stalling, or cutting out

91 laredo changed fuel pump, fuel filter, coil, cap & rotor, plug wires, plugs, and the crank sensor. Why would it still cut out....I think its timing but how is it adjusted???????

More info when does it stall or cut out? At start up, cold or hot. When stopping, accelerating or at a certain RPM.

sirshon said:

91 laredo changed fuel pump, fuel filter, coil, cap & rotor, plug wires, plugs, and the crank sensor. Why would it still cut out....I think its timing but how is it adjusted???????

Click to expand...

There is no adjustment for timing.
Jump out the fuel pump ballast resistor and see if it runs better.

at higher rpms and 70mph. tried bypassing the ballast resistor also, no good. a friend said its an ignition control mod. in the computer

thats next

I just had the same problem with mine and it was the idle sensor motor on the throttle body. Just something else to check.

idle sensor motor, that just controlls the idle, right????

sirshon said:

at higher rpms and 70mph. tried bypassing the ballast resistor also, no good. a friend said its an ignition control mod. in the computer

thats next

Click to expand...

Please explain what you mean by cutting out, it sputters, it quits running or what?

man, this started a year ago. whyle driving on the highway it cuts out like its missing one fire. only around 70mph or 2100 rpm. so i changed fuel pump & filter, coil, cap, rotor,and riser coil. finally plugs and wires. and a good vacume line check.oh yea the mechanic said maybe a cps so i did that also i found out that if you really dump it cuts out and even backfires

still got problems
it cuts out when you stomp the gas, a racing guy tells me its not gas because it (skips) he says electrical, what could it be

I got the same problem, and have been tryin to fix for months. Ive had my 90 scoped twice along with the electrical scanned and my TPS tested twice. I have also replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, egr, o2 sensor....and all that. I talked to a guy at a parts store and he mentioned to check for play in the distributor, take cap off and check play in rotor, some thing to try.May be related to the MAP sensor, check your vac lines.

Lusty said:

I talked to a guy at a parts store and he mentioned to check for play in the distributor, take cap off and check play in rotor, some thing to try.

Click to expand...

I think you've hit the nail on the head. A stretched timing chain can cause excessive rotational play in the distributor shaft and rotor and this can play havoc with the spark timing. The same also applies if the distributor drive gear is worn. To distinguish between the two, here's what you do:

1. Remove distributor cap.
2. Check rotational play in rotor. If it seems excessive, the drive gear teeth are worn.
3. If it seems OK, use a wrench to turn the crankshaft. If the crank rotates several degrees before the rotor moves, the timing chain is overstretched and you'll need to replace the timing set.

A bad MAP sensor will cause starting difficulties (maybe no start at all) and the engine will run poorly all the time. The same also applies if the vacuum line to the MAP sensor is broken.
Any other vacuum leak will cause a high idle and high fuel consumption but the engine generally runs well.
Stumbling when you step on the gas but normal running at other times points to a transient lean condition (either fuel delivery problem or bad TPS).
Ignition misfires can be constant or occur at random with no pattern to the behaviour (cold damp conditions can make it worse).