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CPS Swap

Cottontail

Three-De Off-Road
Location
Nashville, TN
How hard is it to change out the CPS on the bellhousing of a 1991 XJ at home?

It looks dang near imposible due to the location. It is at the shop already, would I be better off just letting them do it, or try to get it home to do it myself?

Thanks.
 
I used a 10", 6", and 3" extensions with a u-joint. All it takes is a little patience. Take the upper bolt off first and put it on last, reduces the chance of dropping it down the opening.
 
Panama XJ said:
I did it yesterday take me 1 hour of patience, 11 mm socket, 3" ext, 8" ext, 12" ext, 3/8 rachet, U joint and smalls hands. Do not forget a good light.

As above, but the third time I did it it only took about 20 minutes. I found the best combo to be a couple of long 1/4 inch extensions with the u-joint near the middle. Top and bottom bolts like a slightly different combination, so have a whole arsenal of extensions on hand to choose from. Good light is of utmost importance, so make sure you have light both above and below.

When you get a new one, it comes with a plastic dust shield that snaps into the bellhousing. Use the shield if there isn't one already in there, because it helps to retain the CPS while you're installing it, and also helps to avoid the possibility of dropping a bolt into the bellhousing. Expect to switch between above and below a few times. A magnetic retainer in the socket is helpful too, but if you don't have one, stick a little piece of paper or plastic into the socket so the bolt head doesn't fall out.

And finally, don't forget to route the wire correctly, despite the inconvenience, because you sure don't want to have to do this job a second time when the wire melts on the exhaust manifold!
 
Hi fellas, I'm a newbee who doesn't know much about cars....

Anyhow, I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport. A few weeks back I drove it around in a very heavy rainstorm, and it ran fine. Anyhow, the next day I went to try and start it, and my engine cranked over, but it wouldn't start. My odomoter displayed a "no bus" error, and none of my gauges worked. Today I just read about a guy who had a similar scenario, so he unplugged the CPS and got his gauges to work. So, I did the same thing, and got my fuel and battery gauge to work, and the "no bus" error went away (check engine light stayed on though) I'm pretty pumped that it's not my computer........but now to the next step.

What is my best route to change the CPS? Should I buy a Chilton's and try it myself. I do not know much about it, but figure that I'll try it out (to save some coin). Or is there a way for me to clean the plugs and not have to change the CPS? Sorry for the long post, but I really want to fix this thing........as cheap as possible. Thanks Guys.
 
You'll want:

7/16" Universal socket (a shorty socket with the universal joint inbuilt)
24-30" of extensions (I got lucky and found a 30"x3/8" rod a while ago.)
A good flashlight.
Some patience.
Extensible "magnet-on-a-stick"
Some grease

NOTE - if you have a Dremel or similar, I've posted elsewhere about notching the CPS bracket to simplify future replacement. I've got this down to about 10 minutes now.)

Use the socket to remove the two bolts retaining the CPS. As you are about to remove the two bolts, reach up there with the magnet to grab them so you don't lose them down the bellhousing (or you're in for quite a bit more work.)

If you are going to notch the new CPS bracket, you can install the bolts, leaving about 3/8" of the shank exposed to give yourself a target (believe me, it's a LOT easier this way!) Either way, you'll pack the socket with grease, then press the bolt into the packed socket. The grease will help the bolt stay in the socket until the threads bite.

Pull the wiring up and reconnect after the sensor is bolted down.

I don't have the picture of the notched CPS handy - but it's here somewhere and should be available at my JeepPower group - groups.yahoo.com/group/JeepPower (I'm on my way out the door right now...) for your perusal. By notching the bracket, it is possble to only loosen the bolts and "turn" the sensor on and off the bolt shanks, without having to fully remove the bolts (that's the extra 10 minutes I save.)

5-90
 
OK, I must have done it the hard way this weekend. Disconnect the the rear drive shaftway, and lower the cross member about 8 inches. This will allow you to see it clearly with a flashlight. I also removed the shifter boot and cover plate to get some of the bolts from the top.
 
Just exactly how many bolts DID you take out? You said "some of the bolts", just curiuos.
 
There just two 11m bolts holding it in on the left upper side of the bellhousing.

However I had to loosen another bolt at the top of the bellhousing because it was holding somekind of bracket that was covering the second bolt.
 
Oh, that clears things up. I ws just wondering, since I know a few people that get carried away with taking things apart.
 
Excellent, thanks for the information I really appreciate it. One other thing, if I have a Chilton's manuel from 1984-1996 would it be the same if I used it on my 2001 Jeep Cherokee? I looked online and noticed that Haynes had the dates from 1984-2001 in the same manuel. I wasn't sure if they are the same or not, but I would appreciate the info.

Also, where do you reccommend that I buy a Crankshaft positioning sensor? Thanks guys.
 
I'm not familiar with the ignition electrics on the 2001, but...you might want to confirm that you not getting a spark before you go though the trouble of replacing the CPS.
 
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daddyphatsacs said:
How so? Do you mean by checking my spark plugs?
By getting a spark tester, cost about $5.00
 
Last edited:
Langer1,

I believe the '01 has a dist-less, multi-coil doo-hickeys kind of ignition. :D

Might need two of those $5 babies.
 
Thread Hijack!

Is the CPS considered a regular interval PM replacement item? or is it a replace when failed?

If PM item, how often and estimate how much $$$

Thanks,
Tom
 
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