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TNT longarm system (good or Bad??)

9

94xjkyle

NAXJA Forum User
Location
north-cali
im looking into gitting the TNT long arm kit but ive seen a few people with problems, like hitting the drive shaft, and too much droop. if you are running this kit and it works for you, what set up are you running as far as springs, bump stops, ext. and if you are running this kit and you are having some problems, what set up are you running?
 
To much droop? hmm
I run the 3rd gen. kit (the one currently in production) and absolutely love it. I run 8" of lift. Def. (imo) the best kit on the market, as far as durability and price.
 
94xjkyle said:
im looking into gitting the TNT long arm kit but ive seen a few people with problems, like hitting the drive shaft, and too much droop. if you are running this kit and it works for you, what set up are you running as far as springs, bump stops, ext. and if you are running this kit and you are having some problems, what set up are you running?
Click to expand...
Well mine is sitting the the garage waiting to be installed, but I've only seen one post about the problems you're describing. Don't get me wrong, I'm following that post with interest since I have yet to buy my springs, but with any kit, I think there is going to be some trial and error. I believe that TnT recommends between 4-6" of lift, and others have mentioned proper bump stops. I'll find out when I get there, but for now, two things impressed me about the kit and they are the beefy integrated cross member and transfer cas skid plate, and the high clearance long arms. People with other kits complained about the inside of the tires rubbing on the LA, and that they hang down too low and get caught on rocks; this kit addresses both those issues.
 
don't get me wrong, i think it's the best kit out there, i seem to be the only one with this prob, when i find out why the yoke hits, i'll post it up.
 
I previously had RE Drop Brackets with RE's 5.5in kit, and while it did a decent job it just does not compare to www.TnTCustoms.com Y-Link kit... Bob has desgined a great kit, and cut NO corners. Plus it's a hell of a price for what you get... I've beat the heck out of mine and love it...

Too much droop = Limiting strap

I have had no problems with clearance issues [driveshaft, or anything else].

Here are the specs:

'97 XJ 'Country'
4.0L/AW4/242
D30/C8.25
RE 5.5 lift
33's

DSCN6232.jpg


DSCN6258.jpg


108_0833.JPG

Justin - JrsXJ98

108_0830.JPG

Terry - MMIXJ

DSCN6276.jpg


DSCN5689.jpg


Will.
 
Bolting on any long arm suspension with long travel shocks ect. will require *tuning* to work correctly at full potential. Yes it is safe to say T&T should angle their upper arm mounts less to give a bit more pinion yoke clearance but I know exactly why its like that.

Take the time to set it up right and it will work right.
 
I really like the TnT setup and eventually go to it. Here is my reason: It's a bolt on kit. I know alot of people prefer to have a weld on kit but for me I think of it this way. If you roll your rig and total it, you can remove bolt on parts. I know you can do it with weld too but it makes sense to me for the bolts. That is the one of the few attractions to me....If I grenade one rig, I can swap parts into another and rebuild.
 
jrsxj98 said:
To much droop? hmm
I run the 3rd gen. kit (the one currently in production) and absolutely love it. I run 8" of lift. Def. (imo) the best kit on the market, as far as durability and price.
Click to expand...

How did you achieve 8" with this kit? spacers, new shakles, springs?
 
The Y linkis the ONLY front arm kit that give you better ground clearance than stock, and a built in 1" TC drop at the same time, all others cost you an inch or more.

Im going to be putting them on the 01 I am building currently, with RE 5.5 springs and custom spring perches, should net me around 7" with big off road 6" leafs in the rear with JKS boomerang shackles.
 
I'm running the BOR and JKS shackle combo right now, which is a 4.5" leaf pack, and I'm getting around 7" of lift, so you might want to consider getting some 5" leafs instead for your lift, xjnation. Definately not SPOBI
 
xjj33p3r said:
I'm running the BOR and JKS shackle combo right now, which is a 4.5" leaf pack, and I'm getting around 7" of lift, so you might want to consider getting some 5" leafs instead for your lift, xjnation. Definately not SPOBI
Click to expand...

thanks for the note...I fi gured as much, I will probably be taking out one do the intermediate lower leafs for flex and height
 
TRON said:
How did you achieve 8" with this kit? spacers, new shakles, springs?
Click to expand...

