this is a non-issue because the clutch will be in when you want to stop. If you have an auto tranny it could be a problem, but that depends on your overall gearing and what brakes you already have. If you still have 3.55s in the diffs it probably won't be a big deal, but if you have 5.38s in the diffs, the Stak in 5:1, and stock D30/D35 brakes, then it will probably drive right through the brakes easily.

Though I would never be one to discourage a brake upgrade.

Another way to avoid this problem is either knocking your AW4 into nuetral when you want to stop, or if you have it set up for manual shifting you could just put the tranny into 2nd gear, which will cut your crawl ratio about in half.

only flaw in the logic there - the HP d30 gearing limit is 4.88

but i do understand

cherokeeproject · Oct 2, 2005

coolpete1 said:
if your only gonna have a 2inch lift then you should save your money and put a stock 231 in,why buy a 2000 dollar atlas to run 31" tires.

i dont plan to stay with just 2" lift i later plan to move to a lift big enough to fit 35's and the D44 was practically free. but its also ganna be replaced with fron and rear D60's cut to the proper length and i just want the BEST POSSIBLE transfer case out there cuz this thing is ganna be a BEAST when its finished.

front and rear D60's
35" swamper tsl boggers and seperate set of BFG a/t sitting on MT 16" classic lock
4 wheel disc brakes with stainless steel lines
and a 4.6L stroker

this is just the major plans for the project, i plan to set up a web site when i get the funds together so dont worry you'll all hear about it. pics and write ups too. just doing my homework right now and getting the insiders opinion.

what kinda transfer case is best?

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