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Battery Temp Sensor

HaleYes

HaleYes

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Clay County, IL
My check engine light has been going on and off over the past couple of days. I took it to AutoZone and had it read. P1493 was the only code it read. P1493 according to the FSM is Battery Tempature Sensor voltage too low. Is this sensor necessary? Dealer only item? Is there any way around it? Any help is apperciated!:wave: TIA.
 
Haleyes said:
My check engine light has been going on and off over the past couple of days. I took it to AutoZone and had it read. P1493 was the only code it read. P1493 according to the FSM is Battery Tempature Sensor voltage too low. Is this sensor necessary? Dealer only item? Is there any way around it? Any help is apperciated!:wave: TIA.
Click to expand...
What makes you think the sensors bad?
 
Well, I don't know:dunno: . I guess I just assumed.
 
I would pull the battery and clean everything up good.
That sensors in the bottom of the tray and that's a nasty spot.
Clean the connection and everything and try it.
If the sensor voltage was high it could mean the battery was overheating.
 
langer1 said:
I would pull the battery and clean everything up good.
That sensors in the bottom of the tray and that's a nasty spot.
Clean the connection and everything and try it.
If the sensor voltage was high it could mean the battery was overheating.
Click to expand...

Thats on the agenda for this weekend. Just thought someone might know a quick easy fix. Never know till you ask.....or search.(done that too.) Batt. seems to be functioning normally, and Alt. is putting out good too, according to volt meter. I'll check it with my Fluke to verify.

Thanks again.
 
On the slight chance sombody finds the search function in the future, thought I would update the thread. Not that it' s really that much help, but I have nothing better to do right now.

Turns out it was a bad battery. It did not get abnormally hot or anything out of the norm. I went out one morning and it would not do anything, nada. I started to investigate and fond the positave terminal slightly loose. The actual post not the connection. A slight ammount of acid had seeped up around the post. It would slightly move and lose connection. Crazy how something so simple can be such a PIA!

New RedTop, and no problems or check engine since.
 
Haleyes said:
On the slight chance sombody finds the search function in the future, thought I would update the thread. Not that it' s really that much help, but I have nothing better to do right now.

Turns out it was a bad battery. It did not get abnormally hot or anything out of the norm. I went out one morning and it would not do anything, nada. I started to investigate and fond the positave terminal slightly loose. The actual post not the connection. A slight ammount of acid had seeped up around the post. It would slightly move and lose connection. Crazy how something so simple can be such a PIA!

New RedTop, and no problems or check engine since.
Click to expand...

OK.

I lied.
I'm kinda back to square one.
CE back on, same code.
Found the connector plug has a little meltage. I assume from a loose connection. The little catch-me grab-me thingy is broken off, so I assume loose connection.
Couldn't I just cut out the plug and solder the connections? Assuming the sensor is still good. Lots of assuming here I know...
If I just cut the plug out, would the CE light go off after so many starts?
Stealership wants $40 for one of these useless sensors.
TIA guys!
 
BTT.


Anybody??
 
No you can't just cut it out. Whats wrong with just fixing things properly when needed.
I can understand why people want to even start half a$$ things.
 
what a great idea....you battery is cold...your battery is warm....

Thanks to Cryco for another completely worthless POS to fix later.
 
Cutting out the connector won't hurt anything, but I wouldn't use solder there. I would use high quality crimp terminals as solder can rust over time, even when covered with heat shrink. Maybe get a two-wire trailer-style connector from Radio Crap.
 
why on earth would anyone want to cut a connector off a wiring harness? or go to a place like auto zone for tech advise? Do you go to mcdonalds and order steak and shrimp? you get what you pay for dude.....now go see someone with some real diagnostic equipment ,experience,and information and by all means dont go cuttin shuff off of your wiring harness .....damn people..........the only reason to cut a harness is at the junkyard to fix what some schmuck cut off your recently aquired used rig in the past.........need I say more?
 
Timber, where did you get the idea a crimp connection is better than solder? Ideally you need a mechanical as well as an electrical portion in a connection. For high reliability you should crimp as well as solder. If you only have one option, solder is always the best.

Around a battery that outgasses, a crimp connection by itself is asking for trouble. for absolute reliability the connection should also be sealed. I use liquid electrical tape, then slip heat shrink over it and heat it. You get a completely gas tight seal.
Trust me, I've been an EE for 30+ years and carried both a military and NASA certification.
 
old_man said:
Around a battery that outgasses, a crimp connection by itself is asking for trouble. for absolute reliability the connection should also be sealed. I use liquid electrical tape, then slip heat shrink over it and heat it. You get a completely gas tight seal.
Click to expand...

Done exactly that.
Thanks, old_man.:wave:

No CE light anymore.
 
old_man said:
Timber, where did you get the idea a crimp connection is better than solder? Ideally you need a mechanical as well as an electrical portion in a connection. For high reliability you should crimp as well as solder. If you only have one option, solder is always the best.

Around a battery that outgasses, a crimp connection by itself is asking for trouble. for absolute reliability the connection should also be sealed. I use liquid electrical tape, then slip heat shrink over it and heat it. You get a completely gas tight seal.
Trust me, I've been an EE for 30+ years and carried both a military and NASA certification.
Click to expand...
Never said it was better. Without knowing how well someone else can solder, I won't recommend it. Just like welding, too much heat makes the wires surrounding the connection brittle; too little heat and there's a cold joint. Crimping is mechanically just as sound a connection as soldering, and the average person will be more likely to crimp properly than solder a joint properly. I agree that it should be sealed; I use liquid electrical tape myself.
 
liquid electrical tape makes a mess

do it nicely with heat shrink butt connectors.
quick, clean, easy, and tight
 
xjeepster said:
sooo how exactly do you fix this problem? lol, kinda got a little off topic here
Click to expand...
Many batteries have exploded when over heating so the sensor was added.
So how do you fix it? First determine what the problem is.
 
Chrysler put the battery temp sensor in the engine management system to aid in the Charging System.

The optimimum voltage to charge a battery is dependent on the temperature. All of the recent Chrysler cars have battery temp sensors and the charging system/alternator/generator will vary voltage according to that temp. In winter near freezing I get 14.5 volts, in summer in high temps volts will be down at 13 and somewhere inbetween realative to the temperature.

Battery life is increased and starting is more reliable and the electric system doesn't drag down and dim as much when sitting at a light at idle.

So if the batt temp sensor is bad, you could have the wrong charging voltage and that can wreak havoc with the battery. Could cause it to leak acid, swell, go dead, etc.
 
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