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Emergency, Motor Mounts sheared, jeep is hurtin

Powderhound

NAXJA Forum User
Hey guys-
Driving up a dirt road last night and POP. Fan blade starts hitting the frame rail. I shut it off immediatly The whole drivetrain had shifted. I couldn't get to reverse as the linkage is all off. Driver side motor mount okay. Passenger side broke. Worse off, it broke the ears off the engine where the bolts come into the block. So, all three ears have sheared off the block at the passenger side mount. The transmission mount broke at the cross member too.
I pulled the drivelines and strapped the transfer case to the cross member. Then I got back down the hill coasting, with the engine off.
So now, I'm going to put it on the trailer with a buddy. Now I'm not sure what to do. I can fix the transmission mount, but what about bolting the motor to the frame? Has anyone ever had this happen?
1991 2 door sport with 3" rancho kit +1.5" coil spacers. Shackles along with the AAL in back. 31x10.50's. Straight six 5 speed.
I'm going to take it to the shop tomorrow. I'm not sure what to do? Do I need a new block now? Is it possible to fix at all? Can parts be fabbed here? I'm going to start researching, just wanted to get the question out here.
Any ideas would be appreciated. Worse off I just picked up dodge dakota leaves to make new packs yesterday! Now I might be buying a new motor. Thank you NAXJA members, I really need the help at the moment....
 
I had it happen once. I screwed a stud in what was left of the hole. I flame heated the cast and then welded the stud in using a DC welder with the polarity flipped and high nickel content rod. It is not for beginners but it can be done.
 
old_man said:
I had it happen once. I screwed a stud in what was left of the hole. I flame heated the cast and then welded the stud in using a DC welder with the polarity flipped and high nickel content rod. It is not for beginners but it can be done.
Sounds like a winner.
 
Thats wierd that the passenger side went... The drivers side usually takes the blunt of the torque... The passenger side only gets it when you go in reverse. Were you going in reverse at the time ?
 
My passenger side mount sheared all the bolts in the block too, had to back them out and replace along with a fan shround. Mine did it going over RR tracks. JP
 
I JUST came in from the garage after changing my driver's side mount, it let go on my last wheeling trip and let the fan contact the rad. I've never had a problem with the passenger's side but this is the second driver's side mount I've had to change.

BUT I did buy some parts from a guy a while back that had swapped a 350 Chevy into his XJ cause his passenger side mount had let go and the ears sheared off the block. That's one solution I guess!
 
I repaired a broken right side mount with a stud and epoxy (engine came from a totaled jeep). I have seen a fabricated mount with additional holes being used on the drivers side; don't remember if there are extra holes on the passenger side?
 
Yes, it happens to the jeepspeed racers, from boucing that heavy motor. The prevention is to make a custom mout that grabs more holes on the side of the motor. T&J's makes one. Now that you have already broke it, you would have to see if the holes are repairable and then add this other mount or start with a fresh block then use the new mount.
 
It happens more than one would think.
Jack up motor, remove mount, remove as
many of broken bolts as you can, Old Man's
procedure is right on. Know of one XJ with
35s and locked running with two out of
three bolts on passenger side mount, two
seasons so far like this.
Good luck.
 
Thanks for the great advice guys, NAXJA is an amazing asset! Two out of the three holes were actually okay. I extracted the bolts from them and saved the threads. Not easy as there is very little room to move in there. A 90 degree drill came in real hangy. As for the broken ear(furthest hole to the front), I went with the nickel weld and it appears to be holding. I actully cut a grade 8 bolt and welded it in place for a stud. Then I got the mount and bracket in place. A bit of a hassle to line everything up, but got it done. Replaced the tranny mount with little trouble. Threw in new transfer case fluid as some leaked out when I pulled the drivelines.
I drove the jeep 150 miles today and nothing loosened up. Good ol' red locktite. Everything looks and feels great. Thank you again NAXJA memberes, your alwasys there in a pinch. I can't wait to bolt up my dakota packs and even out the jeep but I think I'll take a day or two off from wrenching!
 
I've got some experience with this. I broke my driver side twice and my passenger side once. The shop i took it to said that is was impossible to break them that many times..... but obviously its not. I drilled and easy outed the bolts out of the block all 3 times. Finally i installed some M.O.R.E. motor mounts and havn't had any problems. I suggest you do the same. If you need any more help just let me know.
James
 
my passanger side broke to when i was driving down a dirt road. i used a chain as a temporary fix to hold the motor up. till i got to by buddys shop. we took the motor mount out and used a engine hoist with a 90 degree drill and used a easy out.
 
I sheared all three passenger side mount bolts wheeling a couple weeks ago on my 95. I finally extracted them and replaced them with grade 8 3/8" coarse thread bolts. I used a pneumatic right angle drill (very small profile) and some extractors from the Mac Tools dude. Then I froze the remains of the bolt and out they came.
 
I had the same thing happen to my 95 (passenger side) :rattle: . Two bolts sheared, and the threaded area in the block for one bolt broke. I was able to get the screws out using a MIG welder, welding a blob on the visible part of the bolts, and then turning the bolt by grabbing onto that chunk of metal. FAR easier than drilling!
 
XJJack said:
Yes, it happens to the jeepspeed racers, from boucing that heavy motor. The prevention is to make a custom mout that grabs more holes on the side of the motor. T&J's makes one. Now that you have already broke it, you would have to see if the holes are repairable and then add this other mount or start with a fresh block then use the new mount.
Well ...

T&J does make one, and it's a significantly beefy unit. But ... it is SO new that they don't even know yet what they are going to charge for it. Rick at T&J told me they are thinking $350 -- that's just for the brackets, not including motor mounts. I told him I thought that was nuts. It does appear to be considerably stronger than stock -- covers a lot more real estate, and uses a lot more bolts. But it doesn't look to me like $350 worth of better. YMMV.
 
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