shackles and spacers

I just bought 2'' shackles made by rough country and 2'' poly spacers off of ebay, and I am excited to put on my quick BB to get my toyo at 31'' tires outta the garage, before i build up to the 4.5'' that I want and eventual 33's. i read all around here about lift questions and stuff, but is there anything else i should be expecting when installing this budget boost? I plan on spraying wd-40 on my stock shackle housing to get it loose for the install, but i am still shaky on the installation process... jack points, technique, how to put the spacers in etc. pics and any imput or info would be awesome... thanks...

Support the vehicle by the frame with jackstands. Remove the font springs by disconecting the lower spring retainer clip and disconecting the front shocks at the bottom for maximum axle droop. You may need to use a pry bar to remove your springs. Re-install coil with spacer on top. Re-install spring retainer clip and lower shock mount. Prior to the rear install soak your rear leaf bolts with PB Blaster or other penatrating lubricant a few times a day starting a few days prior to your install.(Makes bolt removal much easier)plus the rear shackle bolt is welded in the frame and you dont want to risk damaging it by wrenching on it to hard. Once the bolt is removed install your shackles double check tightness on all your bolts, wheels on and go have fun!

awesome... what I plan on doing is getting this lift on, then buying either a 3'' or 4.5'' with full leaf springs and new shocks and getting a SYE and putting it all together with 33''s... i could always go 3 or 4.5 without the SYE and the 2'' BB, then when i get the SYE, put the 2'' ontop of all of that. Thanksfor the help

Since your hear in Mass plan on the bolts in the back of the rear spring to sget stuck in the bushing and also the bolts on the top of the shackles. Start spraying everything a week or tow before your planning on doing the job. Be prepared to use a torch to cut of the shackles and get the bolts out of the sleeve.

As said before, jackstands on the frame and put a floor jack under the axle on which ever end your working on so it doesn't just drop down when you get everything apart.

ANTI-SIEZE ON EVERYTHING. The gold stuff works better than the silver stuff. It will make it much easier when you go put the new leaf packs in later on.

Its easiest to get your front springs out by unbolting your lower control arms in addition to the shocks. I should also point out that you can run 31's on a stock suspension if you want to put them on while you wait for your bolts to soak. Your longer shackles may also tilt your pinion up enough to cause rear driveshaft vibrations, and you may need angled shims to correct it.

look into longer shocks? the rear shocks will be too short with a 2" increase in ride height...

here is yucca-man's BB install...
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/jeeplift.html

I'm slightly confuzed by the "shackle bolt welded to the ...." comment.

as a major DIY-er I was wondering, why would jeep permanently fasten a leaf spring bolt to the frame? especially when the leaf spring sits up into a sleeve type thingy.

did the author mean nut? instead of bolt?

Ah good catch I did mean nut. Me not to smart

everywhere else i read said that 2'' would be enough to accomodate stock shocks... and also putting 31's on stock suspension will cause rubbing and easy tire rippage...

I was able to use my stock shocks with a 2" boost, but you will get better flex (more droop) if you get new ones.I ended up swapping in YJ front shocks and I think I used f150 shocks in the rear but not too sure what year, I went the cheap monroe route(like $10 each or so). I ran this for about 8mos till I lifted more and it worked well for 31s.
as far as tire scrubbing,just get bumpstops, I used hockey pucks in the front and extended the rears using spacers.

For the rear shackles I found it was easy to put them on when:
Jack the vehicle up, put it on jackstands, unbolt your shackles, put the top shackle bolt in, put a floorjack under your axle, put a bottle jack on top of the rear of your leaf, and line up the lower shackle bolt holes to install the bolt.

For the front couil spacers I had to use coil compressors I rented from AutoZone, I thought they were safe and sped up the process a little. I couldn't get enough droop out of my axle to put in my spacers and springs.

i was going to do the same to mines(91 limited,4.0,auto,242)with the shackles and spacers ,but, after 1 broken wrench and 3 skinned knuckles i gave up and just threw my tires on(31x10.50 bfg's onstock ltd rims )and except for minor rubbing at full lock they be just fine.maybe next week i'll try less beers and more actual work and get everythin installed.

i just dont wanna rip a tire while im avoiding running over a neon

well i didnt run over a neon but i did do the tire swap at my buddys pick a part yard and after i was done i did get to take a spin in the sand pit and like i said just some minor rubbing at full lock,maybe a little on the flares,but who cares about flares? im losing mines as soon as i stop drinkin,as well as doing my budget boost(lol).btw, in my opinion a stock cherokee is the way to go, just disconnect the sway bars and have some fun!i'm only doin the bb cuz my wife says it aint as high as the old bronc(even tho its been thru way more!)

