• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

4.6 is eating belts!!!

I

INI SLDR

NAXJA Member #1347
Location
Williamsburg, VA
I just built my stroker about 6 months ago and installed the wrong cam. Just this last weekend I swapped it for the right cam and it runs much better. Problem is that the bolt that pulls the vibration damper onto the crank started to strip out. I cleaned up the threads on the bolt and in the crank as well as opening up the hole in the damper a little bit so it wasn't so tight. I thought I had it on all the way but as it turns out the pulleys are not aligned and now its eating my belts up thread by thread.

Is there any other way to press the damper on the crank in the vehicle without drilling and tapping to the bext size? I know enough not to beat it on with a hammer although it was tempting... Tapping it out in the vehicle means either jacking the motor off its mounts to get clearance for a drill or removing the bumper along with the radiator etc. There must be a way to do this...without surgery.

Has anybody ever noticed a difference in the threads between the stock crank and the 258 crank?

94 4dr
aw4
 
No diff in threads, but the OEM bolt should not be used for re-assembly. Get a harmonic damper installer stud and nut. You thread it all the way in to the crank and then use the nut to press the HD on.

Curious, which cam did you have, and which did you go to?



INI SLDR said:
I just built my stroker about 6 months ago and installed the wrong cam. Just this last weekend I swapped it for the right cam and it runs much better. Problem is that the bolt that pulls the vibration damper onto the crank started to strip out. I cleaned up the threads on the bolt and in the crank as well as opening up the hole in the damper a little bit so it wasn't so tight. I thought I had it on all the way but as it turns out the pulleys are not aligned and now its eating my belts up thread by thread.

Is there any other way to press the damper on the crank in the vehicle without drilling and tapping to the bext size? I know enough not to beat it on with a hammer although it was tempting... Tapping it out in the vehicle means either jacking the motor off its mounts to get clearance for a drill or removing the bumper along with the radiator etc. There must be a way to do this...without surgery.

Has anybody ever noticed a difference in the threads between the stock crank and the 258 crank?

94 4dr
aw4
Click to expand...
 
I did not know about the stud and nut used to pull on the damper, maybe I can salvage the threads in the crank, worth a shot. When I built the motor I got a comp cam for power from idle to 2k+. Turns out they sent the cam for an older 258 carb motor. The motor ran like crap until it warmed up and then just ran rough in general with a lot of valve noise. I ordered a cam from clifford and got one ground for an EFI motor. Helped out a lot with the cold start and all but eliminated the valve noise. Just put it in so I havent romped it yet. Going to get a tank of gas through it and change the oil and then take her to the post!!! Yee Haa!!!
 
You mentioned your pulleys not lining up...

Which crank did you use for the stroker...

the short or the long 258 crank?

Did you shorten the crank or use a spacer?
 
Go to the hardware store and buy some grade 8 bolts the same size as the harmonic balancer bolt, but longer. I use two, probably an inch, and 1/2 inch longer, along with some thick grade 8 washers. You can pull the balancer on with these, and they will clean up the threads also.

Sorry I don't remember the sizes and thread counts.

Fred
 
I found out that the bolt is a 1/2 x 20 x 1 1/4. The crank is the long snout version and I had an engine shop "trim" it for me. He ended up taking it to a bench grinder and butchering it. He carried it to the truck with his hand covering the end so I could not see what he had done until I got home, the bastid. Since the original bolt was a grade 5 I am wondering if it was meant to strip the bolt before damaging the threads in the crank. Napa has the 1/2 x 20 in stock so I just need to run down and see if that will pull it on. If not I guess I need to order a tap for the next size up which is 9/16 and the 33/64 drill bit. Of course nobody has the sizes you need in stock. We'll see how far I get on a half chewed drive belt.

Thanks fo the help guys...
 
Just as an update I found out it is true that the bolt is grade five to protect the threads in the crank. Got a new bolt ( grade 8 ) and was able to pull the damper on all the way with little fuss after cleaning the threads with a tap. Didn't have to remove the radiator or anything. The tap was just short enough. Thanks guys.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
RE CONTROL ARM DROP BRACKETS?
Replies
8
Views
1K
EastonTexas
E
T
1 Ton steering clearance issues
Replies
9
Views
849
XJChang
X
S
All D30 lockers the same?
Replies
9
Views
470
RCP Phx
R
J
Cranks, Fires, Dies - 1991 Briarwood Restoration
Replies
17
Views
3K
Jam Master Jay
J
V
Suspension advice
Replies
18
Views
2K
Evan03
E
Back
Top