Rear Main Seal - Am I screwed?

[iispms]

I am in the middle of replacing the rear main seal on my 6 cyl XJ. Per the instructions, I am to tap out the upper half of the seal, grab it by pliers and pull it out.

Well, when I was tapping it out, I somehow broke off a pea size piece of the block on the outside of the seal. I am going to try and take a picture of it, but can't at the moment.

Is there anyway to fix this? Like I said, it is on the fly wheel side of the seal. The F&$*@!G seal is still in there and will not come out!!! I am afraid that if I put everything back together, it will still leak.

Any advise?

[Matthew Currie]

A couple of thoughts: First, try finding a piece of 1/8 inch brazing rod, and cut it to about 4-6 inches, and use that as a drift to punch out the remaining seal. It won't gouge the crankshaft, and will still be stiff enough to give the seal a push, but it will conform a bit to the curve as it goes in.

If necessary, you might have to loosen all the main bearings a tiny bit to let the crankshaft down and reduce the pressure on the seal.

As for the chip in the block, my guess is that it's going to be a problem, but a dab of RTV silicone might work. There's little to lose. There's a black variety of RTV that's used for filling the gaps in multi-piece oil pan gaskets. I'd try that.

[ECKSJAY]

If it's not super high-temp like an exhaust manifold couldn't you just clean it up real well (with alcohol) and fill it with JB Weld or similar steel epoxy? If it's not for strength, high temps, or involving motion I'd think it would work. Of course that requires it being down another day, but when cured you could sand or file it flat.

[iispms]

I am not sure of you consider the block wight by the crank high temp or not. I will try something like that.

This is my 3rd car, so I am not worried about it being down a little. I just don;t want to put another motor in it.

Thanks for your help!!

[ECKSJAY]

Originally posted by iispms
I am not sure of you consider the block wight by the crank high temp or not. I will try something like that.


Well I think JB Weld gives out at like 900 degrees or something...so I don't think you're going to get that hot there. I could be wrong though. :D

Good luck!

[iispms]

Okay, I got that all taken care of. But I have another question.....is there a seal that goes on the pillar block between the oilpan? There is a channel there, but I can't seem to find the seal. I might be imagining things, but i can swear I thought there was one there. I cannot find any reference to it!!!!!!!!!!!

[ECKSJAY]

Are you talking about part of the oil pan gasket?

[iispms]

i feel like a dumbars.......I found a new one when I opened the gasket box....

Monday's are wonderful!!!!

[ECKSJAY]

Originally posted by iispms
i feel like a dumbars.......I found a new one when I opened the gasket box....

Monday's are wonderful!!!!

:D

Don't be so hard on yourself. :D As we used to say in the MP's..."We don't get lost...just temporarily disoriented!"

[Kejtar]

"We don't get lost...just temporarily disoriented" love that line.... I think I'm gonna use it :D (I never get lost!)

[iispms]

Wait till my wife hears that!!!!

[Pavel3979]

I have Cherokee 93 with rebuilt engine with 20k miles. First 10k miles didn't leak, then rear main started to leak. My mechanic replaced rear main about 7 times, replaced also oil pan. Rear main still leaks. He said that crankshaft is worn. I don't know what to do. Engine is still under waranty.

[Yucca-Man]

Replaced seven times?? There's a good chance the crank is worn, and you can replace the RMS with an offset seal - but your mechanic should have known that well before now.

[riverfever]

I'm sure the offset seal is similar to the double lip seal. Might wanna try that before you go gettin' crazy.

[lawsoncl]

Lst time I had a mechanic replace a rear main seal (had my arm in a cast at the time and didn't want to mess with it), it leaked worse afterward and the mechanic kept blaming everything but himself. Anyway, I redid the rear main myself a month later. NOt only did the jerk neglect to put all of the oil pan bolts back in, but he only replaced the upper half of the rear main seal - it was black rubber and the bottom half was brown rubber. He had also chipped out a 3/16" chunk of the back side of the bearing cap. I'm guessing he couldn't get it out either and gave up. Since the chip was on the back side, it didn't leak afterwards, but I still puit a little RTV there to fill the gap.

[Pavel3979]

Thank you guys a lot. My mechanic told me that diferent rear main seal then original doesn't exist. If you tell my where to buy it I will be very happy. Thank you.

[riverfever]

From a response by 5-90:

Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000
4.0L

[Yucca-Man]

Thank you guys a lot. My mechanic told me that diferent rear main seal then original doesn't exist. If you tell my where to buy it I will be very happy. Thank you.This is coming from the same "mechanic" who replaced the rear main seven times!! - get your Jeep back from that guy and never, ever take it back there again. You're in Denver; take the Jeep over to Astro Automotive and get it fixed right or do it yourself...post it up on the Colorado forum and you'll probably get a hand or two as well.

[AlabamaDan]

From a response by 5-90:

Fel-Pro P/N BS40612, Double Lip Rear Main Crankshaft Oil Seal, 1987-2000
4.0L

I'm researching doing my rear main. Why wouldn't you just go to the double lip in the first place?