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View Full Version : My front and rear 44 swap progress (56k beware)


tealcherokee
September 17th, 2005, 22:06
Well the rear is done, that was easy, the front is kickin my ass, passy side pumpkin, no clue where im going to put the track bar, still making brake plates.....

the main point of this is the track bar location, hense the advanced fab section

http://tehbaron.com/r_images/DSCN4496.JPG
http://tehbaron.com/r_images/DSCN4497.JPG
http://tehbaron.com/r_images/DSCN4498.JPG
http://tehbaron.com/r_images/DSCN4499.JPG
http://tehbaron.com/r_images/DSCN4500.JPG
http://tehbaron.com/r_images/DSCN4501.JPG
http://tehbaron.com/r_images/DSCN4502.JPG

tealcherokee
September 17th, 2005, 22:10
oh yeah, and spring buckets, and a drag link, and shock mounts, and a driveshaft, and..jeez it never ends

tkm
September 18th, 2005, 04:08
what made you decide to go pass drop? what trans and tcas are you going to run? and are you going to run into clearence issues with the trans tunnel?
also what is your caster angle going to be at ride hight? it looks almost negative in the pics.

I do like how you extended the RE control arms.

tealcherokee
September 18th, 2005, 07:39
thats castor at ride height, i think its positive 2 ish, jeep doesnt touch the highway, so i dont really care to rotate the knuckles

the RE arms are sleeved w/ cold rolled :D

davidt
September 18th, 2005, 08:32
my guess on the tcase is a dana 300 (if he has stock running gear). If he does do this swap, he will run in to issues with the trans tunnel. I just did this swap on my junk, chebby axles can be had cheaper than ferd axles ;)

tealcherokee
September 18th, 2005, 17:20
sry rough morning, my post made no sense

thats topped out, castor is 2 deg at ride height

yes dana 300, no trans tunnel issues cuz i cut most of it out lol

JeepFreak21
September 18th, 2005, 20:19
3 link, eh? Are you going high steer?
Billy

tealcherokee
September 18th, 2005, 22:30
im not doing a full high steer, i am going to do a high knuckle mounted drag link tho....

for the tierod, flipped to the top should be plenty high for me, about 4" further from the ground than the 30

yeah, im looking forward to see how the 3 link works out, all in due time i suspose
im hoping brett can chime in on it, let me know what he thinks

tealcherokee
September 20th, 2005, 22:09
bump for the 3 link... and tackbar help

xjj33p3r
September 20th, 2005, 22:40
Would it be possible to mount the tracbar on the axle truss? That's just a thought as I haven't really done a front axle swap before, but it seems like the only spot on the axle that has room. Also, maybe you could consider moving the body side tracbar mount to the opposite frame rail, and make a mirror on the stock tracbar mount for a d30.

XJ_ranger
September 20th, 2005, 22:45
Would it be possible to mount the tracbar on the axle truss? That's just a thought as I haven't really done a front axle swap before, but it seems like the only spot on the axle that has room. Also, maybe you could consider moving the body side tracbar mount to the opposite frame rail, and make a mirror on the stock tracbar mount for a d30.

and have the trackbar in the complete opposite relationship with the steering linkage?

tealcherokee
September 21st, 2005, 12:30
yeah, definatly cant move it to the other side....

as far as on the truss, i think its going to be too short, and cause some funky steering

xjj33p3r
September 21st, 2005, 12:46
and have the trackbar in the complete opposite relationship with the steering linkage?
Ah I didn't know that would be an issue. So I guess right-hand drive cherokees have all the steering on the opposite side as well?

XJ_ranger
September 21st, 2005, 12:55
Ah I didn't know that would be an issue. So I guess right-hand drive cherokees have all the steering on the opposite side as well?yes sir!

XJ_ranger
September 21st, 2005, 13:00
i think your best option on trackbar is to mount it on the truss, as low as possible, and then run hi-steer components on thoes purdy flat top knuckles, possibly with a spacer if it needs to be higher.

the flatter the panhard the better from an "ideal" geometry standpoint, and the same holds true for the drag link.

after you finish the coil buckets, put the weight of the vehicle on jackstands under the axle with the suspention at ride height and get the string out.

Israel
September 21st, 2005, 16:52
Out of curiosity, are you going to have any clearance issues with the starter being in the way of the driveshaft or is the t-case output low enough to avoid any problems?

red91
September 21st, 2005, 17:03
Out of curiosity, are you going to have any clearance issues with the starter being in the way of the driveshaft or is the t-case output low enough to avoid any problems?

Cool user name man ! :thumbup:

sorry to interupt.

tealcherokee
September 21st, 2005, 20:24
no clue, i already dented the oil pan, but im chopping like 2" off that anyway, i dont need that much oil, it holds so much more than the block and planned turbo could ever use

clearence issues will get fixed as i find them :D

Israel
September 21st, 2005, 22:56
Cool user name man !

Thanks!:)

Well, keep us updated. I have a 78 d44 with those damn cast mounts and I keep toying with the idea of going passenger drop with it and only retubing the drivers side. It is especially tempting since I'd really like to go to a D300 as well and a passenger drop axle would keep me from having to flip the case. I don't mind clearancing the floor for the case, but that starter sure worries me.

tealcherokee
October 6th, 2005, 09:12
well, heres the newest update, my jeep is a piece of shit and.... oh wait, axles

i shortened the front driveshaft, put that on, no springs no shocks, i hit the bell housing with the driveshaft a little, but the pitman arm hits the tie rod on the other side first, so, after the 5" of bumpstops are added, it shouldnt hit anything

as far as the track bar, im not liking it at all, its looking like its going to be about 18" long, or should i say short?

i made a new truss, to get about 1" more outta the track bar, but im still not pleased