I run the Rusty's 6.5" coils w/3/4" spacer and Rusty's 6.5" STS leafs with 1.5" shackles.

Picture_0064.jpg
 
I am strongly leaning toward this TnT kit, looks like real good stuff. But I have two questions about it, as I'm no suspension engineer:

#1- Does it twist the axle tubes like a torque tube? When one side is stuffed, and the other drooped, it seems that it would be twisting the axle tubes, or displacing a lot of bushing material.


#2- Why would you want the built-in 1" Tcase drop? With a sye and proper driveline, why would you want that drop? Doesn't that make the front angle a bit steeper?
 
CameronB said:
I am strongly leaning toward this TnT kit, looks like real good stuff. But I have two questions about it, as I'm no suspension engineer:

#1- Does it twist the axle tubes like a torque tube? When one side is stuffed, and the other drooped, it seems that it would be twisting the axle tubes, or displacing a lot of bushing material.


#2- Why would you want the built-in 1" Tcase drop? With a sye and proper driveline, why would you want that drop? Doesn't that make the front angle a bit steeper?
Click to expand...

The system uses the large johnny joints on the frame end and the torgue arm to lower arm joint to alleviate the tendancy to want to twist the axle

dsc01983.jpg


Why would you not want to drop the TC if it did not affect the final BOA (break over angle) Most newer XJ's do much better with a TC drop with this you get it and better clearance still
 
CameronB said:
#2- Why would you want the built-in 1" Tcase drop? With a sye and proper driveline, why would you want that drop? Doesn't that make the front angle a bit steeper?
Click to expand...

you are correct with the front shaft angle.

And I will ask the same question..why would you want a t-case drop? It may still have the same or better crossmember clearance (in this case), but your t-case is still hanging 1" lower...which is still a deal to be looked into.

xjnation said:
The system uses the large johnny joints on the frame end and the torgue arm to lower arm joint to alleviate the tendancy to want to twist the axle
Click to expand...

huh? Those have nothing to do with twisting the axle tube. The lower arm joint will allow THE ENTIRE ARM to twist in relation to the body, but it will not flex comared to the "upper" arm or axle...unless bushings are getting smushed up.
 
gearwhine said:
you are correct with the front shaft angle.

And I will ask the same question..why would you want a t-case drop? It may still have the same or better crossmember clearance (in this case), but your t-case is still hanging 1" lower...which is still a deal to be looked into.



huh? Those have nothing to do with twisting the axle tube. The lower arm joint will allow THE ENTIRE ARM to twist in relation to the body, but it will not flex comared to the "upper" arm or axle...unless bushings are getting smushed up.
Click to expand...

Id say 80% of newer xj's using the 231 and lifted 4.5" or more need the 1" TC drop , the tnt cross member builds it in to decrease the rear DS angle, the new cross member also includes an intregral TC skidplate

Ive seen it work and yes the rubber bushings do get used (that is why they are there), And Im nota suspension engineer either, All I know is seeing it work, it appears to out perform any other radius arm setup.
 
why do you need the drop if you have an sye. not saying there is anything wrong with the kit, just that it can be corrected w/ the sye and the drop isnt needed. if your springing for long arms why skimp out on the driveline too
 
What if you run the driver's side upper arm attached, but not the pass side upper?
I guess that wouldn't work because you'd have to have something to keep the pass side lower arm from rotating.... maybe you could build a 'slip-joint' (like on your front driveline) into your pass side upper arm. It seems that that could prolong bushing life, and maybe bracket longevity. I don't know if you could ever twist a tube out of the pumpkin...

Just some thoughts
 
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