ChandlerXJ said:

awesome... what I plan on doing is getting this lift on, then buying either a 3'' or 4.5'' with full leaf springs and new shocks and getting a SYE and putting it all together with 33''s... i could always go 3 or 4.5 without the SYE and the 2'' BB, then when i get the SYE, put the 2'' ontop of all of that. Thanksfor the help

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ahh the dreaded inchitis..

Few thoughts here ..
I remember doing my BB and it was a pain in the arse..
everthing went wrong .. just take your time and dont try and rush it..

On the rear
those bolts on the stock shackles are a royal pain..make sure you use PB blaster like 4 times a day for about three days prior
I would suggest having a breaker bar ready..
and getting the holes to line up after you put em on can be a nightmare
If you can borrow a engine hoist to lift the entire back of the jeep it will help tremendously..
crap there like $120 new around here..A great investment (specially when you go to do the front )

anyways just loosen BOTH the bolts first , and then take em off ...dont get one looose and then remove it..

pretty straight forward..
while you are under there ...you might as well take off the rear swaybar if you have one..really dont need this thing..but dont throw it out ..

Ya might want the two ends for a shock mount later (not gonna get into bar pin eliminators for now)

the front OMG!!


took me like 8 hrs to do this

first off
Yes if you let the whole axle droop down it will help out tremendously
actually its the best way.. IMO ......but once again
you will need to lift the entire front end of the jeep high, to do this..
see this pic and you will understand



anyways it will save youi ALOT of time and frustration doin it this way
b
BUT you will have to unhook the track bar from the axle..
brake lines will have to be unbolted from the callipers
shocks also will have to unbolted
and lower control arms
all this so the axle will go down low enough for the install to be easy

if you do this the coils and spacer will go right up into the mounts..

couple of notes
brake line are held on to the unibody by torx head screws
remove and straighten the line out and reinstall with self threading screws
at this point .. at full flex with the sway bar off a BB youi could snap a line if you dont
front swaybar also has torx head bolts

Buy a set of torx head drives .. bout $12 at checker or harbor freight
you will need them for as long as you own the jeep
If you do it this way you can do both sides at the same time ..

the spacers sometimes dont wanna go over the lip on the pole that comes down form the the coil mount
might have to grind that lip down a bit..
and use a twisting motion and a dead blow hammer to get it up there
or not ..depends on the inner diameter of the coil spacer(some are a little bigger than others)

another note
if you disconnect BOTH the lower control arms, the axle has a tendency to roll out of position( I had to use a comealong and some muscle to get the holes to line up later..PIA)

If you decide do do the jack stand method YOU WILL NEED THE SPRING COMPRESSOR.. they suck.. their hard to use .. they slip around ARGGGGG!!]
and turning those long bolts without a impact gun will take forever..

thats all I can think of right now cause its late
hope I didnt scare ya to much :laugh3:

Like I said the first time it took me about 8 hrs!!

didnt have the right tools and ....yada .... yada ....yada

now If some one asked me to do it for them ....it would prolly take me bout 2 hrs
and thats stopping to talk and bull crap around :exclamati

good luck
and welcome to DIY

Great advice from Vegas. I also live in the salt / winter zone, so you can't use too much PB Blaster - just keep pooring it on.

Here are some usesful links:

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Budget_Lift.htm

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

http://home.att.net/~benmlee/driveline/U-JOINT.htm

http://4wheeldrive.about.com/gi/dyn...jeep/cherokee/99/02_feb/shackle/shackles.html

FWIW - I did the same lift except for using an RE AAL instead of the shackles. The right shackle may interfere with your exhaust, so you might have to bend the exhaust tip out of the way.

Highmiles said:

The right shackle may interfere with your exhaust, so you might have to bend the exhaust tip out of the way.

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dang I forgot that one :exclamati


kudos

highmiles :laugh3:

thanks for the info, pics, and links guys... means alot to me! I don't think my exhaust will be a problem because I have a new custom duel tailpipe exhaust and the two tailpipes are more towards the middle of my bumper, not the outside. If i were to buy shocks for a 3-4.5'' lift with this 2'' BB would they work, or be too big?

i think i might just call endangered species jeep tommrow and see how long it would take them to put it on... 50 bucks an hour w/ free tire alignment and i wont have to deal with lifts or jacks or my jeep falling apart...

ChandlerXJ said:

the two tailpipes are more towards the middle of my bumper, not the outside.

Click to expand...

your pretty limited to where the stock tail pipe runs along the frame rail, anymore "to the center" and your dealing with gas tank..
a word of advice about your tail pipe ( and to anyone considering a custom or aftermarket tail pipe ) keep the outlet close and tight to the vehicle if you plan to wheel the vehicle at all. many times i've seen pipes act as a "shovel" if you get on a steep ledge and have to back off of it cause you cant go up it. the tail pipe just digs in and wraps around under the axle and ruins your custom set-up. i had a custom tail pipe bent to run right close up to the frame rail and ends right at the shackle.
just some "food for thought" so you dont waste $$ on something you may tear up in the future.